Flat coat Meltdown

I’m writing this a bit frustrated, so if there are spelling mistakes, i apologize.

So i bought an atlas GP38, the nice new on with the decoder, undecorated, and painted it for GEXR 3835. I used Tamiya Red and Sky Grey for this scheme (http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=140557). Grey, then red, mask off the red, and more grey. Everything went perfect with the airbrushing. Decalling was lengthy, but accomplished with Highbal Graphics and Microscale sets (a mix, as there isn’t a perfect set for this loco). So i go to dullcoat itwith tamiya flat clear (to seal the decals), the one in a rattle can. I’ve has used others (i.e. testors) that have actually dissolved the paint, so i figured i’d try tamiya’s. my thinking was tamiya paint + tamiya flat finish = good looking loco. Well that was the plan, anyway. The tamiya actually dissolved the grey (and some of the red, to a lesser extent), leaving me frustrated, hence this post. What’s weird, is that i’ve used the flat clear on a number of other projects recently, with no problems. &*%#.

My question is: a)did i do something wrong with the flat coat, and b) what can i do to prevent a recurrence c)any similar stories

My hope is that with some weathering, most of it won’t be too noticeable. Oh well, live and learn i guess.

Thanks for any advice (and putting up with my little rant!)

Peter.

I used tamiya paint years ago for other modelling, and one thing that struck me about it was that it would re-liquify extremely easily with thinner. Almost like it never fully cures. The stuff paints on really nice, but maybe the flat coat re-activated the paint much like a thinner.

I would like to know----how long between sprayings? i’m just wondering whether the paint may not have dried completely? It is kind of strange----

I airbrushed the grey and red about two days apart, but that was before christmas. Work and family time has prevented me from getting to it until today.

I’d be tempted to suggest that the dullcote might have done what Odie said—I seem to recall a suggestion that one sprays off to the side—so that a very thin spray actually gets on the surface----but then again-----[%-)]

I am going to try that with mine on a styrene piece I have—maybe before you use whatever try it on something else that way you can tell before it buggers up your work—

Greetings,

Sorry to hear about the problems.

If I may speculate on your process…

Acrylic paint on bare plastic

Glossing, decalling

Lacquer in Tamiya rattle can reaction to acrylics softened everything.

I would suggest the following when painting.

From start to finish

  1. Wash in dishwashing liquid, water rinse, and air dry

  2. Flat light gray enamel base coat, slight “bite” into plastic. (shows defects and gives acrylics something to stick to)

  3. Paint your body colors light color first. Let dry for several days between colors.

  4. If flat finish seal paint with Future floor wax, always light coats. Thick coats run easily.

  5. Apply Decals

  6. Seal decals with Future floor wax light coats.

  7. After drying for a couple days flat coat with an acrylic flat not laquer or enamel.

This is the process that works for me. I don’t claim to have all the answers but this has worked well for me on armor models and train models. I try not to mix laquers with anything.

Hope everything works out well for you,

Bob

This is just a wild guess, but perhaps you held the Tamiya spray dull coat too close to the model. I have had similar problems with G-scale items. The can should be held far enough away that the spray is almost dry before it hits the model, otherwise the solvent in it dissolves the paint.

I try to stay away from stuff in cans just because you can’t see it. You never know if it has gone bad.