i have a 15" radius curve (yes, 15) on my small layout. Eventually i plan on replacing the 15" curve with a peninsula have a wider radius curve.
i have a Reading I-5 2-8-0 which has four flanged wheels on both sides. It has problems on the 15" curve. I had thought that having such a small, short wheelbase (2.5") 2-8-0 would allow the tight curves (also fit better on my small layout). I also have a Reading B-8 0-6-0 which has a blind (unflanged) middle wheel that, not surprisingly, has no problems.
how difficult would it be to find blind replacement wheels for the 2-8-0? Does NWSL have locomotive wheels? How likely is it to find wheels on another model with correct diameter, axle diameter and crank-pin fitting?
how difficult would it be to file down the flanges?
I’m not going to tell you to change your radius…But I will tell you not to attempt to try to file down the flanges…Maybe if you had a Unimat lathe…You didn’t mention,who made the locos you have,are the 2-8-0 and 0-6-0 drivers the same size??I’m guessing they are…
not sure why it matters, the 0-6-0 drivers are 0.567", and the 2-8-0 drivers are 0.572. (according to prototype drawings, both locomotives have 50" divers).
i believe both are made by Olympia imported by Gem
I do not how else to tell you this,but it sure matter’s a lot,when you want to purchase,replacement drivers for them…I suggest you go to NWSL Web site and check to see,if they even have anything,that will fit,axle holes can be a different diameter and so forth,that’s why it helps to find out who made them…
It shouldn’t be all that difficult to remove the flange from a driver tire if you have a steady hand. I reduced the flange depth on the drivers of an early IHC 2-6-0, mainly for æsthetic reasons, using a cut-off disc in my Dremel.
To do so, the loco needs to be upright, and if possible, its motor shielded from the cutting residue. Connect power leads directly to the motor, and with the loco running at medium speed, very lightly, and at a slight angle, touch the edge of the cut-off disc to the flange which is to be removed. It might help to have your shop vac’s nozzle close to the cutting area in order to draw in as much of the cutting residue as possible, as you don’t want it getting into the motor, gearbox, or axle bearings.
Work slowly, and check the loco’s motor often to ensure that it doesn’t overheat. At least with a brass loco, you won’t need to worry about melting plastic driver centres, which could have been an issue with the IHC loco.
I can’t tell you what to do but turning down the flange of a flanged driver will not help your problem. I had to replace several un-flanged drivers with flanged drivers because the unflanged wheel would drop down between the rails on curves. Another thing is that flange-less drivers are wider than flanged drivers. Unless you add width just carving the flange off will still be the same width. Unless you do file these down underwater you may end up melting the insulating plastic under the tire.
Remember most HO brass use a 3mm axle and most US made HO use 1/8 inch and even 3/16. Your brass Gem will more than likely be 3mm. Greenway products has drivers but they are flanged. Maybe you can order plain wheels from them. https://www.greenwayproducts.com/
Pete makes a good point about the blind drivers being wider than flanged ones, something which helps to prevent those wheels from dropping on sharp curves. The fact that your loco is brass rather than a newer plastic offering also means that it’s likely built to closer-to-prototype dimensions than most plastic ones which generally allow more side-to-side play in the drivers than do brass steamers.
