I have toyed with the idea of using foam board not only for scenery but for benchwork. It is available in up to 2 inch thick and would have some advantages. It is easy to cut, light weight and can be held together quite well with some adhesives. Would like to know if anyone else has had similar thoughts or has experimented with this? I think it would also be cheaper than wood.
What do you mean by benchwork? Generally, the term is used for the framework, supports and legs on which a layout rests. For that, you’ll need something stronger than foam. It’s rigid, but doesn’t have much real structural strength, so it can’t “carry a load” as the bridge-builders would say.
If you’re thinking of using it instead of the more traditional sheet of plywood, resting on top of a wood or metal frame, then yes, that’s a great way to go. My layout is built exactly that way. It’s both strong and light. I can’t climb on top of it, but I never planned to do that anyway.
This is a very early picture of my layout, when there wasn’t much but wood and foam…
I just recently began construction of my intended to be all foam table-top layout. The plan was for one main slab of 2" foam to be uncut into…a 2nd 2" layer on top, to be cut into for rivers, underpasses and such…and a bunch of blocks of 2" foam under the main slab to elevate it and give room for running wiring.
This plan is working fine…when the whole layout is sitting still on the table top. The problem comes when I move it…there is still too much flex. Not to the point of being worried about breaking the foam…just to the point of being worried about breaking loose and/or cracking of future scenery work.
Now I’m working on a plan B…some form of glued to the main slab perimiter of 1x wood to add more rigidity.
I do not know what size your layout is planned to be, but if it’s around the 30-36" by 80" size, I’d go for putting a layer of foam on top of a hollow core door slab. The ony reason I did not go that route is the 42" width that fit my space was too wide for a door.
Works for me. The Yuba River Sub has been around for about 7 years now, and is constructed of 2" extruded foam on 2x2" benchwork, with WS foam risers for the grades. Light and sturdy, and it’s a fairly large (24x24’) two level mountain HO garage layout. No problems at all–though as another replier said, you don’t want to walk on it, LOL! Unfortunately for me, the extruded foam isn’t available here in California anymore (it’s dangerous to Spotted Owls and Snail Darters, evidently), but if it’s available in your area, go ahead and use it. It’s deceptively strong and very easy to work with. And layered, it just gets stronger.
I like it.
Tom [:)]
The 2" foam will flex with any weight larger than a locomotive IF it isn’t supported well underneath. For that reason and for something to screw Tortoises to, I used a 1/2" sheet of plywood under my 2" foam. Even now, I have rail joint separation and unwanted twisting.
Not true for CA in general. A fellow I’m working with bought some last week in the bay area.
I just posted info in the Pink/Blue Foam thread.
http://www.trains.com/TRC/CS/forums/1255841/ShowPost.aspx
Years ago I remember seeing a foam layout display at the Rosemont Convention Center in Chicago. The company that built the display was promoting foam as the way to build a light weight layout.
The one thing that always stuck with me was the vibration noise of the trains (HO) running on the foam on this display layout. There were mountains and tunnels incorporated into the track plan. The tunnels really magnified the vibration sound. Is that a common problem with using foam?
[img*]http://i129photobucket.com/albums/p214/TheK4Kid/[/img*]
This is the way I built mine. I have 3 tabless end to end , they are all 6 feet wide, by 8 feet long, with with 1x4 framing, with 1x3 supports underneath 2 inch foam, with 2x 4 legs bolted on.Lightweight, strong, and easily moveable.Total layout surfcae is 6 feet by 24 feet.
Notice at the right handcorner how the foam sets down inside the framework.
Grrrrrr, Firefox just won’t let me post or hyperlink a picture on here from photobucket. I can’t cut, copy or paste either with Firefox without going through and making a bunch of setup adjustments…I am following Bergies instructions to the “T”, but I just can’t post pics like I used to be able to do.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks!
TheK4Kid
I found that what you use to adhere the roadbed to the foam makes a big difference.I use clear latex caulk, and also grey latex caulk to adhre my track to my WS foam roadbed.
I used Elmers white glue originally, for the roadbed to the foam, and yes it was a lot louder.I am also going to experiment with fiberglass batting insualtion under the table after all my wiring is in place, but it will be easily removeable for undertable work.
Ed
Over the years Ive used Wood, Foam, and Drywall.
Recently I used drywall and really enjoyed the turn out.
I think its all in the scheme and income capability.
Oh BTW
Im back, but still want to say hello to all.
I used foam and I’m quite happy with it. No plywood under my foam, just a 1x4 grid framework. Pictures on my web site. Lightweight, solid,a dn it went together very quickly.
–Randy