I’m at the point of getting ready to purchase track for my layout which is the on the Granite Gorge & Northern railroad found in Vol 7. of Atlas Track Plans. I’ve priced the track kits available for this layout which comes out to around $ 400.00 or so for Code 83 track. Since this is based on sectional track, I’m wondering if I could somehow purchase a bulk of Code 83 flex and go about it this way. I’ve heard positive/negative stories each way in regards to using sectional track, any suggestions out there? Also, is there a way to figure out how much flex track I need based on an Atlas sectional track plan if I decide to go this way? Lastly, does anyone have an example of cost comparisons of using sectional versus flex…which one is more economical, hate to have to look at this but the layout will have an extra switch yard which is going to cost me dearly in addition to the Granite Gorge & Northern layout. Any help would be appreciated…Steve [:D]
I can see your trying to bargain shop and save money but track is the backbone of your layout. I have gotten to the point in my budget I get maybe one or two turnouts a month, things take time if you want your trackwork to be the best.
As for flex track its better due to less connections and joints
I think with sectional you are looking at potentially more chances for derailment and poor electrical connections.
I would suggest that you get a couple of pieces of flex and practicing soldering the rails and laying it to see if it is something you want to do or can do. To figure out how much flex track perhaps you could use a piece of string and lay it out along the track plan. Figure about 10 percent more to take care of curves (the outside rail gets “shorter”) and waste.
Flex track gives you the option to use any radius you want anywhere on your layout and does not limit you to only specific radii. As a beginner, I did not find it at all difficult to install.
HAZMAT9,
Two methods for measuring track length come to mind: If you have examples of the various sectional track, measure them and add up the totals for your layout. This together with the turnout lengths will give you an approximation of the layouts length. The second method is to go to the Atlas web site and download RTS, their layout planning software. Then put the track plan from the book into the system. There are tools in the RTS software that can measure the lenth of track for you. The software also has an inventory and pricing area. If you enter the price of each item, it will give you total cost. It has a line item for each item Atlas offers.
If you are adding to the layout, the use of the RTS software gives you a method of testing feasibility and the fit of your proposed additions.
RTS takes a little time to learn as with any new software, but it has the advantage of being free. I use it to test changes to the BRVRR.
In general, I think flextrack is superior to sectional track. Fewer joints means fewer overall problems. Remember to solder the sections of flextrack together for the curves before laying them. I don’t recommend using the track joiner/electrical feeders (The Atlas term for them escapes me right now.) Solder your feeders directly to the outside of the rails.
You don’t mention if you are going with DC or DCC. I would recommend DCC. Better operation and much simplified wiring.
I wish you luck. Keep us informed of your progress.[:D]
When I did my first layout I used the Atlas plans in the books. I soon replaced the long stretches of 9’" pieces with 36" flextrack. It worked out great. Less hassles and not as much rail joining. Money saved was minor if any. I still use a combination of the two on my current layout. I tend to recycle as much as possible from old projects.
Great information!! I tried the RTS program and wasn’t too impressed, kinda difficult to use at first, may give it another shot. Definitely will go with flex track and solder joints. Will be going with a Prodigy Advanced DCC which will be pretty easy to tie in.
Maybe I’ll just add up the number of pieces and lengths and get an estimate of how much to go with…no harm no foul if I over/underestimate a bit. May go w/ an extra booster especially if I have an additional yard since the Prodigy is a bit underpowered. Thanks for all the help, will keep you all informed on the progress. BTW, I went with the benchwork in the Track Plan book Vol. 7 for the Granite Gorge & Northern model railroad. It iwas a bit off on the frame contrary to the book’s comment that all errors have been fixed. Used 1X4 framing with 1/2" plywood on top and will cookie-cutter. Just need to temp lay track to cookie cutter. Again Thanks…Steve [:D]
Nothing wrong with mixing flex track and sectional track. For instance a short length (especially if it is curved) between two turnouts is easier to do with sectional track.
In N scale I once used 7-1/2 in radius sectional track pieces for curves in an industrial area. The flex track won’t easily bend that sharp. The longest curve was 2 sections, the others 1 section or less.
Would love to see pics of your layout as you progress. The Granite Gorge and Nothern was the layout my dad made for himself when I was growing up (my Nscale loop and a few siding slid underneath). I can’t tell you then number of hours I spent either running his trains or running mine under his.
Hi all:
I’m at the point of getting ready to purchase track … I’m wondering if I could somehow purchase a bulk of Code 83 flex and go about it this way… a way to figure out how much flex track I need based on an Atlas sectional track plan if I decide to go this way? Lastly, does anyone have an example of cost comparisons of using sectional versus flex…
Steve
To directly address your cost exercise you have to do what any consumer does- work out the ‘price gaps’ and advantages to be gained. You’ve been given the technical reasons by others.
I dont have the book or know the plan- however as these are usually scaled in 1’ squares (or section sizes are 'known" lengths [i.e. 5" straight] then you will have to ‘guestimate’ the approximate sectional length you’ll want to replace with flex.
Once you know that, add up all switches and special track sections required (or discard any you dont want)- then cost these at retail, or net prices for what you can get. The total cost of this is specials plus flex versus the ‘layout kit’ should give you the answers you want.
How much the kit/s are discounted by and what value that represents (could be anywhere from retail less 5%- 25%) depending where you get them, is the decision you must make.
Since every plan is different, and sizes may vary depending on your changes, then the cost benefit is going to shift every time a ‘change’ is made. If you have more time than money then it is worthwhile to do- if time is also a problem you may be better starting simply with the kits.
No prob. I’ll keep you up on the progress. Once I cookie-cutter and get the track down, I’ll post some pics. I’m theming it quite different from the original and may go with chaparel/coastal theme. I plan to add some good sized hills and split the layout w/ ocean on one side with an oil refinery and two small towns in between. The layout will also have a major switching yard in which I’m adding an additional 1X10 feet and an added main line with a wider radius for passenger. Essentially the wider main line will be for passenger with the rest of the layout and tighter radius for freight. This will be HO scale and will be emphasizing SP Railroad 1950-70’s era and many “Black Widow” engines both passenger and freight. Passenger will be “Daylight” and freight “Overnight.” Steve [:D]
I’m probably going with Flex 83 although I’m questioning the Atlas 83 switches…heard some negative things about them. Do you or anyone else know other switches that I can use w/o having to do customizing…just straight use w/ the Atlas Flex 83 track? Anyhow, I’ll look at the plan and estimate pieces that I need in flex…believe it, it’s a lot easier to obtain on sale at places like Ebay! Many Thanks…Steve [:)]
People can say all the negative things they want about Atlas Code 83 urnouts, but I haven’t had any problem with them so far. I’ve run anything we can get through them, forwards and backwards - including an old brass 4-8-4 and a BLI M1A. No derailments. The cars that ‘bounce’ goign throught he frogs? A quick check with the NMRA gauge showed that EVERY SINGLE wheeleset that bounced was TOO TIGHT in back-to-back gauge. The ones that could be adjusted, once adjusted, ran fine - but all plastic wheels will be banished anyway, just have to refit slowly, as we can afford more stuff.
Sure those new Peco US-style Code 83 turnouts have much more detail on them - they are also more than double the price, and I’m not Donald Trump.
Just finished my first layout. I bought an Atlas layout kit to learn and learned a lot. I used the code 83 track and the layout has 12 turnouts. So far out of the 12, two turnouts are starting to derail my trains as they come through them. And two of the solenoids to switch the turnouts have quit working in one direction. I am ready to start another layout and was wondering if I would be better off using a different brand of switch or maybe use code 100 track. One advantage of code 100 track is my lhs carries it if I need some in a hurry.
Seems the consensus here rlbeetle is to go with flex track. I’ve asked quite a bit about switches as well and comments were that Atlas were just fine, although I’m going with the Tortoise switch machines since a has a slower response time and puts less stress on the solenoids as compared to the snap switches. Anyone else can chime in, I’m just a returning junkie…don’t know much about how things have changed in the last 20 yrs…but learning. Steve
There is a big difference between Atlas Snap-Track turnouts and the Custom Line ones. The Custom Line ones are MUCH better, but they don’t come with switch machines - thus the references you see to using Tortoise switch machines, which move slow and are more gentle (and prototypical) than the fast hard snap of the solenoids.
If you can get it, I would stick with the 83, I think it looks better - both size and detail -wise.
If you are having derailments - after had enough track down to test run some equipment, I found a lot of cars would have problems over the switches, bouncing and sometimes derailing. A check of the wheels showed them binding up in the switch frogs and popping out. Did a check with an NMRA gauge - the wheels that had problems were too tight in back-to-back gauge. Ones that rolled through smoothly matched the gauge exactly. Some kinds can be adjusted, but plastic ones I’m replacing anyway. The moral of the story is, it’s not always the switch that’s at fault.
On the first switch that was giving me trouble I spent some time checking it out and it is bouncing when it hits the frogs. I just assumed it was the switch since it was the only one doing it but your post got me thinking. Only one set of wheels is having trouble and the other set goes through the switch just fine. Right now I only have one engine converted for DCC so it could be a problem in the wheels. I have to get a NMRA gauge, I have two friends that got me in the hobby and both have told me I need one. I will check the wheels.
On my next layout I was going to look into the Tortoise switch machines. Don’t they have contacts that can be used for switch position indication. I bought some latch relays to use on my atlas switches for indication lights decided not to use them.
