Has anybody tried soldering 2 pieces of flex track together before forming curve? Or is this another stupid question lol?
A long standing procedure
the flex trax itself can have the curve started, but the last six inches or so should be straight to ensure a staight joint later in that area …
the gap itself can be across from each other, or spaced a little, both methods are used …
best results are obtained with track metal joined and then soldered in place
As we say in the UK ‘No question asked is a stupid question’.
The only stupid question is the one not asked.
Happy modeling
David
This is one of the issues I had when I started.
I worked and worked at getting the track curved and then soldered.
Then I joined the MR Forum, and read posts about soldering the track before curving it.
Thanks to this forum, my flextrack-laying life became much easier.
This is a major problem using flex track. The corresponding advantage is the almost automatic creation of easements at each end of curved flex track. This isn’t what you want for a curve longer than 36", i.e. longer than one piece of fiex track. To get a smooth curve in two joined pieces of flex track ideally you want to connect the two pieces and then bend them as a unit. You want easements only at each end of the curve.
For creating the curve rail joiners will be strong enough. You can solder later if you wish. Soldering is largely a waste of time if you intend to fit multiple feeders into your layout but the “old guard” will still tell you otherwise, defying logic. If you use a continuous wire bus with feeders connected frequently then soldering the rails cannot improve continuity of power. That comes from the continuous wire bus. Furthermore, the locomotive wheels aren’t soldered to the rails and that’s where the continuity problem actually is.
However, there’s a mechanical problem if you try to put a curve through the join in the two pieces of flex track. The inner rail needs to slide out of the end of the one piece of flex track. If you join the two pieces first then the joint will need to slide into the ties of the adjoining piece, pushing that rail even further out of the other end. That won’t work.
The main problem with solder or rail joiners will be sliding the “longer” rail (inside radius) under the spike heads. The solder joint or rail joiner will not slide under the spike heads.
Better to curve your pieces separately as best you can, cut off the excess rail and then slip joiners over the joint and only then complete bending of the curve. Only about 1/4 inch of rail can move within the ties before the joint in the rail ends hits the spike heads. Using rail joiners if you choose to stagger the joints is very difficult.
Staggering the joins is possible but you will run
I prefer to solder afterwards if I am using a brand of track that stays put after you bend it. With the springy stuff, it depends. How’s that for an answer. As far as the electrical end of it, Alan Gartner says that everything should be soldered to something meaning if you don’t solder the joint, have a feeder. If you solder your joints have a feeder every second section. I follow that formula and have never had an electrical issue. A little redundancy is in my nature.
I use Atlas N Scale flex track.
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The rail joiners were not strong enough. I tried that quite a few times, and the rails would either slip out of the joiner or, more often, the rail would bend a little sharper at the joiner.
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The inside rail that pushed further out the other end was easily cut to the correct length.
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Removing one or two ties did not create a problem with kinking. The ties were easily added back by just sliding them under the track. Of course, the spike heads will not be there, but the soldered joiner keeps the track from kinking, and with N Scale, the missing spike heads are not seen.
I’ll repeat the disclaimer: I’m using N Scale Atlas track. This may not work with other scales and with other brands.
I think redundancy is my middle name. I not only soldered the joints, I also soldered feeders to every three-foot section of flex track.
It wasn’t needed, but then again, it kept me busy doing something I enjoyed.
As “ndbprr” stated, this is a long standing practice.
I am going to assume you are using Atlas brand HO scale flex track for this description, other brands might have different “kinks” ([(-D]) to using them.
I have only done this with Atlas brand track like this:
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Solder metal rail joiners to both rails. On Atlas flex track there is a “loose” rail and a “stuck” rail. The loose rail will slide easily in the ties. Make sure both loose rails are soldered together.
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Lay out the curve with the loose rail on the inside of the curve. Try to position the soldered joint near the center of the curve and at least 15 inches from either end.
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Cut the ends of the flex track to join to the existing track and connect as appropriate.
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If done correctly, you will have about an even amount of extra “loose side” rail on both ends of the curve, and sleeper spacing should be even and continuous through the curve.
I hope this helps, and as NorthBrit said, there are no dumb questions.
-Kevin
I solder the track together while one piece is already laid down on a curve.
I first remove one tie from each end of the Atlas flex track that I am planning to lay so there is room for the joiner. I save those if I need to fill them back in (in staging, I don’t bother as it’s not the visible scenic’d part of the layout).
I lay my flex track on a curve centerline and leave the last ~10 inches loose, the rest of it being fastened down using Atlas track nails or spikes.
I then bend the remaining track around following the centeriline and the inner rail is sticking out at that point. The inner rail is the sliding rail.
I then mark it parallel to the outer rail by scoring the top of the rail with an Xacto chisle blade. Then let it spring back out a bit and cut the rail with a Demel cut off disc (obligatory wear eye protection).
Now that both rails are even when curved to the centerline I bend it back around part way to that the end of the loose part is mostly straight and hold it there with a track nail stuck in temporarily against the side; I attach the next piece of flex, attach head sinks, brush on flux and solder the outsides of each rail at the joiner.
Now I bend the track around for a smooth flowing curve on the centerline and tack it down and keep going.
The rail joiners are both parallel at the end of each track as you can see in the photo below.
I am using Atlas code 83, lots of great advice so far. THANKS!
No one mentioned (sorry if I missed some) one problem that can occur if all rail joints are soldered - if layout room temperature fluctuates a lot throughout the year, in warmer period rail can expand so much it will break the tie and track will be destroyed. I experienced that on several layouts.
I am aware it is good to solder rails, at least in curve, but maybe to avoid track destruction due to big temperature difference, it is good to solder only curved sections, while leaving straight sections without soldering (with some small intentional gaps between rails), to allow for material expansion. Of course, that requires feeders for all flex tracks.
Comments are appreciated.
Hrvoje
I’m doing this as we speak. The method:
Take two, or in my case three, pieces of straight flex track out of the box.
Remove one tie at each end of each piece to allow for the soldered joiners to slide with the rail. I’m using Peco code 83.
Install joiners.
Solder joiners
Bend track to shape and affix to roadbed with caulk.
Install feedered rail joiners at each end…or maybe after another piece track I solder to the curve.
In my experience, this is simply not true. I have built several large layouts, creating 32 inch radius curves. Initially I simply installed rail joiners, but the resulting kinks caused constant derailments. I eventually took out all of the curved and reinstalled the flex track after soldering the rail joiners in place. Rail joiners alone are simply inadequate to form a curve without kinking. Listen to the “old guard”, whatever that means.
I use Atlas Code 83 flex track, and I follow the same method as described by Doughless. Always solder multiple pieces of flex track together to form your curves.
I have done both; the in-place way works better for me.
Lay the first length, leave six inches free.
Second length slides in six-to-eight ties, with ties removed.
Joiner binds the displaced rails, second joiner in the usual place.
Bend the two onto the centreline, spike the new length. It will be perfect.
It does depend also on the type of flex track. Peco is flexible both ways as is ME flex track. Atlas and Walthers is springy.
The joiners will be enough if you actually bend the curve leaving no tension in the rail.
Atlas and Walthers (formerly Shinohara) spring back as you release the bending force. You have to over bend by just the right amount so the desired curve results after the bending force is removed. If you try to hold the bend with glue or nails or joiners you will not be happy.
Peco is slightly springy but much easier to bend by just the right amount.
ME bends if you just look at it funny and won’t try to straighten itself.
If your rail joints kink it’s not the joiners. The joiners are not supposed to be under any tension whether you’re using flex track or sectional track. Once joined you glue or nail down the track and all locating forces should be transferred to the glue bond if the nails.
I must say it is curiously gratifying to be able to predict the posts after such a short while on this board.
Better known as fact checking.
I have not seen the new Walthers track, however, I have 500’ of the old stuff on the layout and it is not the springy type. Is the new stuff springy?