I’m finally getting somewhere on my RPP CP SD90MAC project (after 2 or 3 false starts). Figured I’d let everyone see what’s done so far. As always, comments and suggestions are more than welcome.
I installed the PPW etched brass steps and the grab irons. A little bit of touch up, then one more trip through the paint booth to do the top of the short & long hoods. Next step is decals and then Smokey Valley handrails and AMB Laserkit glazing. I’m waiting on a few parts: coupler lift bars, fans, frame details and some of the oddball grab irons. I already have the headlights, mu hoses, ditch lights, wipers and truck details, so at least I can keep busy at it for a while.
It’s a Rail Power Products shell & frame, that I picked up at a local show for $10, on Athearn SD40-2 power trucks. It’s got RPP HTRC sideframes & details. If you’re interested, they can still be bought at http://www.ppw-aline.com. At least until their stock runs out…
I also have a Kato undec. unit that I’ll be tackling once this one’s done. Gotta see how this one turns out…
If I can be so bold…your paint it WAY too thick. I would strip it, primer it and apply Soo Line Red with very THIN coats. Make sure you thin your paint before you airbrush it.
I paint for a local hobby shop here in Calgary and would be happy to help if you would like.
You may be right. It is my first major ground up project of this type, though I’ve been practicing with my airbrush for a couple of months now. It’s testors red that I’ve mixed so that it matches my Athearn AC4400s. I was more concerned with getting a close match to my exixting locos, rather matching the prototype. I thinned it to the consistency of milk before airbrushing, but it’s also 3 layers. I’m a little worried about stripping it again (it’s already been stripped twice). I’ve tried acryllic paints (didn’t like 'em) but I figured Testors gloss would work OK if I Dullcote it.
The paint doesn’t look too thick to me, (I am also a custom painter), I think the glossiness and the shine in the photo are to blame. I built a dozen of the RP SD-90s (actually I made CR SD-80s) and the body detail is not as fine as the Kato, so what may look like paint build up in the photos is just shallow detail.
BTW if anyone wants a challenge, I still have a half dozen of the kits (body and frame), email me.
The paint is definitely a little thick on the left hand side of the cab, right above the battery box door. It’s the one spot I had a little trouble with (got a bit overzealous there on the last coat). It is VERY glossy paint. I had to mess with the flash and settings just so you didn’t see a mini sun with red borders in the pictures.
And you are definitely right about the difference between the RPP shell and the Kato. Kato does a much better job, IMHO, of getting the details right. I also have an RPP Dash 8-40CW that’ll be painted in CN (IC) colors, but not before I do something about the cab. The center post on the windshield is a little over a foot wide (scale) at the bottom… but barely 6" at the top. Just doesn’t look right.
FLOQUEL paint all the way. I am not sure about the thickness unless I saw it. Other then that it looks good. Did you primer it? Did you airbrush on the red? If you decide to strip it send it to me, I’ll be more then happy to prime and spray it for you for free. Maybe a little dullcoat after the details are put on will make a huge difference. Keep up the good work.
Look how the paint “creeps” up to the level of the details…there should be a sharp edge, but alas, it is rounded.
I would strip the loco,
prime it,
base coat it (Soo Line Red…dont worry about matching your other locos…CP locos dont really match anyways),
gloss it,
decal it,
dull the decals,
then finish coat it (Flat, Satin or Gloss…your preference).
With these steps you will achieve factory finish every time. If you skip any of these steps, then you are painting it incorrectly. Make sure to ‘mist’ the air with water to remove all dust from the air.
David
PS…Modelmaker…Ill take you up on that challenge. Email me to get this started.
OK, I given it some consideration, and here’s the plan.
Since I need practice on just about everything involved in building these, and since I’m likely to screw up a few things down the line, I’m going to proceed with decalling it, partly for practice (I haven’t done it in at least a decade), and partly just to see how it turns out. Part of my problem is a lack of proper tools (I’m using an old Testors single action external mix airbrush), which I’ll resolve next trip to the LHS. It’s about 100 miles away, so, could be a week, could be a month… I’ll also get some good paint, primer and a few other quality materials.
I’m thinking that, for the actual cost in detailing parts (about $25, thanks to eBay) and the cost of another RPP shell ($10), I’ll continue this project as is, and once it’s complete, swing right into a second one, hopefully with better skills and better equipment.
My primary goals on this project are to “do it myself” and to develop a few skills that haven’t been used much since I was in my teens, so no matter how it turns out, the project will be a success, even if it’s not absolutely perfect.
David - your advice is definitely appreciated, and will more than likely be sought when I start the next painting project, particularly with regards to priming (which I’ve never done on any model…).
