A have a few questions about Floquil.
What’s the purpose of floquil glaze?
What does it do to the paint?
How much can can be added?
Also, can the new formula floquil be baked liked the old formula? At what temperature range?
I spray the glaze over the paint once it is dry in order to give a good surface for the decals to stick to. It keeps the decals from having a frosted apearence. Once the decals have set you cover the whole loco, car, etc. in dull coat to remove the shine.
As for baking, I have no answer for that. I don’t do it.
The original Floquil paint did not have any or much “binder” in its makeup. It was mostly pigment and thinner, and that’s why it dried fast and flat. Floquil Glaze is a binder, add it to the old paint and it makes it sorta glossy, and takes longer to dry. I foget the mixing proportions, I just add a some from a dropper into the color cup of my airbrush.
Bob is correct: Floquil’s “Painting Miniatures” handbook also notes that it can be used as a medium gloss coating for both indoor and outdoor use, as a primer, and, when mixed in with the paint, to give an eggshell finish. They also mention that Floquil’s Crystal-Cote is a durable indoor/outdoor clear, glossy finish that “does not yellow”, leading me to wonder if perhaps Glaze does yellow. [swg] I’ve added Glaze to colours to act as a retarder when airbrushing, although Floquil now offers a separate Retarder.
Floquil states that “baking is not needed with Floquil Model Colors”. They note, however, that “setting” can be sped up by “baking” with an infra-red bulb placed 8"-10" from the object for 20-30 minutes, or by baking in an oven at 200-250 degrees F for about 30 minutes. Obviously, wood or plastic models should not be baked. [swg]
Wayne
Glaze was good if you want to end up with an eggshell finish, it also cut down on how many coats of crystalcote you need to get a decal ready surface. It did also slow down the drying time.
Back in the early 70s, MR published an article for a drying oven made from a gas can that could safely be used with plastics, which I still use today. You would “bake” a model @ 125 degrees for 2 hours and you could proceed to mask for the next color or decalling, etc. The melting point of styrene