I bought some Atlas code 83 flex track at a train show yesterday. Looks like you need end pieces on each one, I was not aware of this. Since $2.49/piece is the cheapest I have seen so far,and seeing as I would need 54 of them, is their a way around this? Cost wise maybe it would be best if I just go with 9" straights instead.
You don’t need end pieces. You remove a tie or two to allow room for the joiners to slip on. Using flex instead of 9" sections will make your railroad more reliable both mechanicahlly (fewer joints) and electrically (fewer joints).
–Randy
The flex track with which I am familiar uses very cheap metal joiners, tiny sleeves that slip onto both abutting ends of the rails. I think you get something like 20-50 per package, depending on the firm packaging them, and they go for just a few dollars. No biggy. Any hobby store that deals with scale rails will have them.
If you don’t already have one, get a Xuron rail nipper. Not only are they essential for laying flex track, they are very handy for trimming the tabs off the joiners when you cut the joiners apart from each other. The rest goes just as Randy described.
Crandell
Definitely the easiest and simplest tool for cutting flex track. Sometimes you still need to smooth up the cut edge with a needle file, so pick up a set of those as well.
The Xuron cutters also work to nip off a tie or two at the ends to allow room for the joiners. Just don’t cut anything harder than the rail, like the piano wire used with Tortoise switch motors, that sort of thing will quickly ruin your rail nippers.
–Randy
Agreed, the cutters are great to have. Also a track saw or Dremel with cutting disk will also do a good job. I like the dremel for cutting out existing sections. As noted by selector and on the other post the price you gave is for a pack of 12. You don’t have to use them but they do look good.
I intentionally have offset cuts in some places to make the joints more stable. When you curve the flextrack of course that happens anyway. For the best stability and electrical conductivity you can solder the joints and then file/smooth the joints so that your fingernail won’t catch when sliding down the inside and top of the rail.
Richard
If there is a swing of temperature and/or humidity during the year in the layout space do not solder all of the connections. You want to leave a few gaps to allow the track to expand and contract.