Finally two trains at once!

Hooray for me!! After several false starts, and burning my hand on the soldering iron, I have finally wired the layout for multiple cab operation. Just don’t have the money right now to upgrade to DCC, so it was the old block concept. I got frustrated this afternoon when part of it didn’t work. After calming down and eating dinner, I finally figured out I had a loose rail connector. After fiddling with it, I treated it as another block and ran another set of wires to that section. This is my second layout and it was just as hard as it was 20 years ago. I can’t wait to upgrade to DCC, but until then I got what I got and I’m happy. Now just as soon as I am positive, this is the track design I want, I’ll have to solder those rail connections.

Anybody want to loan me $500 for a DCC and one engine? And be careful which end of the iron you grab. thats gonna leave a mark.

Congrats!!! Sounds like you’re all excited!

I just spent $600 on DCC and $250 on an engine, i’m broke now. But it’s DAMN COOL!!! (I’m as just as excited as you).

Have fun, save your pennies, you’ll get there!

Tug,

Hey, there ain’t nuttin’ wrong with enjoyin’ trains on DC. The important thing is that you’re runnin’ trains. [8D][tup]

Now that you pretty much have things wired up properly in DC, making the eventual jump to DCC can be as simple as:

  1. disconnecting your DC power supply from the track
  2. connecting up your DCC system to the track
  3. throwing your blocks switchers to open, and
  4. turning on your new operating system

Oh, and BTW: “Time heals all wounds” - even those caused be hot soldering irons. [:)]

Tom

Can’t wait until my boy gets up in the morning so I can show him. After all, its supposed to be his layout. I almost got him out of bed tonight.

On that loan better ask for more. I spent over a grand switching to DCC. But I’m happy now with it. By-the-way that iron will be needed when you switch to DCC.

Tug, what DCC system are you going with?

Not counting decoders (they do add up) my total cost for my Digitrax Super Empire Builder, power supply was $340.00. Then I got a Digitrax PR 3 and its power supply for $65.00 (PR 3 is for programing the easy way with Decoder Pro). So I am at a little over $400.00. I did not have to have the PR 3, but it sure makes programing easy.

Have fun and wear oven mitts. Cuda Ken

I plan on using NCE’s starter kit. Its only 150. When I go DCC, I will probably install a crossover to allow me to turn trains around, it was in the original plan but left out for now, so I can run DC easily. So add a reversing module, about 50-60. I expect i shall have to put a booster in somewhere, so add some more. Then I either have to purchase decoders, about 12 of them or new engines. Leaning towards new stuff as my current stuff is over 20 years old. I only plan to run at most 3 engines. That will make a very busy track. My father is currently installing NCE on his layout. I’m letting him spend money during his learning phase, so when I do mine this summer or fall, I can use his experience.

Why did I decide NCE? Because he did. He over analyzes everything, but once he makes a decision, he knows just what he wants and how to do it. I also like the way NCE displays the information on the screen, while digitrax’s display is limited. My father is a retired computer technician and programmer. He worked on avionics for Harriers at the local Marine base. This is the part of the hobby he really enjoys. And it scares me to death.

It seems to me the OP is doing it the hard way. If DCC is the holy grail, then read no further, BUT:

To run multiple trains all you really need is speed matched DC locomotives (pick a model you like and have more than one)–and no blocks, but power routing turnouts instead, so you can isolate engines on sidings when needed and throw the turnout–and the power is off.

OR

Alternatively, I’m using MTH engines and their DCS system. The DCS Controller, which is all you really need other than a power supply capable of 16 volt DC output, cost me all of $125.

Every single HO MTH locomotive will run with every single other MTH locomotive, perfectly, period. No blocks, no hassles, no rear end collisions.

John

I follow your idea,but I like the simplicity and control of DCC once installed. All the other stuff you describe cost money. I already had everything I used. I am currently out or work, and have been since December due to an injury at work. So my income has been drastically affected. So making that purchase is put off until I return to work either in April or May. I got 6 dollars in new wire and spade solder less connectors. Now that I got rains running, my next focus is learning how to weather rolling stock properly on my 20 year old cars before I get newer stuff.

Unless you have a huge home layout and/or a lot of power hungry DCC acessories, you probably will not need a booster. Just get some powershields from Tony’s to separate the layout ubtl power districts. Lote cheaper than a booster. [:D]

My Digitrax Zephyr cost me about $200 and another $100 got me a handful of DH123 decoders to install in my locos. The Zephyr has no problem providing power to all 75 to 85 feet of mainline and the 4 to 6 locos which inhabit my layout.

Although I am installing a power bus with 14 gauge wire, I currently run the layout with just two wires from the controller to the rails (and a couple of jumpers to handle dead areas).

-George

Tugboat95–

Best wishes for your job hunt, etc.

Regarding weathering–most people go way overboard and consequently devalue their models. If you look at real freight cars, unless they are totally trashed, the weathering is usually only very subtle. You can still have a glossy paint finish or semi-glossy and yet have fading, streaking, dust, etc. Most modelers go way overboard with the flat finish–it doesn’t have to be dead flat to look “real”. In fact, most real rolling stock does not have a dead flat finish (only those not painted for more than 20 years). A satin finish may be the best…

I know your joy, about 3 weeks ago I got a second CSX GP-38 and the fun of running two 10 car trains was great and even more fun running a 20 car MU set up. I just ordered an Atherarn CSX C44-9w from Modeltrainstuff.com and I think this will be the last engine until I go DCC, which I hope is real soon.

Hey, I hear your enthusiasm. I, too, thought DCC was too expensive, but then I scored an MRC Prodigy Express system for $90, some lower end decoders for $20-25 each, and paid my LHS $10 each to install decoders in some of my older, non-DCC ready locos. I was into DCC for less than $250.

You don’t have to jump in all the way. By a DPDT switch and you can switch back and forth from DCC to DC.

You need to explain that one to me. I thought that was why trains had engineers.

Hi!

I took down my 11x15 two level DC HO layout about 14 months ago, and began building a replacement that is similar, with the biggest change being DCC. I now have two main lines and one “sub-main” laid and wired. I can run two or three trains by myself, and the freedom of DCC is just amazing.

With the previous layout, I was more occupied in throwing block and reverse loop switches and had to “relearn” how to run the layout if I was away from it for a couple of weeks. With DCC, there is none of this of significance. I even had two grandchildren (5 & 10) each running a train and working the sounds - which is something that rarely happened with the DC layout.

I am NOT putting down DC, for it served me well for decades. And of course DCC has some downsides too - it can be expensive, and you can much more easily have collisions or “runaways” as opposed to DC operations. Yes, I say this from experience! Kind of scary having a $300 BLI loco heading towards a stopped P2K E7A/A consist!!!

No matter what, ENJOY !!!

Mobilman44

If you shop around you can find a Digitrax Zephyr for around $149. If you’re not worried for now about sound, regular decoders aren’t too expensive. Good decoders (I like TCS myself, easy to program) cost around $30 or less; some online dealers give you a discount if you buy five at the same time. Connect up one of your current DC power packs as a “jump throttle” and you’re running DCC and running two trains independently for quite a bit less than $500.

Of course, with the money you have left over, you could add a UT-4 walkaround controller and several plug-in panels for it if you wanted to. Remember most / all DCC systems are modular…you can buy an “all in one” starter unit like the Zephyr and add walkaround, wireless radio/infrared, signals etc. little by little over time if you want to.

When you go to DCC you will wonder how you ran the layout without it. I bought the CVP system with wireless control, there is nothing like walking with your train not having to think about where to plug in next. I had operated on layouts when you could get too many people in one area for the outlets available. It can be panic time when you realize that your train is moving into an occupied area without being under your control. My friend had CVP and I liked it.If we needed more controllers we could bring them to each others layouts. When I bought my system I over did it. More power available than I can ever for see using.

Save up and get the best available, you only have to spend the money once.

Have fun, I operated on DC block systems for many years.

Dave