FIXED-How do I deepen aristo Frog's-FIXED

SO now that I’ve derailed my Comet way too many time’s what is the best way to deepen the frog’s on aristo 10ft dia switch’s? My comet is F3a - Aristo smothside coach - F3a. Oh by the way I found a spot on two sections of Aristo 10ft dia. that bind. my fix for that was to remove three tie screws at the point of binding. I used a three point track gage to find the problem, only bound in one direction.

Dave

Thank’s to all for your recomendations.

After eyeballing the guiderail and wheel spacing of the coach i found the coach was a tad bit longer then the guide rail so I pondered for abit and the below is my fix. I now can do the much dredded HIGH SPEED RUN in all directions with no DERAIL’s thru the 10w.

Here’s what the main problem was

Hope someone from Aristo see’s the above a little short on the Q.A. As you can see the guide rail is half missing along with tie plate’s. I didn’t see this untill i started using the switch’s.

Marty Cozad suggested adding styren but didn’t say were? So I tryed this

And this, but still need to secure the bad end.

So Thanks to ALL hope this work’s for you.

Dave

Usually we don’t want to deepen frogs. thats bull…

joke, bull-frog…

sorry, I usually have added styrene as fillers so the flange rolls smoothly over the frog.

Maybe the newer W radious is not as deep

So that worked, my problem is my coach, after getting on hand’s and knee’s I see lead wheel hit’s the frog’s point then go’s the wrong way how can I correct this problem?? The guide rail doe’s nothing, the spacing seem’s a bit wide.

Dave

Ok, I am over at different sites and ya’ll just start talking about me…

Toad

I have 17 WR switches and I use a dremel tool with this type of bit (# 6200554) -

You just need a steady hand and run the dremel at high speed.

-Brian

So Toad, you didn’t see my picture

Brian, How deep did you go? maybe a picture or two, my prroblem is only when go thru the cruved part in ether direction. I have no problem on the strat side.

Not very, maybe an eighth on an inch. I had an extra wheel set handy to use as a depth gauge, When that rolled through without riding up I knew I was good.

What would you like to see a picture of?

-Brian

OK I got the picture now, 1/8 inch I will try that on switch after the lift out bridge, it’s not at grond level. I will let you know how that work’s for Me.

Dave

After my third cup, I thought i mite try replacing the wide switch with a #6, well that won’t work, not without redoing 1/4th of loop. Plan C just replace a three foot section with the switch and connect to the Mine spur. Opp’s it’s not in, so now it will be. Wow 3 #6 switch’s just so can run 1 Coach. Yes I have plan’s for the last #6 I own. PICTURE’S Later. IF it works.

If you check the Aristo Web Page, Forum, Trip to China!

The have re-designed the wide switch FROG and will swap them out for just the postage.

I thinkDave answered his own Q. if the guard rail is not pulling the wheels over , either you wheels are too close or guard rail needs a shim glued to it or just moved over.

I started building my own switches years back so i could call me up and complain.

Thats a Bull-frog for ya.

The main part of my problem is that one of the F3a’s is faster, since USA T. have traction tire’s on all the wheel’s, this was causing the long coach to derail at any minor track problem back end being pushed harder then front being pulled. The #6 's helped and look way nicer then the 10W. BUT had there own problems, SO after adding a drop of 3in1 at all the piviot points all is fine and I now have one of my expanchions installed I used 3 of 4 #6 switch’s I have. I ran in both direction’s last night using one F3a pushing and pulling the coach. Vidio coming 11/17/08