What brand of paint should I use? I don’t want to purchase an airbrush system because this will be the only loco I paint so I would rather use spray paint.
Do I need to prime it first?
When I finish do I put a coat of clearcoat on it… before or after I decal?
Anything I left out please let me know. Your help is greatly appreciated.
You will indeed need primer - I use the Citadel Minatures “Skull White” aerosol for most primer jobs as it’s very effective (good coverage and finish) and doesn’t melt plastics (as some automotive spray paints can). I’m not sure on varni***hough - I usually add a coating of varnish after decalling to stop them falling off and blend in the carrier film but this may be wrong.
Spray cans can be used but will generally apply a thicker coat of paint than an airbrush, and have more of a tendency to produce a bumpy “orange peel” surface. Primer is always a good idea. I’ve found a pale gray works best, especially if you’re going to cover it with yellow or red. Prime and then apply the lightest color first, mask, and proceed to darker colors.
Decals generally work better on a glossy finish. If you use glossy paint to begin with, you don’t need a clearcoat. If you use flat paint, then a gloss clearcoat before decaling the model is desirable. Using decal setting solutions like Microsol help the decals to adhere. Once the decals are down you can overspray with another clearcoat, either gloss, semigloss, or dull depending on your preference. This will seal the decals and protect the paint job.
I do not agree at all…Worked with model cars for over 12 years…You can use a spray can and have a very nice finish when you are done! It takes time to learn but can be done! Poor results come from those that do not belive in them self!
I second that regarding spray cans. I’ve had several airbrushes and thought they were a pain to work with, nozzles clogging, splattering, etc. I’m sure airbrushes are something you need to get the hang of but the same is true of spray cans. If you learn how to use them, you can get good results. By coincidence, I just did my first custom paint job tonight for my freelanced railroad. It was an A-B set of F units and they came out beautifully. I first put on a coat of light gray primer and when that dried, I put on a single coat of navy blue Krylon. I chose Krylon simply because it was the only spray can I could find that gave me the dark navy blue I was looking for. The keys to a good spray can job is not to get too close to the piece and not to put down too thick a coat of paint which can ruin the finish. If necessary two light coats are better than one heavy one. With the navy over gray, one coat was sufficient. Yes it is important to have the right tools but it is just as important to be able to use the tools you choose. For me, that means using spray cans instead of an airbrush.
I also use spray cans to prime plastic structure kits. I will use black, white, gray, or red primer, which ever is closest to the fnal color (i.e. red primer as a base for brick). I then finish by brush painting with artist’s acrylics. Usually, doing to coats. I like the fact that brush painting does not give me an even color. Except for very new buidlings, real structures don’t age evenly. There are usually slight variations in the surface colors and brush painting creates this effect almost automatically. I then use standard weathering techniques.
For you guys pushing spray cans - did you notice the original poster want to paint an N scale engine? It’s probably about 2 inches long. I agree that spray cans do have their use, but being able to paint such a small item without obscuring all of the tiny detail with a spray can is something for the more experienced painters. Either have someone else with an airbrush paint it or even do it by hand would be better in this case than a spray can.
If you don’t want to purchase an air brush and learn to use it, then pay someone else to do it. Most people who do not work on their own automobiles have no problem with this approach, but think there is something wrong with paying someone for any part of the model RR’ing experience. I think the important thing is getting it right. I used to have a few professionally painted models and was very, very happy with them. I have since learned to airbrush myself, but each person should do what’s best for them.
You didn’t save on the money when you purchased the loco so why try to save on the one thing that everyone will see. If you have it professionally done you will have the enjoyment of that paint job until the loco wears out. If you do it yourself, you’re going to be embarresed every time someone looks at it. If you want to do it yourself buy the airbrush and practice… There is no sense in buying a nice car and painting it with a paint roller, which is basically what you are doing. Trust me - after you get the airbrush, you’ll be like the kid with a new hammer that thinks everything is a nail. You’ll use the airbru***o do a lots of things that you never thought of before.
I not trying to give anyone a hard time but rather the benefit on many years of experience.
The loco in the picture below is my pride and joy. It is the 15th or 16th loco that I’ve airbrushed. Many years ago, I was tired of the poor results from the spray cans so I ask the wife for an airbrush for Christmas, she bought me a Paasche - that was one of my better Christmas presents. Their are some good buys on eBay.
I have used both and have obtained excellent results.
The tools that one chooses are only as good as the person using them they all take time to learn and will require practice in order to be proficient with them.
I just painted two diesel shells with a spray can. Excellent finish and the detail was not obscured at all. All the rivets are visible. I have two airbrushes, one cheap and another top of the line. I’m sure a lot of modelers are very proficient with them but I’ve never been able to use them without a lot of hassles. George Selios created the magnificent structures on his Franklin and South Manchester using spray cans. There’s no reason you can’t achieve good results with spray cans. Use what works best for you.
Personally, I can’t use an airbru***o save my life. I’ve used rattle cans on structures and rolling stock with very good results. Using model grade paints (such as Testors, etc.) will give better results because the pigments are ground to a finer texture.
Thanks everyone for the responses. It seems like most are in favor of an airbrush system…but it’s not in the budget right now or maybe I would give it a little more consideration (I do want my paint job to look great). So maybe for the time being I’ll hold off on the painting unless I can find someone willing to do it for me at a reasonable price. Thanks again for the responses and Happy Holidays.
I was hardcore “spray can” for year until I got my first airbrush…I never looked back!
I started shooting stuff left and right!
Spray cans may yeild good results in some cases, but for an N scale locomotive I would never recommend it. Save up your money and go for an airbrush.
For beginners, there single-action units are good. It’s almost like shooting with a spray can except that you have much greater control over your pant finish and the size of your fan.
skates94,
the airbrush is the way to go…with a little practice it’s a snap to use…you’ll need to prime it ,then you’re ready to paint it with an airbrush … i use light gray primer from a can type sprayer and since it’s N scale don’t use much and hold the can a good distance from the model so you don’t overspray in right off the bat with the primer…poly S acrylic or floquil mixed 75% paint / 25% thinner are good air brush paints …paint evenly and follow thru with the airbrush stroke past the model before you release the button so you don’t over paint the ends of the model if you stop short with the brush before passing the model …also, you’ll need to learn to tape off what you don’t want painted…a good architect masking tape and a sharp hobby knife is good to use…chuck