Can’t wait for Nils to finish his 8’+ “Bridge O’ Wonder” module! Even after couple months’ work it’s very nice & dramatic
We had only about 1/2 our members and modules, so if you come to the World’s Greatest Hobby show in San Mateo, CA March 2 & 3, 2013 you should see SVFMN in all of it’s full-length glory
Thought I’d throw in a shot someone (Steve?) took from the overhead crane walkway at Craneway Pavilion (it was part of the old Ford plant) showing our “whole” layout:
Like I said, 1/2 our members and modules didn’t make it to this show, so the layout will probably be twice the size for WGH in March!
Woot!
After a show I have little desire to work on the modules more, so I’ve decided to finally get around to building the 6-7 kits of turn-of-the-century and pre-1900 cars I’ve had stashed in my drawers (that’s cabinets, lads).
In typical O. Henry fashion, I’ve already thrown away my turn-of-the-century Mt. Coffin & Columbia River layout [“D’oh!”].
No problem, my boxcab or Climax can tootle around with them on the Free-moN layout next to the big diesels.
Almost done with the first two: a Mark Watson / CG N Scale Ventilated Boxcar and a Fine-N-Scale 36’ boxcar lettered for the now-departed Mt. Coffin Cannery Co.
The boxcar was the first time I made (& applied ) my own decals, make on an inkjet.
The first couple were not so pretty, as I dunked 'em before sliding them off so the ink ran.
But dabbing the back of the paper it worked out.
Just wondering how to get rid of the decal “border” which I thought weathering would blend in (oops).
More micro sol?
Dulcote?
That clear “frame” around the decals kind bugs.
Was about to finish them when I realized that I had run out of MT905 Z couplers
So the cars will be fully operational next week.
The wooden grabs are rather fragile and some popped off while brushing weathing powder on, so I replaced them with some brass wire.
“Adds Character” as we call it.
There’s also some lead weights over the trucks in the darker ventboxcars.
Ran out of Allen/California archbar trucks (mainly because I broke two ) so one ventboxcar has wooden beam trucks.
More “character”.
We have a WGH show March 2 & 3 in San Mateo, CA so Nils and I have been working on updating and scenicing the other return loop.
Fellow Free-moNster Eric built this double wye / return loop in about 3 days before the NMRA X2011 convention in Sacramento:
And it’s looked the same since.
Very cool concept: each of the 4 center sections are true Free-moN modules in themselves and so can be used individually, as two separate wyes, or a double return-loop/passing sidings o’ wonder.
Given the hasty construction, there were a few bumps in the track that was giving us problems, so Nils and I volunteered to spruce it up for the show.
And by “spruce up” I mean add three industries, two towns, a couple passing sidings and all the scenery.
Nils is working on a side module with a Sierra Nevada tunnel & rock shed on the outside and a rail-served quarry scene on the inside, while I’m working on the other three modules building a long passing siding, coal tipple that can serve 32 gons, a Company town & freighthouse and the mountains they’re tucked into.
Most of the butt joints are great, but I had to refurbish a couple.
Before:
After:
Also built up background mountains, installed a styrene backdrop fascia, and built & installed about 9 custom curved turnouts:
Your expertise and proficiency in putting out your video’s and trackwork never ceases to amaze me. I will continue to follow your work with anticipation. Keep up the good work. You are an inspiration to us all.
Re. those curved turnouts. Were they “jig made” or made “freehand” so to speak. In either case, a profound “WELL DONE” sir. [tup][tup]
The turnouts are built “freehand”: sometimes over a Fast Tracks template printed out on cardstock, sometimes over my own drawing.
Yesterday I built two more custom curved turnouts and today I installed them.
A bit tricky on the curve and over a module joint, not to mention the main is on cork and the siding directly on the foam (1/8" difference over 5"ish).
First tried some Fast Tracks templates to see if any were in the ballpark, and it turned out that #10 30"/20" were pretty close:
The main alteration is the the diverging route out of the mainline curved turnout needed to be pretty straight out of the frog.
I just sketched the changes on the template and built them like the others.
I didn’t feel like using cork for the ramp down to the siding, so I tried styrene:
The grade down is only on the left module: didn’t want to mess with carving the wood endplate “bumps” right next to the track already installed.
Works fine.
Used a Dremel to cut out the existing track sections, inserted the turnouts and cut a piece of flex to connect:
The grade isn’t as extreme or abrupt as I thought it would be, and long cars can glide through and down rather smoothly (though we’ll see tomorrow after the caulk has cured).
I’ve been using Bullfrogs for all the turnouts, but the new one o
Drove to the other side of the Bay to hook up with Nils and pick up the 4th section of the Wye Knot module, so now I have a “complete” layout in my garage:
Nils built a very tall mountain in the middle of the module, with a quarry scene on the inside:
and a gorge scene with a tunnel & rock shed on the other:
So I’ve got 4 days to do ground cover, ballast, water, and as many buildings as I can get done before Friday morning.
(Well, Saturday morning: I can install them morning of if I have to).
But if everything doesn’t get done for this show (and it won’t) then good thing there’s another show next month at the NMRA/PCR Iron Horse Express Convention!
As we’re in the middle of “the Big Construction Mess” and photos are a little confusing, so I had to explain it on another forum so I thought I’d share the design process a little here, too.
Here’s the original Wye Knot module as designed by SVFMN member Eric:
Where it gets wacky with the Wye Knot module is that each of the four center sections are also modules: each is 5’ long (from point to point) and have 12" endplates on both sides of the 45 deg “point”.
The idea (and a very cool one at that) is that:
–each individual module can be used as a separate 90 deg. curving module;
–two can be put together as a 180 curve (or three for a 270 curve);
–with the wye sections (those are not modules, as only the single-track is a standard endplate) attached you have two separate wye modules;
–four center module sections and one wye section create a single return loop;
–add the other wye section to the “top” and you have two overlapping return loops (one from each side) as well as a big curved passing siding for through traffic.
Here’s what Nils & I came up with:
The scenes are based on similar one in the Sierra Nevada Mountains here in California.
Even with all the new trackage, the module can still be arranged in all the variations mentioned above, though if each center module is used individually there’ll be a lot of “dead, abandoned track” and industries that can’t be served.
However, buy splitting the whole thing down the middle, you get two wyes, a big 180 deg. curve, and
I’m curious as to what you are using to cover the foam to obtain the mountain scenery. My HOn3 Free-mo Elk River valley modules (open top waffle frame is now under construction) will probably also use foam for the scenery base due to weight. But I’m worried about using traditonal plaster or plaster cloth on top of the foam, and ending up with a heavy module after all. Any thoughts or advice?
Fred: I just carve the pink foam to the form I want, use caulk to attach the lightweight hydrocal rock castings, apply a little lightweight spackle or sculptamold to blend the rock castings and disguise the foam-layer line, and then paint.
So unless you see a rock casting, it’s probably just painted foam.
After you apply dirt / grout / gravel / ground foam it all blends together.
I haven’t used plaster / plaster cloth since my dad & I worked on the Christmas Tree Train 25 years ago
Alrighty.
Basic ground cover done.
All track ballasted / cindered / dirted.
Static grass dynamically dumped.
Grade crossings crossed off.
Magic Water mixed and tinted.
Forgotten dock built and installed in pond.
Magic Water poured in pond and river.
And first structure built and installed:
The Eggel River Mining Company industrial switcher shed!
Tah-dah!
Ok, it’s not that exciting, but not bad for a couple hours o’ work in between doing all that other stuff and starting the mine tipple. And the first time I’ve worked with I-beams.
Eggel River Mining Co. will probably have a dedicated 70-tonner (if it can push cuts of 16 gons) or an older RS-1, -2, or-3, but the shed will accommodate at least a SD-9:
The Company was in such a hurry to put up the shed that they forgot to check clearances with the neighboring siding that services their store and freighthouse (D’oh!).
That and they forg
Thanks for the answers - that is what I was hoping to hear. I really want the foam without plaster. Not just for weight, but because to model coastal Oregon, I will eventually need to plant a forest on the slopes. Drilling plaster for a number of trees is not something I look forward to.
Your modeling is incredible, and a pleasure to view.
I’ve never really gone for a styrene structure bigger than a shack, mainly because I immensely dislike cutting out all the doors and windows.
Maybe I’m just a wuss but that short and heavy cutting action and pressure really bothers my hands and elbows.
Plus plank by plank looks so cool.
But after seeing all the nifty structures Nils built out of styrene, I thought I’d give it another go.
But first I wandered over to the local Michaels (craft store) to see if they had anything that could help out.
Like a square leather punch.
No square leather punch, but they did have THIS:
In the scrapbooking section, I found a punch with a small rectangular head (they also had hearts and stars if you want).
Not only was it on sale for $3.50 (reg. $4.99), but the long side of the rectangle is about perfect for some smaller Grandt Line windows!
Here I’m using it on some clapboard styrene for the tipple windows (which are really sections of plastic industrial handrails):
I found it’s easier to punch with the bottom of the rectangle “inside” the window hole, as if you press too hard there is a little denting of the styrene from the base under the rectangle punch head.
It’s also pretty square, and once you punch one “chad” it’s easy to use the head to align for an extended punch.
You just punch the four corners and then you can use the knife to connect the dots:
Wow MC, I am impressed! Wish I wasn’t on the other coast, I’d come to the show just to railfan your group’s modules. Just curious if your friend’s Bridge of Wonder is going as well?