Im kind’a new to model railroading, I’ve had HO sets in the past… One was on a peice of plywood under my bed when I was nine, but this is my first try at bulding the real deal. I’ve got the table build’t with the 1 and half inch form on it, I pinned the track layout down to it to see what works. The form isn’t glue’d down yet, still wating for the final saying on the layout. Im using Atlas 100 code track, sence I got so much of it, heres an picture of the layout.
I have two lines running, they work fine with little to no prolbems. I have only basic DC locomotives, there five of them, In one of the past Model Railroader magazines were they had layouts for different scales to do, the magazine even had a dvd with it showing how to bulid that HO layout out of fasttrack. Im not using fasttrack, so Im asking what kind of track bed should I use, I have no idea in this area. Thanks to those of you to reply and help.
For the trackbed, you should use either cork or homasote - i bet there are others who will say to use one over the other… though they both work equally well.
I noticed you have the switches for your turnouts attached to teh edges of the table - BE VERY CAREFUL if you are leaning over the table at one of those locations, you’ll burn up the solenoid in about 2 seconds (don’t ask how i know this… [:I])
Welcome to the forum. That looks like a nice start. I agree that you should add some road bed. I used WS foam, but cork will work fine. At this stage you are on a wonderful adventure and opportunity to learn a lot of things. Be brave, it will be better than you thought but not as good as the next time around.
Welcome to the hobby. Your first layout looks very similar to mine. I am in the process of moving and plan an entirely new configuration in the new home. However, the 4x8 layout you’ve started will give you great experience in the hobby (both good and bad). Be forwarned, eventually, you will want to rip the whole thing down and start again. Think of yourself as a painter with his first canvas. You will definitely learn a lot and, in retrospect, be unhappy with your earlier efforts.
One thing to keep in mind is whether you just enjoy watching trains go round-and-round or want to have something interesting to do with them on the layout. Joe Fugate, one of the foremost sages on this forum has an excellent tutorial on his website on the decision between a layout designed to watch trains run (“railfanning”) or one designed to provide interesting operations (like the real thing). I suggest giving it a read:
To answer your original question, there are basically three common options for roadbed: cork, hemosote and foam. Both cork and hemosote allow you to “nail” your track to the roadbed. Foam roadbed, typically purchased from Woodland Scenics (www.woodlandscenics.com), comes in nice rolls and is very easy to install.
Unfortunately, given that you are using foam for subroadbed, it will be difficult to use track nails to secure both the roadbed and track to the underlying foam. You will likely want to use latex calk or another adhesive to secure them.
Again, if you choose hemosote or cork, you will be able to nail the track to the roadbed. If you choose foam, you will have to glue the track down, making it difficult to pull up and recofigure later should your layout desires change.
hello, I’m relativitly new too and unlike many who can afford new materals I just salvage materals so I feel no pitty to do experments on my supplys. I’ve found that its safe to glue the track to the foam if you don’t plan on changing the arangment ofthe track. Just don’t forget to flatten out the glue otherwise you have blobs between the tiesinsted of ballest. Just a sugestion you might take those two switches and arrange them on the mainline along one edge just in case you want to expand (it don’t take long… …trust me) you have two options to run it from. Don’t forget to have fun.
Thanks to those who replyed, after hearing that I’ll have to glue the stuff down I’ll just place the roadbed and track stright to the table then. I’ll just us the form as scenery like hills est. I have about four turnouts one is electric, think I got a deal at my hobby shop. Electric turnouts are 9.95$ and plan turnouts are 6.95$. My goal is to make a small town on the inside, with farms on the outerside. Can anyone pick out a good and powerful transformer, I’ve been looking at some from atlas the one that had two nobbs. I’ll keep posting pictures and if I can post some video to. This is the website that I’ve been going to, it has some low prices on it.
I have some expensive electric turnouts and they only half work. On a 4x8, where you can reach everything pretty well, consider caboose ground throws for $3.00 to opperate turnouts. They are fool proof and are fun to use.
For power pacs (not transformers anymore) go with MRC. They make many models and they all work very well. I bought mine at a flea market and now that I have gone DCC they will probably get back to one. You don’t have to pay more than 50 cents on the dollar at the most. I bought one at a garage sale for $1.00. Look around, thay are out there.
You don’t need one with 2 knobs unless you are going to have at least 4 blocks, a complex control panel and run two trains at a time. Even with blocks, two controlers usually work better than one controler with two knobs (really two controllers in one box.) Caution, don’t get a N scale controler for an HO scale layout.
I’ve got a 5x12 foot HO layout. It’s got a pair of loops and some switching in the middle, very much like yours. Since mine’s a trifle larger, there are more sidings and a turntable, but fundamentally it’s the same kind of track plan. By “real” model railroad standards, we’ve both got small empires for our trains.
Let me be the first to suggest going with DCC from the start. First, it will simplify your initial wiring job, since you won’t need blocks, and you won’t need to isolate the two loops to run two trains independently. Next, you won’t have to make the decision later on, after you’ve got more locomotives. For about $15 each, you can put decoders into your existing engines. Finally, running with DCC is just so much more realistic, and so much more old-fashioned fun. There is a commonly-held misconception that DCC is really for big layouts, but I see a great advantage to having DCC on a small layout, precisely because on a small DC layout, you can’t possibly wire enough blocks to effectively run multiple trains like you could on a big DC layout.
MisterBeasley, you have that exactly right. Start with DCC if you possibly can. You can even run your DC engines for a while. The ability to run 2 or three trains at a time is much fun, and SOOOO easy with even a simple DCC. I went with Digitax, but Joe F. says you can have fun with much less, and he is the gurue on these things.
ARTHILL and MisterBeasley, I have been thinking of getting DCC. The only reason why I haven’t gone 100% is because of the price’s, even on ebay its priceie. Back to the cork, when I buy the strips, do I need to buy precut peices for turnouts, or do I just cutt’em myself.
I use the Woodland Scenics foam roadbed, too, and I like it. I used cork 40 years ago when I started with HO. Memories have faded, but I think I really like the foam better. It’s certainly easier to work with.
I cut the foam strips to created turnouts. Since you will be ballasting over it anyway, you can get away with being messy here.
Most people will suggest staying away from the “self-sticking” foam roadbed (AMI, I think) and go with the WS. I use Liquid Nails for Projects to glue the roadbed to the pink foam, and also for the track-to-roadbed connection.
Go with the WS foam roadbed, a mixture of the sheets and the pre-cut strips. I used the sheets in my yard, and the rest on the track around the layout. I would also suggest going to your local Homer Depot or Lowes and purchase the cheapest latex caulk you can find (the cheaper the better); I use the white variety, lay a thin layer down on the foam roadbed, and put it into place. The great thing about the caulk is that if you need to move a piece of track (trust me, you will have to), use the putty knife and pry it up; no muss, no fuss.
Also, along with everyone’s comments, if you have the ability, go DCC from the beginning. I started on my first layout at the beginning of this year with DC, and within 4 months, I ripped it all up and started on my new layout, wiring for DCC.
Keep up the work, and keep us all informed on the progress.
I think Im going to go with no form, saving it for making hills. I just bought cork, two boxes of it. Do I just place the cork anywere I want to start, nail it down, then place the track over it and nail it down? Or could someone talk me throw the process. This is the area were Im lost. Thanks!!
I drew a simple plan on squared paper. I then drew it full size with blue masking tape, to make sure it worked. I then drew it with magic marker on the wood. I then laid track and bed at the same time so I did not get ahead of myself. I then ran a train, and changed all the things that did not work. When I built the big bridge across the canyon, I had to redo a lot of the track to make it fit. I am from the school that rebuilds a lot of track as I change my mind. Others are great planners who get it right (sort of) the first time.
Thanks again guys for all our insights, I do really want to go DCC but I might have to wait till next time. Tonight I started with getting everthing off the table. And marking the table top into four sections, to make sure the track is square.
After that I started laying out the 18" turn on the left side of the table. And taping it all down so later I’ll come back with a black marker to trace the outline down, to get the finished layout down.
Just another one saying same as the others. Don’t dismiss DCC too easily.
Have a look at prices for NCE Power Cab or a Digitrax product that I forget the name of. There is another thread where the guys discuss which one is preferable. I think you would get one or the other for about $150. In the case of NCE Power Cab you get all you need in one box for that price. I think the Digitrax is the same deal (I have the NCE so know it better).
Of course if you have old locos, you have to add decoders, which means a bit more outlay.
My first train was a clockwork thing that had to be wound up with a key and would run until the spring ran out of tension. Don’t see many these days.[:P] That’s about how DC layouts will be before too long. [:O]
Wait for the abuse I will get for that!! The troglodytes will come out of the woodwork (should be out of their caves I guess) to berate me. But DCC is just so much better. However, it’s up to you in the end.
I would love to start out with DCC, but I’ll have to find a good price on a starter kit or something like that. And I think I found one, its Zephyr Digitrax Command Control Basic Set. Just looked it up, and its just 200$. Now im getting excited
FirstHobby.com
Digitrax Zephyr - $150
NCE PowerCab $140
Get very excited!
I got the PowerCab from FirstHobby a couple of weeks ago and love it. As others have said, being able to drive the train and not the track makes an incredible difference.
Hay thanks gderem, Im thinking about getting that Digitrax Zephyr from First Hobby scene they got for 150$. Well today I layed out and putted down cork, I was in new waters. Finished both loops just got started on the cork for in the middle of the table. I also connected both loops and testing my Locomotived’s and seeing were the trouble spots are. Here some pictures of my lasted progress.
