Alright, maybe I’m not a total newbie, but close. Ran trains with my Dad unitl I was in high school, but we weren’t very sophisticated and that was 20 years ago. I’ve decided to start again. I’m justifying it as quality family time to my wife, but really because I’ve been itching to do it for myself for years.
I decided to go N-Scale since size is somewhat limited. As luck would have it, we’ve recently remodeled and I have two old doors (3 1/2 by 6 feet) that I’m going to use with 1 inch blue foamboard on top. I’ll probably use them in a “L” formation.
I haven’t rushed into this. I’ve read the forums, the mags, the book, gone and visited the local hoby store, and just have a few questions.
#1 - I had convinced myself that I was going to use Kato Unitrax to save some time and keeps my kids interested. They’re going to want to see trains run, not Dad ballasting track. I had thought of just getting the K-1 and K-2 sets to start and then expanding as we finish one area. Is that possible? If you glue the tracks down how to you expand? I was thinking that we need to move into this slowly but I’m not sure if that’s possible. Likewise, simply getting the trains to run now would be an accomplishment; nine months from now we (meaning me) may want a more complicated scheme with turnouts and spurs etc.
#2 - and I know that this subject incites a great deal of emotion, but it seems after reading all I can, that DCC is the way to go, even on a simple layout, if you can afford it. The wiring seems simplier, you can run two trains at once, etc. Is my feeling right there? I’d really rather not get it ready for DC and then decide six months from now that DCC is what I want when I can just go there now.
I’ve learned alot from reading the boards, I’d appreciate any help or insight.
To answer your firts question (or series of them), I have found the Kato Unitrack to be a very good starting point for a layout. It’s not bad looking, it is very reliable (especially the turnouts), and it is DCC compatible. The thing to remember with Unitrack is the number of power feeders used is important as you add more and more track. When I had a temporary layout with the Unitrack, I found that going more than 5 or 6 feet without adding a new power feeder yielded unsatisfying results most of the time. Also, the more you take the track apart and put it together, the more you will need to concern yourself with this issue.
The answer to your second question is an easy one. If you have looked into DCC, and you like what you have seen, by all means incorporate it in your layout. Layout size isn’t of any importance in my mind (unless we are talking about a circle of track maybe), as I wouldn’t run trains any other way. Remember there is far more to DCC than just controlling multiple trains within the same block of track… [;)] Some of these advantages get discussed, but many are overlocked so be sure to read all you can about the technology. Also, most newer N scale equipment is at least DCC ready, if not plug and play compatible, and the price for DCC equipment continues to drop making the decision fairly easy from a dollars standpoint.
The Kato track actually has small spike holes in the track and ballast that is molded to each piece. You can tack it down, just have to be careful when pulling it up. I also have a small N guage I started building when I was stuck in an apartment. I used the Kato K-1 for running while I built the cork and flex track 4x6 layout (Trains can run, but no ballast yet as new house and return to HO halted N work).
Af far as DC or DCC, go with what ever you want, just plan on any eventual upgrade. If you want DCC later, by DCC ready locos, or buy locos with DCC that will run on DC. I have not switched to DCC yet because of affordability for me personally. You are right, you can run two trains at once with DCC. I want to switch over, so I am upgrading my locomotives with new motors, etc. as money allows.
Don’t use permanent glue. I used caulking and it will come up fairly easily.
IF you can afford it, go DCC. If you want to run trains at the same time as your kids (and don’t want to do a lot of fancy wiring) DCC is the way to go. Very easy all the way around.
[#welcome] to the forum! Good to have you aboard! [:)]
#1- Since you are putting foam on top of your doors, I would go with plain sectional track rather than the Unitraki. With the foam, i’s easy to temporarily tack down your track with appropriate sized rail spikes. (I’ve had mine “temporarily” down for a year and a half now!) The plain sectional track will give you much more flexibility than the Unitrak. With the foam, you can pull up and put down layout designs as they come to mind. After you come up with a final layout design, you can then tack it down more permanently.
#2 - Go DCC. Even if you go with the limited Bachmann E-Z Command system, you and your kids can enjoy running your train rather than your layout. I think they dropped the price recently because I saw the Bachmann repackaged at my LHS for as low as $50 MSRP. Two wires will get you up and going easily for now until you get your plans set in place.
No need to ask for foregiveness. That is what the forum is here for. I can’t offer any advice on N scale, but did want to welcome you to the forums. and good luck on you new endevour. You will find this forum quite helpful and insightful, and with the help of folks here you stand no chance of failure.
Thanks for the warm welcome (and the quick responses).
I’m hoping that this all goes well. My daughter (who is 8) is all into girly things, but said last weekend that the thing she’s looking to most over her Christmas break is taking the train to Milwaukee. There’s hope for her yet.
I would say jump right into the DCC… I originally was going to set up for both on My layout and once I connected the DCC to it, never looked back on DC block control… On a simple or even complex layout however, wiring Can be the same for both… Feeders, curing short circuits in turnouts, etc. I don’t know where the claim came from that the wiring was simpler either way. The only real difference is you aren’t running cables back to a control panel for block control (more than one train at a time)…
I’m not going to suggest a system, that’s a personal preference (I know you didn’t ask) but I Would suggest that you get one that supports multiple throttles and has a simple to use throttle that can be added on… Reason being, Kids are going to get bored Watching the trains run, very soon, they will want to Run them…
[#welcome][#welcome]
Welcome aboard hoosierdad! Looks like you have done allot of homework already. Your track you asked about is a good choice and going DCC or DC is kind of up to you, it would be better to have the DCC in the beginning, but there is an extra cost involved, so either way is good.
Let us know if you need anymore help, we are here to help everyone. Welcome to the forum.
You need not be forgiven for your interest in this fine hobby!
I’m a cork or foam roadbed and flex track person, so I have no experience with Kato Unitrack other than what I have read. So I can’t help there, other than to say I have not read anything negative. As Chip (Spacemouse) said, using latex caulk as an adhesive is a good idea regardless of what you use for track and roadbed.
Any idea of what era equipment you are leaning towards? The reason I ask is that, as Ralph said, getting DCC ready locomotives is a good idea. It takes about 20 minutes to convert a DCC-ready Kato or Atlas locomotive to DCC, about 2 or 3 hours (sometimes more) for one that is not DCC ready. I’d make the commitment to DCC up front, but I’m a DCC user so I am biased.
It sounds like you are going to have a decent-sized layout. If you haven’t already done so, take a look at the track plans on the Kato site (under the Unitrack tab). Since you are going to have about 42" of width you can take a plan for a slightly narrower space and fit in larger curves.
It sounds like you have done your share of research, which is a good and essential start.
I want to suggest that you choose a DCC brand that is being used in your community, maybe by a local club or a few hobbyists. Reason is that you will have some questions and problems and it helps if you can find someone who uses the same system.
If you decide to start with DC, run feeder wires down below the table and connect them to larger power wires. Leave a bit of extra in the feeder. Then you can just replace the power wires when you go DCC or tie them all together.
it looks like all the good advice has been taken already [:)] , so i’ll just add a little more to the DC or DCC argument .
with DC to run 2 trains you need to buy 2 power packs we’ll call them A and B , divide your layout into a number of power districts , install a 2 way switch in each district , and when you run a train you have to set the switch to A or B (depending on which pack you’re using) as the train runs around the layout . want to run three trains ? buy another power pack , replace the 2 way switches with 3 way switches (ouch! maybe you should decide how many engineers you’re going to have before you start construction) and go for it .are your kids old enough to learn how to do this without being frustrated if the train stops when it crosses to a power district they haven’t set the switch for ? or worse … if you’re using throttle A and you drive your train onto a power district that is set for throttle B , throttle B now has control of your loco . i hope throttle B isn’t set for full speed and train A isn’t heading for dead man’s curve !
with DCC you select the address of the loco (btw the loco address can be changed , for example to the number on the loco itself) on your throttle and you run it anywhere you want on the layout . want to run another train ? leave that one running and select another loco address and start controlling that loco . want to go for three ? go ahead ! watch out for collisions though , they’re very possible with DCC
most of the DCC makers have not only a base unit , like the digitrax zephyr , they also make add on throttles . digitrax makes one called the UT4 http://digitrax.com/prd_ut4.php which has 4 small knobs used to set the loco address , a big knob for the throttle , and a switch to control forward , reverse and brake . i bet you could teach your kids how to use that in about 2 minutes