Two questions for now.
What is the best distance to cut the rails from the first tie?
Joiners, while they fit easily onto sectional track, are difficult to fit on flex. Is there a secret technique for getting them to slide on?
usually all you will have to do is cut one tie from both sections you are going to join together…(two ties if it will be a sharp radius in a curve) …the reason you are having difficulty putting the rail joiners on is that the rails are cut with a machine and there are burrs at the rail ends that have to be filed off for the joiner to fit (unless the rail joiner is a different code size than the rail) here is my website that i put together to show you how to install flex track…click the right arrow button for more pictures with explanations on how to install the flex track…it’s real easy…chuck http://community.webshots.com/photo/137793353/200142080vaBTvT
On the rail joiner question – the track cutting machines used by Atlas, Model Power, etc. leave burrs on the ends of the rail. I always file the ends of the track, even after I cut it myself with a Xuron or Dremel, so the rail joiner will slide on; especially for plastic insulated joiners.
I cut off only one tie at each end of a piece of flex track, which is enough to allow room for the rail joiner, even on a curve.
You do not have to remove any ties when putting on the rail jointer. Just use a knife to cut the little plastic tabs off the clamp around the rail. I then pu***he tie down a little and slide on the metal jointer. Then I solder the joint and the heat will let the metal jointer settle down into the tie ever so slightly. Now there is no hump as the joint is now level with the rest of the track. I have used this method for the last 20 years. The one thing I hate is going back and trying to put the ties back in after I am done.
I have seen so many layout, that I have visited that have never went back and put the ties in!
Now about the plastic insulators, I NEVER use them, as I run DCC. The layout is one big block. When the system is shorted out by someone running the switch everyone knows about it and the offending person soon learns not to do it again!
BOB H Clarion, PA
I have a quick solution for this problem…use balsa wood strips that are the same dimintions of the tie that you can purchase at an arts and crafts store, cut them to the length of the tie, paint it, add some glue to the bottom of the tie, and slide it under the rail…Chuck
cwclark
Well with my method I do not have to do anything and the ties always match the rest of the track. Less work more time to run trains!
BOB H Clarion, PA
cwclark
Well with my method I do not have to do anything and the ties always match the rest of the track. Less work more time to run trains!
BOB H Clarion, PA
I do like cwclark and cacole though I think I’ll give Bob H method a try. I dress the rails, cut two ties, slip on the rail joiners and solder. It’s recommended that you leave about 4 inches of track straight while doing the joining process and then continue the curve after the joining process is complete. I do use insulated joiners but I use them two at time. This elimnates a lot of alignment issues that are caused when only using one. Power is connected to both rails evey 36" or less. It’s works for me.
A little trick that works for me. Between the ties on one side of the track is a small strip that joins the ties. I clip out three of the little strips on both ends of the track. You can then slide the ties back away from the joint. Do your soldering of the joints, let it cool, then you can slide the ties back in place as you secure the track. Hope I explained it well enough not to confuse too much.
Bob, I too have the layout as one big block. Amazing what peer pressure will do to an offender in an op session. They learn fast.