I plan to kitbash a New Haven FL-9 from F unit parts. Has anyone done this before? How much longer is the FL-9 compared to the F7? Which type is the rear 3 axle truck? Thanks four your help.
Here’s a link to basic FL-9 specs. It’s about 5 feet longer than an FP-7 and 9 feet longer than a standard F unit. http://members.tripod.com/pjctrains/FL9.txt. Most of the extra length seems to be at the rear to allow for the 6 wheel truck.
You could probably get away with a modified truck off an Athearn SD-9 for the rear truck.
Try the NEW HAVEN RAILROAD HISTORICAL AND TECHNICAL ASSOCIATION, INC http://www.nhrhta.org website for more info. Somewhere they have an article about kitnbbashing one of these things.
Andre
An FL9 is 8 feet longer than an F7. And as andrechapelon stated, an Athearn flexicoil off thier SD9 should do.
Thanks guys.
Is the front truck a normal blomberg type truck or is it something else? Do you know where i can find detail images of the third rail shoes?
Thanks
The front truck is a Blomberg B. The rear truck is an A-1-A, not a Flexicoil. And an FL9 is 8’ longer than a F9 or 4’ longer than an FP7.
If I was to build one, I’d start with a pair of Highliner Shells, 1 A and one B, a Life-Like E unit truck and two Athearn F7 frames, one with a drive.
Take a very close look at this:
http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/nh2049.jpg
Both the front and rear trucks are Flexicoil, the Blombergs interfered with the third rail pick up.
The rear truck is very similar to the SD9 truck, with the pick up shoes added.
The front is a 9’ wheel base two axle flexicoil, you may be able to stretch the two axle flexicoil side frame that comes on the Athearn SW1500 to fit a 9’ wheel base F unit truck.
For the frame, combine Athearn F and SD9 frames in a similar manner as the SDL39 project in the Sept issue of MR.
Hi, Supermicha.
Kitbashing can be fun and challenging. Just wanted to let you know in case you weren’t aware that Absolute Scale Models already makes the New Haven FL9. It is expensive, though.
Keep us posted on your progress!
Overland will be making these in brass, save youreself some pennies and a lot of time. Buy one of them.
Do a sSearch in MR’s publication index. There was a detailed article on making this very conversion quite some years ago but copies of it should be available through the NMRA library for a very small fee.
CNJ831
Another place to look for components is the old Atlas FP-7. The stretch in the middle of the carbody is correct for an FL-9, and they only need an extra couple of feet added behind the second door. You will need to add and change some details on the roof, but that’s not a lot of work.
You can cut two FP-7 shells to get the extra length. Cut one just behind the second door and use the piece as the rear carbody extension. Cut the second shell at the very rear, just at the end of the air grill. Shorten the extension piece from the first shell to the correct lengh and graft the two together.
I have these parts in my kitbash bin, but I have not yet assembled them. My plan is to try to use the stock Atlas Blomberg truck on the front, stretch the fram a bit, and place an Atlas SD-35 truck on the rear.
The scariest part of the whole exercise will be trying to paint it in the McGinnis scheme once it is all assmbled…
Good luck, and have fun doing it!
Here’s the citation for the MR article:
New Haven’s FL9 third-rail diesels
Model Railroader, August 1961 page 34
Followed by kitbash article
( DIESEL, DRAWING, EMD, F-UNIT, FL9, “KAMM, AL JR.”, KITBASH, NH, CONSTRUCTION, ENGINE,
LOCOMOTIVE, PROTOTYPE, MR )
The mechanism and detail parts involved are all out of date, but the basic re-arrangement of the body parts would apply to current models.
Good luck,
Andy
Here’s the citation for the MR article:
New Haven’s FL9 third-rail diesels
Model Railroader, August 1961 page 34
Followed by kitbash article
( DIESEL, DRAWING, EMD, F-UNIT, FL9, “KAMM, AL JR.”, KITBASH, NH, CONSTRUCTION, ENGINE,
LOCOMOTIVE, PROTOTYPE, MR )
The mechanism and detail parts involved are all out of date, but the basic re-arrangement of the body parts would apply to current models.
Good luck,
Andy
AntonioFP45: I know about the FL-9 from AS-Models, 210 dollars are a couple of money… And where is the fun when i buy a ready model???
BigBlow69: I have not the money for the Overland model… Although its a very nice engine…
jgilber0: Thanks for your tips, now i know what i must buy…
Well, i managed to paint an Athearn AMD-103 in the McGinnis Scheme, so the FL-9 shouldn´t be a problem…
Supermicha wrote:
Yep. I have using the NHRHTA’s article in their “Shoreliner” magazine, specifcally Volume 15 Issue 3. Unfortunately, that issue is sold out, but you should be able to find one through various railroadania collectible vendors or online.
The “Shoreliner” article used, as mentioned, two Atlas FP7 shells, an Atlas SD truck for the rear, and a whole mess o’ detail parts. For the front truck, they said that you could either piece together another Atlas SD truck, file off the leaf spring and hanger on the normal Blomberg, or live with the Blomberg for the 2000-2001 for the “as delivered” appearance (although, it wasn’t; they were still owned by EMD at that point, and were only demonstrators).
The article also detailed the placement of detail parts, explained the differences between Class EDER-5 (2000-20029) and EDER-5a (2030-2059), and gave some nice tips.
The only problem is that it uses the Atlas FP7 shell, which has windshield problems (it looks like it is squinting). But, since Intermountain is going to be making an FP7 themselves, I would use that instead. However, the Atlas model is the only one I know of that uses the exact same drive for both the 4 and 6 wheel trucks, meaning that the SD truck just snaps into where the 4 wheel truck went. It couldn’t be any easier (after you chop the fuel tank). So, use the Atlas drive and the Intermountain shell when it comes out, and you’ll have a heck of an FL9.
Of course, the rumor has it that some major manufacturer will be making an FL9, but nothing concrete has been heard…
As mentioned, the first two FL9’s (2000 and 2001) were tested as demonstrators on the NH with standard Blomberg front trucks. However, this lead to the FL9’s stalling in GCT when the
Paul3,
Yes, I spoke to a courteous gentleman from Branford Hobbies in 2003. I told him that I was interested in purchasing an HO Scale New Haven EP5. Said that production should resume during the fall of 2004.
One thing that’s curious. Do they have a website yet? To talk to them last year I had to make a long distance call. It is a family owned business but with so many New Haven modelers in the northeast, one would think that a website would be in order.
The black and orange stripes on my unit are painted, not made with decals!
But i know what you mean, the fl-9 would be hard, but its makeable i think…
I’m currently working on a pair of FP-7’s. Shells are Intermountain, but I don’t have a chassis to go with them. So, I’m making them. The FP-7 differs from the F-7 in that the 4’ added length is added just in front of the fuel tank. FL-9 then adds another 4’ in length to the rear of the FP-7. For what I’m doing, I’m using Stewart/Kato F7 chassis, cutting just in front of the fuel tank area, and adding 14mm of chassis I cut out of a FT. From pictures, it looks like the FL-9 added 8’ behind the rear of the fuel tank, but moved the exhaust and fans to the rear in what looks like a similar distance from the rear of the unit as the FP-9.
There are still two posters in this old thread that are still active. Anonymous is a catch all name for people who have left the forum.
Your post is additive [tup][tup] We look forward to seeing some pics of your progress.
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Yes we do!
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I would like to see how this comes to be.
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-Kevin
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Wow, how things have changed in 15 years! Now one can buy a practically perfect Rapido FL9 instead of 'bashing one together.
Jacob,
Stop! Don’t do that. My advice from 2004 is still valid today.
Buy an Atlas Yellow Box FP7, specifically one of the later ones that have the blackened wheels. It has a nice, heavy chassis and the truck spacing is exactly correct for an FL9 (because that’s what EMD did, too). There is no need to cut and splice the chassis to add space between the trucks.
Then, buy an Atlas Yellow Box SD35, also from the later years that has the blackened wheels. It’s important to match both the FP7 and the SD35 to the same era because the truck gearing changed. Originally, they both had shiny, flat disc wheels and were kind of noisy. Later, they switched to the blackened, dished wheels and the drive was excellent (like a Kato).
Take the FP7 chassis, remove the rear truck and cut several feet off the rear of the fuel tank so that it’s flush with the underframe. Then take the rear SD35 truck off that model and stick it on the FP7 chassis. It will literally snap on with no modifications to the mounting clips, drive shafts…nothing. It’s an exact match.
And that’s it! You’re done. No cutting the chassis apart, splicing in things…nothing. The only thing you have to do is figure out how to mount the couplers. On the Atlas FP7, the mounts were on the shells.
Old Yellow Box Atlas FP7’s and SD35’s are cheap at a train show. There’s no reason not to use the excellent Atlas drive.
FWIW, here’s the NH FL9 diagram:
http://www.alphabetroute.com/nynhh/dieseldgms/2000-2029.pdf