I’m planning to building a walk in type layout about 12’x12’ and 3’ wide and I’ll be running 22 inch curves. I was wondering if flex track would be the best option for the curves or would it be better to run 22 inch sectional track for the curves.
There is no hard and fast answer to your question. If you will be running smaller steamers pre-1910 and shorter rolling stock at freight speeds below a scale 30 mph, you could use sectional track. Faster freights and passenger service would need proper easements, and if possible, broader curves. If you feel you would like a more prototypical look to the curves sectional track imparts to a scene, you might be able to substitute a longer radius section at each end of the curve to act as an easement.
The cheaper, and in the long run the greater developmental method hobby-wise, would be flex track and use cork roadbed. Or foam roadbed. The reason is that flextrack will fashion its own eased ends of a curve if you allow it to. If you were to fasten one end firmly at grade and attached to the last bit of tangent before the curve, and then flex the other end to a similar junction, and if you let the central portion of the length of flex do what it wants to do, that is your best and most prototypical line. Simply use a pencil to draw the borders of the flex track ties as best you can, remove the length, and install the cork or foam roadbed within the lines. Once they are glued in place, restore the flextrack and you are done, complete with natural easement.
I feel compelled to ask you why you have settled on such tight curves for a walk-in style layout. Could you not do better, at least at the corners?
Crandell
22 inch was the best i could get. I could go a little bigger but i’ll have some big scenes along the main line. I’ll have 2 main lines running around the layout and one yard and an intermodel yard with 4 tracks through it and also a downtown scene. I will also have a outer track that will run the outer edge of my building that will have 33" curves. Speed limit for the layout would be around 25 to 30 smph. Nothing fast. I was also thinking of super elevating the curves.
The chief drawbacks to sectional track are more joints and lack of easements. The chief advantage is that sectional track can easier for some to lay.
Joints are where problems develop with the electrical path. If you solder most sections together or use jumper wires you reduce the joint problem.
Easements can be helpful for large equipment. But you do have to lay them out (templates are the easiest way) and they require a slightly wider space for a turnback curve - about a 1/2" or so. You can fake an easement by using a wider radius curve piece at each end. Say a 28" or 30" radius at each end. Of course this widens your overall curve. For small equipment you can just skip them.
Good luck
Paul
Really the only big equipment I’ll be running are my engines. Everything else will be wellcars, spine cars, and coal cars. Wish i could run 80’ cars but really don’t have the room for it. thanks for the info. I may go with the flex track to give it a better look to the curves.
The superelevation you mention would be strictly for looks…perhaps you have some idea that you would like to photograph your layout? It adds virtually nothing to our scaled down operations, and in can actually work against us in some instances if it is over done.
Crandell
Eh?
The LION used it on his four track helix. The lower deck of the helix rests on 2x6s each cut 1/4 inch longer than the previous one, thus the grade is controlled by how far apart these risers are. On top of each riser I put a builder’s shim which cants the entire deck 1/4" inward. Subsequent levels (actually for this helix it is only 1 1/2 turns) are controlled by spacers, so that all decks would have the same cant.
It works. What more could I ask of it.
ROAR
yes. when things are done and running I’ll be taking pictures. The only parts I’m not super elevating is the undertable staging yard. I’m currently planning it so I’m not sure how it’s going to look. But I do know it will enter in a Mountain side and run under my benchwork and exit on the otherside.
I use 1/16" super elevation on 30" and 33" radius curves. This is about 5-1/2 scale inches. It really does look better than flat track. Don’t overdo it though. Too much not only looks wrong, it can increase the chances of stringlining the train. If you use curved turnouts, superelevation adds some complications to their geometry too.
I would definitely recommend flex over sectional.
Without wishing to appear factious on a 22" radius I have used at the mid point of the super elevation two shims cut out of a breakfast cereal packet under the outside rail, l guess the thickness would be about .040".
I also have mainly used Peco or GT Italy Code 100 flex track, and attach the track to the road bed by drilling the sleepers outboard of each rail and then nail it down. I don’t use the pre drilled holes in the middle of the sleeper, if it is nailed down too tight the sleeper will bend therefore upsetting the track gauge. (Yes I do learn from MY mistakes).
However there is a recent post regarding the use of latex caulk for track laying.
Cheers, The Bear.
the only park I will be using track nails on are the turnouts. I’ll be using a mix of Peco and Shinohara turnouts and Micro Engineering Code 83 flex track. Other than the turnouts all track will either be laid down with grey caulk or a 50/50 mis of white glue and water.
For your very short subway trains, it appears you can get away with this.
But it’s very bad advice for those who run more typical freight and passenger consists. Such an inward cant would increase the propensity for trains to string-line (derail across the inside of the curve), which is one of the very real issues with a stiffly graded helix.
I will be doing just a slight super elevation on the curves. I’ll be running 40 cars with maybe 2 or 3 engines. mainly wellcars, spines…and coal cars. mixed fright also.
Despite not needing wide curves for the cars which you plan to run, I’d suggest going wider just for the improved appearance. I easily manage 34" radii on my around-the-room-type layout, which is only 30" deep in many places.
Wayne
I’ve never used it myself, but as I recall from other posts, ME flex track is stiffer than the more common Atlas track. This can make it more difficult to lay properly. Some modelers prefer the ME track for its appearance, though. Maybe somebody with some experience with this track can comment.
As MrB mentions, that ME flex is the most difficult to work with. It has the best detail but can be tough to conform to nice sweeping bends. With practice you can gain the curve, but any kinks are very hard to straighten out, especially when bending to tighter radius. I have used cut plywood templates to set the initial curve before final adjustments. This at least allowed bending of the full length close to the final radius. I would suggest looking into the Walther’s/ Shinohara track since you like thier turnouts. May make life easier.
Even though you say that the 22" will be fine for your use now, I would recommend that you also consider going to at least 24-26". There is quite a bit of equipment that requires at least a 24" min, but even if most will run on less you will end up with far less troubles and a far better looking train running those curves.
The Atlas and ME flex track are significantly different. I wouldn’t call one easier or more difficult to lay than the other. Different techniques do work better.
Atlas flex track pretty much requires soldered track joints on curves to avoid developing horizontal kinks at the joints because of the spring of the rail. Or some other method of locking the alignment of the last several inches of each piece in a smooth curve. OTOH, the rail spring lends itself to easy formation of curve easements.
ME flex track takes more effort to bend into a smooth curve than Atlas, but once bent ME flex track holds its curve. It holds well enough to not even bother with rail joiners on curves, much less soldering the rail joiners. The technique of brushing the tie ends closer together on the inside of the curve seems to work pretty well for forming the curve with ME track.
Laying the proverbial 180 degrees of 22" radius is where the different techniques really come in handy.
To get a consistent radius with the Atlas flex track, I need a centerline laid out on the layout. Then start from one end, fastening the track with some kind of nail or pin at rather close intervals. If the track is being glued, the pins just have to hold until the glue dries. I solder the rail joiner onto the rail at the joints to prevent the kinks at the joints.
ME and similar track that holds the curve is more easily done away from the layout. My preference is to use a plywood template on a base cut to the correct radius for the
Edited duplicate post thanks to IE7 and this site’s software.
Fred W
wow ok. the last few post has really helped me out. I think I’ll go with Atlas. Seeing this will be my first real layout. still learning but making mistakes is all apart of it. Later I’ll start to learn the harder stuff like making my own turnouts.