I’m starting the bench work for my first layout. It’s a L shaped 6’ x 8’ the “long” side is 36" deep the other side is 24" deep. For the bigger part I’m using this plan mirror flipped http://mrr.trains.com/~/media/Files/PDF/trackplans/2011/10/Southern%20Ry.%20Spartanburg%20Subdivision.pdf with a “industrial yard” I designed for the narrow part of the L I’m putting 1/2" ply on top of the bench and then planning on using pink foam. Will be laying flex track as well. My question is…is cork roadbed needed or can I glue the track directly to the foam? And what is the advantages of using or not using the roadbed? I’ll try to get a pic of the drawing and bench uploaded ASAP
For yards and siding you can glue your track right to the foam. For you main lines, put it on cork road bed. Gives it a good prototypical look.
Of course, it’s up to you, but if you have access to 1" or 2" thick pink foam, you don’t need the plywood. Or if you use the plywood, you don’t need the foam (just slice the plywood and use it to make grades and cut it out to make depressions).
The plywood/foam stack will prove much more difficult to drill through for dropping feeders than either one alone.
Most real-life main tracks are raised on a bed of ballast for better drainage – that’s what the roadbed represents. And most modelers find that main tracks look better on roadbed because it better resembles the real thing.
I agree with the above, you do not need both plywood and foam. I did use both on a small layout, but it was to be transported, so the plywood was to protect the bottom of the foam while in transit. If I were to do it again, I would only use 1/4" plywood or luan on the bottom. 2" foam is quite ridgid and will work well for a permenant layout with normal 16" to 24" on center support…
You may want to rethink your 36" deep part of the layout. Unless you are very tall with long arms, most recommendations are for a maximum of 30" reach. You can experiment with a piece of foam or cardboard set at the height you plan to have your layout. Put some scenic elements on it, houses and such to resemble trees, (cans and spray bottles can be used for mock ups) see if you can reach over them to all points on your layout where there will be tracks. If there is a place that you have problem trackwork, most are in the hardest to reach places. Of course if you can get to both sides, 36" is a non issue.
Most folks (not all) recommend using a foam friendly latex caulk for fastening roadbed to foam and track to roadbed. You only need a very thin layer, so thin that it doesn’t come up between the ties. There are some MR videos above on the menu line that show you how little you need.
Good luck,
Richard
The only reason I would use ply then cover w/ foam, is to facilitate mounting of switch machines, mounting any elec components or wiring. If topped w/ at least 1-2" of foam you only would need 1/4 ply. Sheets of luan, door skin etc is more than adequate to do this. Also as mentioned any grades can be done “cookie-cutter” fashion and the ply can be cut and raised to the incline and blocked/ supported w/ risers.
You could adapt/ change to thicker ply for this if you feel you need a more substantial subroadbed for the incline. This method will also automatically “build-in” the vertical transition (upeasings and overeasings (top of grade) to stop abrupt changes that can cause derailments or especially unwanted uncouplings.