Been a while since I’ve laid track. Sliding rail goes on the outside of the curve. Correct?
TIA
Been a while for me too but I think it’s the other way around, sliding rail on the inside, thereby keeping your tie spacing nice on the outside and a little closer on the inside. I’ve read where people have done both ways but I think the important part is keeping it the same all the way around. Hope that helps!
Happy RR’ing!
Duane
I put mine down without regard to which rail was the sliding one, and they’re likely mixed on most curves. It’s a good idea to solder the sections together while they’re still straight, then form the curve as the track is layed. I solder all of the track together, and have had no issues arising from sliding rail placement or soldered-together track. [swg]
Wayne
I have never worried about which rail was sliding, and with a couple of lazy “s” curves to gain clearance, I just use either rail nippers or my dremel to trim the excess sliding rail square. Square rail end to square rail end makes for esy soldering of the joints.
Don H.
I should preface this that Peco Code 100 flex track is what I’m most experienced with and have never really bothered which is which, as long as I don’t get any kinks.[:(]
Cheers, the Bear.
Using Atlas Code 100, I put the sliding rail to the inside. That way there are ties the full length of the outside rail, all the track nail holes are retained and you don’t have to cut ties off because there’s no rail on one end of them.
I also let the sliding rail project into the next length of flex, trimming the tie strip to create a hollow for the rail joiner wherever the end happens to fall. Having rail joints staggered, rather than side by side, drastically reduces the tendency for the track to kink at joints.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Just to add to the advice already given:
Never, put a flex-track joint over, a roadbed joint.
Frank
It really doesn’t matter, but if you want to do it all the same way, put the sliding rail on the inside.
Rich
I guess I just haven’t identitified a preferred “sliding rail” in all my years of flex-track use. The stuff slides where it needs to slide, but the inside rail is the one with the most, if not all, the motion.
I make a curve using a Fast Tracks laser cut, controlled radius, in gauge, templates in HOn3 and let the rails do what they want to do. They are called “sweep sticks” by Fast Tracks.
If the curve is very long, I presolder two flex pieces together, form the templated radius right at the joint, (center of the now 6 foot flex) and nail or affix to the table this joint section as the starting point in the middle of my large curve. From here, I work out on either side with the template until the entire curved section is complete and carry it into the straight section a few inches. Here is where I might allow a square, butt joint for both rails as I add a straight section of flex.
HOn3 can be real sensitive to abrupt out of radius, sharp incursions in a curve. To keep it all in gauge and precise radius, I must use the templates to lay all curved track, no mater how short the curved section. I have found out that no matter how well I layout the track plan with pencil and ruler on the table top, nothing beats the curved template for flawless, in gauge radiusing.
On Shinohara they both slide.