Lookin for ideas on a first Layout.
Why only those two choices? The track with the preformed roadbed is very limited on the pieces you can get and, of course, all the manufacturers are incompatible. On the other hand laying track without roadbed not only doesn’t look good, but all the noise of the train is transmitted directly into and amplified by the base (even if it is foam).
Lay the track with the road bed. I voted for laying track without road. Use Woodland Scenics roadbed under normal Atlas track. It is easy to do and much more interesting. Buy a Xuron rail cutter/nipper and learn to use it. Flex track is great for long stretches of straight track in the beginning and if you plan to run larger engines go the 22" radius curves at the least. If you plan to run any passenger cars look for #6 switches. Keep the #4’s for yards and whatever else. Woodland Scenic also has a great how to book .
RMax
I’m a traditionalist…cork, flex-track and Atlas switches = Maximum creativity
besides that plastic bedded track looks pretty cheap to me.
[#welcome] I have never used the uni track kinda stuff,track and cork roadbed or homosote. i use cork on my layout . As was stated earlier your track plan is limited to the manf. offerings of track, switches, and radius of turns.
Atlas code 100 or 83 flex track and the best turnouts you can get, all laid on cork roadbed.
Atlas Flex, Code 83, at least #5 turnouts (except in industrial yards with switcher). I use Woodland Scenics Foam Roadbed. Its quiet, very easy to work with. Cork is also very good. As far as looks…the two look the same after ballasting.
Happy MRR’ing
REX
Advice passed on to me by a MMR:
Atlas code 83 flextrack, Peco turnouts, and roadbed (cork, rubber, etc). #6s on the main, #4s where only switchers and short (<50’ ?) cars will live. Skip the double-slips and the 3-ways if at all possible, as they’re hard to wire for DCC friendly-ness and engines and ars can be flaky on them. 2" spacing in the yards, 2 3/4" for mainlines. Make sure it’s all flat and true, keep the ballast out of the points, and you’ll have some of the most bulletproof track around.
I’m making the transition slowly. It’s not especially inexpensive, but a nose for good deals (on evilBay and at the local train shows mainly) has helped out a lot. A little weathering of the track here and there really makes it look as good as it runs.
My $0.02.
-dave
[#welcome] Go for the track laid on cork or other form of separate roadbed,I’ve generally used atlas code 83 track and switches , the brown realwood look to the ties once weathered and ballasted looks so real that you can smell the creosote, you will also have a much larger range of switches crossings well everything enjoy[:D] trolleyboy
i used cork thanxs guys ( I made this when before i resigned for the summer but im here to say i think i only made about 30 posts . but as i said im here to say
Remember to weather your track using inexpensive, gray, black and rust primers. 99 cents at Wal-Mart. Beats expensive Floquil colors.
I choose track with cork roadbed because,I think cork looks more realistic and its the only thing Ive ever used. I got my son a HO scale Thomas the tank engine set from Bachman , for Christmas.The set had EZ Track with it. Sure it goes together quick, and maybe you could fix it up abit. It just doesnt have the look that im use to and you cant get the custom curves that you might need for a layout. One thing good about it would be. It could help younger children to create layouts. sorry all you EZ track users.