I need brakes installed at several points to facilitate operations. One will support cutting swing helpers into trains at the foot of a grade. The others will be useful in a couple of spots for locals and switch crews when working a couple of industries where setting the brakes to leave a cut of cars on a grade.
Unfortunately, my scale brakemen reports brakes on the equipment are almost universally inoperable. Don’t anyone report us for that, please![;)]
Anyway, I’ve been thinking of installing at least 3 or 4 of these. I’ve seen some in the mags over the years, so if anyone has a cite that would be cool. Otherwise I’ll evetually poke around and find something. But what I’d like here is to see some fo what people have done and found works. I have some bellcranks and actually an idea or two. But any pics you have would be useful to me and others.
The first install is figured out, though. It’s going to be a Bear Valley Railroad Supply “Freight-Break.” It’s called that, because in addition to being a brake, it can also be set to uncouple X2F and Rapido couplers 0although no need for that here). I have a few of their manual turnouts controls on the branch to Red Mountain and they’ve served well for almost 20 years. Here are a couple of pics:
I have seen a scratch-built variation of that commercial wire that is pivoted up to hold the car. The modeler used it to hold cars on the mainline while switching a spur. The only real problem was if the ‘brake’ was left in the ‘up’ position - trains would come to a ‘stop’ real fast. I have thought that maybe a plastic ‘bristle’ from a tooth brush or hair brush might work a well, and not need the mechanical linkage. One would have to experiment with various bristles - The advantage would be that a powered train could just ‘power’ through it.
I have thought about the problem of failure to return the brake to Normal position. Right now I’m gonna wing it. The Bear Valley turnout controls incorporate a micro-switch they used to activate the hot frog and I’ve got a few of those around, so may install a signal light if that proves necessary. I’m thinking of a flashing light aomwtimes used for rockslide fences, IIRC.
On bristles, I’ve got a few of those around on sidings where I like to spot cars someplace other than “down in the gulley.” I’m pretty sure those wouldn’t hold on the grades I need to address. Just too much tonnaga and too steep a grade[:)] Plus they’re on the main, so I’d like to have nothing in place when the brake is not needed. Not many light cars around, but some of my bristle tufts needed a few haircust before the were short enough.
Several tooth brush bristles mounted pointing up in several ties that just long enough to rub the axles. Our club did this on a tricky loads in empties out scenario where the hidden tracks between the two industires were on a fairly steep grade.
A hole in the plastic ties where a tall T pin is manually placed to hold the cars back.
Pic is of caboose on first train I cut the swing helper into, then of the helper itself moving into the train. All made possible by a little wire tip[8-|]
I will put a sign post next to the brake to call attention to it. May also do signal lights later.
I’ll figure out something else for the other locations, as I don’t think BVRRS is still with us. Anyone know? I’d recommend these if you’re not handy at cobbling things together. That’s what I’m planning right now and will post up what I come up with.
Found some time to finish my brake installs this evening and take pics. I also added a signpost with a “B” to indicate where the brake is.
Here’s the one below Hesperus.
The control is hidden in a cubbyhole.
The brake behind the smelter.
The brake up at Eureka on the Silverton Northern. This one was like building a ship in a bottle, but I got 'er done. It had to be longer, because the track it controls is up the mountain a bit. I use a simple L-bracket at the top to hold the wood. It acts as a mount for the pivot on the T-link. It’s a model plane part. The secret to making the brake is to make a L- or T- where the vertical part is short, while the arm is long. That way a small movement in the control is translated into alarge movement in the brake. Here’s some pics
Mike: I made mine for my N Scale layout using a Switchmaster slow motion stall turnout motor. Standard mount under the layout for the motor, then it’s two bends of the brake wire and adjustment of the throw distance of the motor arm. Instead of popping up from the center of the roadbed, mine is mounted outside the rails and swings across one rail just above the rail at wheel height. Works like a charm.
A double pull-double throw mini toggle on the fascia and 12 volts of DC do the job. In addition to a trackside sign, I mounted a brakeman with lantern next to the tracks.
Not sure next to the handle will be visible enough. They’re all tucked away so they don’t snag. I was thinking maybe just a switch cabinet with a red light on a post for the 3 standard guage ones. Not quite sure about the NG one. May not even need them. WE’ll see.
Owen,
That’s a great idea. Less likely to cause issues as light as N is. I’m halfway afraid I’ll impale a car with one of these – or probably a finger.[8o|][(-D]
Mr. B,
I don’t think so. I just thought it sorta fit to use the B. Nothing important came to mind when I thought if there were any conflicts…but these days that doesn’t mean much[:-^]
