For anyone interested. I decided to add a 5’x8’ extension to my 19’ layout using mostly material I have on hand. The only thing I don’t have is framing. I bought one sheet of 3/4" plywood sheeting for $18 which gave me every piece of wood for a strong frame. The legs are 3 1/4" by 3 1/4", the “C” beams are 1 1/2" x 4 3/4" and the joist and band boards are 2 1/2". all out of a 4’ by 8’ sheet. I pre drilled for the drywall screws when screwing into the ends of the joists. The legs are glued and nailed. The whole thing is VERY strong and straight.
FWIW
Looks good Lee. I’ve used ply for the same type of stuff and I think that type of constuction (ripped ply) is making inroads on dimensional lumber for layout use. The dimensional lumber at my local BigBox (any of 'em) is so warpy it makes you dizzy when you sight down it. Only thing I’ve found is that unless I buy cabinet grade ply the regular stuff has so many voids in it that it has a hard time holding fasteners in it’s edges. I don’t see any voids in your photo and the wood looks better than what I find lately. You said you had it on hand. Reminds me of some ply I’ve had around since I was a teenager. MUCH better quality than what’s available today.
Between the T-nuts and bolts holding the sections together and the roubust constuction I think two elephants could dance on that table. Or at least play Twister, since there’s not enough room to dance. [:D]
I bought this sheet. it’s about the only thing I don’t have on hand. I bought the plywood from Home Depot, it’s exterior sheeting grade and I only had one problem screw and that was my fault by pre drilling too close to the edge. The beams and legs I glue and nail. [:-^]
If anyone were interested I could take a more detailed picture or two.
Lee, Great post, I have suggested this method over using dimensional lumber in previous posts but have gotten criticized for stating the truth. This is by far a much better way to build bench work both from a structural standpoint as well as from an economical one. Anyone who has tried to ever purchase dimensional lumber form any of the big box stores knows exactly what I mean.You have to rummage through the entire stack to get the number of straight pieces you need for your project. On my new section of the layout to be added this summer I intend to build my bench work exactly as you have and use 3/4" birch plywood for subroadbed with risers to get the elevations.I am looking for. I see your going with 5’ wide bench work some may criticize it for being too wide but keeping it at the height from the floor the reach to the back looks like it isn’t much of a problem. Nice piece of bench work building good luck with the new section.
If I were to start over I might consider a 2’ around the wall, but I never planed to get thissss big, it was for the “Grand kids”. I started with an 4’ x 12**‘** and this is my third addition. [:-^] Since I have access to all sides I haven’t ran into any reach problems that I couldn’t solve with a very short stool. Now I’m laminating scrap 1/4" plywood to make 1/2’ sub roadbed. I like foam for land scape but I may use a combination foam, sculptamold an plaster cloth to use up left overs.
Lou
You need to physically check the store ever so often. I picked up 3 sheets of 3/4 in 7 ply A/C sheets for $22 recently. It was a special sale item.
Alan
Overall it looks alright. Did you stain the plywood? It looks much darker than the piece with the blue tape on it? Time will tell regarding the strength and rigidity. You may still experience some cupping or warping as the exterior grade plywood acclimates. The exterior grade ply sometimes has a higher moisture content that a like cabinet grade ply. As it dries out it may want to move on you. Hope not.
I have used 3/4" plywood that was exact cut by my local HD(on a quiet Tuesday morning) - I got all of the 1x2 & 1x4 ‘dimensional’ that I wanted out of two sheets. Some folks have mentioned that their HD does a lousy job. Even paying big prices at a local lumberyard, the cost is still cheaper than ‘real’ dimensional lumber. The big issue using plywood lumber is that I must ‘pre-drill’ each hole with a screw mate. The framework is rock solid and is now over 10 years old. No warp/splits/knots…[:)]
I too have gone to plywood. I normally use 3/4 AC ply. I have wood shop, and can rip the plywood myself, so I don’t have to pay HD to do a less then ideal job. Rather then pre-drilling and screwing the plywood, I use a pneumatic nail gun.
No stain. The light behind the camera is a bright incandescent bulb and as you can see the others are fluorescent lights. Yes, it will last this old carpenter for as long as he needs it. Back when I was just starting out and making do with very little, I made a regulation size pool table with a 3/4’ plywood frame and a full 1’ deck made out of a real dense particle board. With balls on the table I could slam my hand down on the table and the balls would not move.
Its all in how you build things.[:D]
Have fun.
Lee
Edit: I have air nailers which I used on the legs but I figured the screws would hold better on the joists.
Considering alternatives to milled lumber for framing, has anyone tried PVC? I have used small dimension pieces in an application not related to bench work and found it very easy with which to work. It is available in thicknesses and widths similar to wood; also, in sheets. There should be no warping, splitting and no need to paint (to minimize moisture absorption in wood). I haven’t researched the pricing thoroughly, but a quick check on one site indicated prices about 50% more than pine and equal to hardwood. I did not check its structural characteristics, but I suspect it would be equivalent to wood (certainly close enough for model rr use).
Beautiful job! I’m sure the grandkids will appreciate the result. (My one grandson is unwelcome in my layout space. Time will tell if his nephews, my two great-grandsons, will develop into well-disciplined youngsters rather than spoiled brats.)
After carefully considering the available stock at my local big-box home improvement centers, and the terrible things that happen to forest products here in the Dessicated Desert, I went with steel. However, I’ll readily admit that I’m nobody’s idea of a carpenter. Steel does have a higher first cost in materials, partially made up for by lower tool costs (tin snips, a rafter square and a cordless drill with both drills and crosspoint bits.) My liesurely (aka snail-like) rate of progress means that my any-one-time materials costs aren’t budget busters.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on steel stud ‘C acts like L’ girder benchwork)
Chuck
I’ve used metal studs etc. on several jobs but for this application I don’t know which is worse sharp edges or splinters. I hit the plywood with a piece of course sandpaper before I install it.
Lou
I used the 3/4" birch plywood for the previous sections, for legs and beam caps. That was before the economy tanked. It costs twice as much.
I didn’t even look for the grade on the plywood I bought this time.I just noticed that the edges had very few voids, which proved the same when I ripped it. also the surface was relatively smooth. I spend so much time at HD and Lowes looking for ideas that my wife calls them my second homes.
My benchwork is 3/4" birch ply also and I highly recommend it.
The wood was salvaged and ripped to 1x4 dimentional lumber size. Legs are wall studs ripped to 2x2s.
I prefer the open grid method and start by screwing a 1x4 “chair rail” around the wall, then attach small blocks to it at 13" grid intervals with construction adhesive and one screw. The grid joists butt to the chair rail and are secured to the blocks making an L joint. This way, all screws that secure the benchwork to the building are accessible.
When placing the aisle piece, I clamp another 1x4 ply board to it (making a temporary T girder), this keeps the aisle piece straight while I add the grid boards.
