I, like gilligan, am in the process of building my first layout. I have only laid a little track so far, but I am learning a few things. I am happy with my first track plan (sorry…no pics yet…I want to finish some more before I post them) but this come at the price of some sacrifice. First, my benchwork is 3 feet wide at some points which causes some headaches unless you are 7 ft. tall. Mounting switch machines under the table is by far the most aggrivating. I’ve set the turnout, marked where the hole in the throwbar is with a pen, lifted the turnout off, drilled a 1/4" hole, pinned the TO back down and got under the table with the machine, tested clearances for the pin, traced around the TO w/ pen, lifted it, put down glue, put the
TO back down, let the glue dry, and finally installed the switch machine to where I traced it on the underside of the table. WOW…what a pain. I’m using Peco twin coils (Mostly for $ reasons) with the extended pin. Under-the-table machines are great except for the fact that I can only have 1/2" foam on the base. As far as gluing down track…DON’T use the cheap acryllic latex caulk…use the clear latex w/ silicone added like Clear DAP. I had a major problem with it peeling right up. Third, if you have hidden staging, design benchwork around it. I knew this going into track planning and I’ve had to cut a few holes in the bench to reach under and up to clean track, but for real estate reasons I did it anyway. The best way is to design the bench for easy access. Fourth, check your progress as you go. I only have an old DC power pack to test with but even it is much needed. I decided not to modify my TOs as suggested by wiringfordcc.com, only placed insulators at the frog rails. I did buy an Atlas NS SD-50 to test my clearance between the stock and point before I made this decision though…no shorts…Peco makes a great TO. I haven’t made a Radio shack buzzer yet, but I have soldered feeders as I layed track. This allows me to hook up the DC pack
Since standing on my head under the benchwork is not my thing I worked out a simple, inexpensive linkage and moved all of my switch machines to the edge of the layout.
I also saw, in one of the hobby mags, where a modeler had modified an under-car creeper for use under his benchwork. I’m sure my local Pep Boys (or equivalent) has a suitable creeper to use for a starting point, but so far I haven’t needed it.
Look at the bright side. For every minute you spend under the benchwork, you can expect at least an hour of enjoyment on top of it - not including building time.
Chuck
You’ve got cramps, I’ve got ulcers [banghead]. As much as I tried to plan my layout on paper, the more frustrated I became. First problem, access hatches, boy what a pain…even at the ripe age of 41, they’re a pain. My second biggest problem are my structures. Most are pretty large which doesn’t leave much open space on my 7 by 12’ layout. I’ve added a fruit packing house and icing platform, boy they take up roooom! Problem is that I purchased many of my structures after completing the trackplan. The result, throw away the plan (I can now, the track is down) and “wing it.” In fact, I’m more creative on the fly than putting stuff down with pencil and paper [^]. Thanks for letting me get on my [soapbox] box.
Sounds like you’re having lots of “fun”. I’ve been using the Rix twin coil switch machines with good success. They are also realtively inexpensive but get the job done.
You may want to consider a capactive discharge unit for powering the switch machines. Gives a good solid snap to the machine and eliminates the chatter.
Tom
Sounds like you are doing pretty well. It is hard to learn until you do it and see what needs changing and why. I have switched to humpyard levers for my remote turnouts and caboose for the yards. The only advantage I have found with Tortise is the fun of toggle switches
Your lesson about access to hidden track is an often overlooked one. In my fits with hidden track on top of solid top layouts, I have concluded I will only have hidden track under one of 2 conditions.
-
If hidden track is on top of solid top benchwork, the track must be within 6 inches of layout edge, and there must be 5" high (preferably 6") access doors in fascia. Space above hidden track must be hollowed out to 6" high.
-
Preferred access to hidden track is open grid benchwork (at least in area of hidden track) with self-supporting plaster scenery shell at least 6" above hidden track.
Thank you for reminding me of these parameters as I design my next layout.
yours in solving problems in advance
Fred W