I have a BLI Hudson 4-6-4, which won’t run on my 20" radius track. Will removing the flanges from the middle drivers help this? If so, how should I go about this, and can I get wheels that come without a flange on them and rewheel it?[8D]
I’m not familiar with this particular model,but before attempting to remove wheel flanges or replacing the drivers,I’d check if they are set to proper gauge first and then if they aren’t misaligned.Hudson’s have only six drivers set pretty close together and should be able to negociate normal curve radius if properly gauged.
Another thing I’d try is removing the leaders and trailers(fairly easy usually) and try running it in 0-6-0 configuration to see if the problem really is the drivers,you may have one of these wheelsets binding or out of gauge also.
A Hudson should easily negotiate a 20" curve. I run into tracking problems on a regular basis when I acquire a new Loco. The “thing” will find a section of track that it will not like and derail without fail, which will force me to haul up that section and redo it.
I would sight the areas that are causing you grief, check them for dips, wobbles, road bed obtrusions (chunkies stuck to the rails), bad joints, spacing and other defects before contemplating touching your engine.
If this fails to resolve anything then I would take a NMRA track/wheel gauge and check both track and tire spacing.
Unless you have a jeweler’s lathe I wouldn’t even think of removing the flanges.
Another thing you may want to check is the tires are not binding. Flip the engine onto it’s back and check to see if the pilot and trailing trucks are able to swivel freely side to side and horizontally. Now check the drivers, depending on the manufacturer the center drivers are spring loaded. Gently move the drivers side to side there should be some give and movement, if not then you may have a problem, if you are unclear of what I’m yammering about do a comparison with a good loco and look for differences.
Hope this helps
Regards
Fergie
I would also check the track gauge on the curve. While blind center drivers will help it shouldn’t be needed for a 4-6-4.
Enjoy
Paul
[quote]
Originally posted by Fergmiester
A Hudson should easily negotiate a 20" curve. I run into tracking problems on a regular basis when I acquire a new Loco. The “thing” will find a section of track that it will not like and derail without fail, which will force me to haul up that section and redo it.
Same deal, its new and doesn’t like the tracks, but it appears removing the flanges would help it, judging by the way it is derailing. As it goes up the hill and around the curve, it pulls the front to the side as the middle drivers try to ride up the track.
You say it pulls to the side pulling a train around a curve up a hill. What you might want to do is see if there’s room in the front of the boiler for just a little additional weight. Although all of my BLI locos seem to be perfectly balanced, it could be that your Hudson is a little light in front. Is it a newer model, or one of the first ones from BLI? I understand that the initial run was a little light as far as tracking. Also, if it helps, I’ve noticed that the BLI’s are a little stiff on curves right at the beginning (my J1-a 2-10-4 even had some problems with my 34" radius right at first). Check the rod clearances and make sure the drivers have enough side-play. With breaking in, the side-play should loosen up a little. Also, is it just the one section of track you have problems with? I’d get a Ribbonrail 20" radius gauge and double-check. You might have a little kink in it (hard to see) that needs adjusting. This is especially true if you have a connection in the middle of the curve. Generally speaking, if you have trouble with a loco at one particular spot, it’s the track, not the loco.
Tom
I’ve noticed that sometimes newer locomotives are a bit stiff out ot the box, especially if they’ve been sitting on the shelf for a while, so lube may be an issue. I think twhite’s got a good idea with checking the balance and side-play but also make sure that there is enough play in the lead and trailing trucks, if not it’s much easier than removing flanges.
I wouldn’t touch the flanges to remove them though, you’re more likely to destroy the wheelset than to get the desired effect without specialty tools and some good practice.
~METRO