Does anyone know how to wire this so it might work? This looks like a pre-war Gateman. His ‘diamond’ sign says ‘Look Out for the Locomotive’
There is a single screw post on the side.
I don’t see anything on the bottom except that hole
Doug
If I had to guess, I’d say the post is the activation voltage source and the structure was the ground. An aligator clip tothe structure and a constant voltage to the post may activate a coil if that is how the motion is created.
Jim
Looks like you have a #45/#045 automatic gateman from 1936.
There should be 2 terminal posts on the base of the gateman. One would be the power and the other the ground. You are going to have to see what one is missing off yours. But by the pictures looks like yours is missing the ground post.
A wire for the power would come from the transformer and the ground wire would come from the outside track that would be insulated with 2 fiber pins. Will the train would roll over the insulated part of the track, it would complete the circuit and the gateman would come out.
Hopes this helps.
Doug,
Do you have something holding the door open for the pics? To remove the bottom of the base to replace the post, straighten the four tabs so that you can remove the bottom part of the base. Bend them only as far as absolutely necessary. BTW, the figure’s arms are backwards.
Doug, check with Jeff at the train tender, he might have a post/nut for the ground? Olsen’s might have it too? LOVE your project man 
Thank you, gents - I deeply appreciate it. I did prop open the door - and didn’t notice the arms are on backwards. They are a press-fit. This age of this item fits as it came with the 248.
Brutus, do you have a contact for The Train Tender?
Doug,
To fix the arms, gently bend the plate on the back of the figure that holds the arms and rod in place, reinstall the arms and rod correctly, then bend the plate back. Don’t try to remove the arms from the rod or they will break. Also, ask Jeff about the bolt on terminal post. They are much easier to install than the original rivet in type.
Thanks Jim, I fixed the arms! Is there a way to connect this to a 153 track switchplate (if I’m calling it the right name)?
Doug,
Connect one post on the gateman to the lower of terminal of the 153C on the side with two terminals. Connect the single terminal on the other side to either the outside or center rail, then connect the remaining terminal on the gateman to the other rail. If you are interested in restoring your gateman, just let me know. I’d be glad to help you through it. Here is what mine looked like when I got it :
The rust on the side here and on the bottom was very bad. If it had developed any further, there would be a hole.
Notice the large chunk missing from the head and split down the right side.
Here is what it looked like after I was done. I didn’t replace any parts.
Beautiful work, Jim, and very helpful
Jim…how did you go about getting all of the surface areas that were affected by rust that smooth before priming and painting? Same with in the nooks and crannies. Beautiful work.
Jack
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I think its official name is “#153C Contactor”. It’s a single-pole, **double-**throw switch activated by the weight of the train. It could be used with the gateman, but it would be overkill and unnecessarily tricky to adjust.
Typically, the gateman used a either a #145C contactor, or an insulated outside rail, both of which are single-pole, **single-**throw switches.
I personally prefer the insulated-rail method. Done correctly, about the only things that will defeat it are cars with plastic (non-conductive) wheels and axles. If all else fails, try an Infra-red #I53 IR controller, which would be overkill in most circumstances – and expensive to boot!
Various schemes for hooking the gateman up for automatic operation can be found online in the Library at Olsen’s Toy Train Parts, and in The Complete Service Manual for Lionel Trains, by K-Line, and similar resources.
When my kids were little, I rigged up several of the little trackside sheds (gateman, whistle, diesel horn, etc.) with simple #90 switches You lose the automatic feature, of course, but the kids seemed to enjoy making the little man to pop out whenever they wished; and it gave the neighborhood kids a task to occupy them, rather than quarreling over who was going to throttle control, etc. The #128 animated news-stand with the little dog circling the fire hydrant was the all-time favorite in this area.
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Doug,
Thanks. BTW, your gateman is from 1935 due to the open cross truss sign post.
Jack,
Thanks. I did this restoration before I got my Dremel, so I had to sand and use a brass wire brush to get down to good steel. It was pitted, but a few coats of gray primer and wet sanding between each coat and after the final coat was how I got the smooth surface for the color coat. If the pitting is real bad, you can use spot putty to do some filling.
Excellent fixup!!!
Jim
Real nice job!
Jim
Fabulous restoration ! [tup]
Looks really great. A question thou has anybody found a source for the chimney?
Guys,
Thanks for the compliments on the resto.
RT,
The last time I checked, Jeff K. had the chimney. That was a while ago though. I keep forgetting to order one.