I.E., I want to build a door size N scale layout, and wonder if anyone has any advice as to which would be better for a semi permanent layout. Or wouldn’t there be much to choose between the two, other than maybe weight?
Seems to me like foam might be cheaper, as well as lighter.
Eh, what say you all?
No answers yet? Hmm.
Foam is easily shaped and can be penetrated with an awl to make holes for utility poles and tree armatures. It can be scored and gouged to create some natural relief. I understand, but cannot verify, that the hollow core doors are noisy.
The foam could also be noisy under the right circumstances. I think that, either way, if you use an elevating cork or foam roadbed, or simply fasten the track or pre-ballasted track to the surface with a thin layer of acrylic latex caulking, you will find it much more quiet.
Then, there’s the lightness of foam…but also the vulnerability of its edges to fingernails, belt buckles, tools set down a bit hard, falling against it and reaching out for emergency support.
If you opt for the foam, frame it around the edges, and give each 2X8 or 4X8 sheet one firm slat or joist halfway down its length, but below it, for support.
Well, like many things, it depends…
Foam over door: Door provides excellent support for the foam. Door isn’t too heavy and foam adds little weight. Good combination of support and lightness. Door can span a longer distance without sagging in the middle.
Difficulties arise when running wiring, etc. where you have to drill through both the foam AND the door. The door may also interfere with under-table switch machines like Tortoise. Noise could be a problem as already mentioned.
Foam over foam: Exceptionally light weight! More under-table support is needed to prevent sagging (yes, even 2" thick foam will sag if not properly supported!). A little easier to run wiring through the foam.
Mounting under-table switch machines can still be problematic; how to mount the machine? Screws won’t hold in foam!
Cost: In my area (Midwest) a 30x80 hollow core door costs about $30. A 4x8 sheet of 2" foam costs about $25. Door + foam = $55; foam + foam = $50. Not enough savings to make one much better than the other.
So there isn’t too much to distinguish between one way or the other. Each has it’s own set of problems. It may come down to how the layout will be supported. The door/foam layout can be set on a pair of sawhorses. The foam/foam will need additional support, perhaps from a frame built under the foam. That would add to the cost of the foam/foam layout, maybe enough to make the door/foam a better choice.
It’s really up to you how you want to do it. The choice will depend on many factors.
So, as I said, it depends…
Darrell, quiet…for now
Hmm, food for thought. Actually, I was thinking that bonding a 1" piece of foam over a 2" piece of foam would take care of the flexing issue, but maybe not?
However, I too am in the Midwest, so maybe the foam over door combo is still the best. As far as switch machines go, the only ones I would plan on having remotely controlled would be the ones against the wall in the tiny bit of staging and they could/would be flush mounted (I am planning on doing a variation of the Carolina Central, just adding one or two more staging tracks in the rear and having somewhat wider curves), the others being manually controlled.
Really, I think I just need to get off my fanny and go for something! No doubt mistakes will be made, but it is a learning process, right? [:)]
I tried the foam on foam approach…one uncut slab of 2" pink with a 2nd layer of cut into for river and underpass on top. At 76x42, there was just too much flex in it when I moved it around…not so much that I was worried about it breaking, but enough that there was little doubt that scenery and track would be adversly effected. I suspect that a 3rd layer of uncut 2" foam may have been sufficient, but that would have created reachover issues.
My solution is a door, with 2" foam for river and underpass cutting, and a 1x4 outrigger configuration to get to the 42" width I wanted.