A year ago I worked out a plan for my first effort at building a layout. I’d thought about starting for years but always felt intimidated because the idea of a room full of trains was just too complex. So, finally, I decided to start small, following the style of layouts often done in England. My goals were to gain skills in benchwork, laying track, ballasting, DCC operation/wiring, building structures, and detailing plus installing a decoder or two. Here’s where am now.
This is the 6 foot by 2 foot track plan to which I’ve since added 4 feet of staging at each end. I’ve made some changes in the arrangement of the buildings.
Here’s the general idea for the “stage” or “shadow box.”
This is looking from the east end looking west.
And, the east end looking west.
These are a little closer.
The Portland Terminal S-3 has my first decoder in it, a Lok Sound.
Next comes finishing a few background flats, detailing buildings, adding signs, road surfaces, weathering buildings and ballasting track. I have a few minor irritations in track work with my small diesels with my Peco code 75 track, turnouts and crossings that I hope to figure out. I’m talking to a friend who could paint a back ground for this urban setting.
Happy layout anniversary! You have given new meaning to the phrase “Quality over Quantity”…looks great! Regardless of the size, you have definitely capured “the feel” in my opinion. Jamie
Also, you have been a great forum poster. You have posted several excellent posts during the layout planning and building process - both on your track planning, building the shadow box, how to get the right 3D look, making cardboard placeholder buildings, and painting the buildings.
Too bad that the forum search function on the new forum software still doesn’t get posts older than september 2008 - I felt like going back to look at your older posts tonight to compare your finaly buildings with your cardboard mockup plans, and to see how the street with overpass look you were considering in one of your earliest posts turned out in the end.
Anyways - how about - when/if you can find the time - a wee description of how you selected andd kitbashed your urban buildings ? I recognize parts from several Walther’s Cornerstone, Walther’s Modular and DPM buildings, but you have created a very believable whole here.
Thank you for your reply. I’ll answer your questions.
I built the five small structures first. They are all DPM’s with no modifications. The three in the front all have the second floor install and the interiors will eventually be detailed. I’m using black photographers tape for a lot of my roofs. I cut it into strips about 30 scale feet long and then run them lengthwise with just a little overlap.
I built the REA freight station from Walthers next. The only minor modification I made was to cut out two loading doors so they look like they are open. I did the same on the other side so the viewer can see box cars or passing trains on the other side. I plan to light this building using micro led’s in gooseneck fixtures over the loading doors and hanging fixtures inside. The tall building next to it is the City Classics Ohio Street building It’s there to hide the entrance from the left staging area.
The building on the far right is from the Walthers Creamery collection. I wanted the east end to be at street level to represent the office part of the building. Eventually, the viewer should be able to look in an upper window and see the manager working at his desk by lamp light.
Behind it are two Walthers Heritage Furniture Buildings combined into one long structure. I started using black foam core board on this because I found the long plastic walls from the creamery to be more fragile than I liked. When the walls are reinforced with the foam core, they are really strong. Here’s a link to a Ken Spranza’s web site that I found helpful:
I’ve tried hot glue as he does and it works well. I’ve also used CA and it works as well. The furniture building still needs a foam core back so you can’t see through it. Another advantage to foam core for s
I kept referring back and forth to your pictures, looking up the building kits you used, and read Ken Spranza’s online clinic on using foamcore buildings with a veneer of brick styrene on the outside - brilliant concept!
I think I am also going to dig up my copy of GMR and look at the buildings Jerry (Strangarity, wasn’t it?) had on the city part of his Reading Railroad - I remember admiring that track plan and that urban scenery, too.
Your post (and Ken’s web site) are now in the favorites list in my web browser!
Thank you very much for taking the time to answer my questions!
I particularly enjoyed your modular industry building with the cut down office without a foundation. The Town is very well done, not garish or wild. Overall I think you did very well.
Now I will have to say it… where is the train? LOL. Just teasing in good spirit.
What a difference a year makes. I myself was just a loop of track on a bare carpet (Against all rules I know…) running a train a year ago.
Thats a great idea! I am using delta ceramcoat craft paint mostly and have trouble wiping off the mortar wash without getting into the paint underneath. I will give that a try on my next brick building after I have the brick color down. I use “red oxide” mostly, sometimes with a little black mixed in to bring the color down.
The dull coat has worked well. You can still rub through it but it takes more effort so the whole job is easier. I’ve used red oxide too. With the number of buildings I have, I want a little variation but not too much to make the whole thing looked chopped up.
Also, Last Chance asked where the trains are and that is a good question. I have made the bench work lower because of the track plan. If it was a 48" or higher, Last Chance is correct. You’d almost never see a train. Not to mention uncoupling would require a ladder! So with the lower bench work you have more of a birds eye view.
