OK, I can see on the Atls turnouts where to solder the feeder for the frogs. BUT where on the Walthers Code 83?
I have:
One 3 way, a #6 Double Slip and a #6 Crossover plus 62 #5’s.
The #6 Crossover is also in a reversing loop application.
Going to used Stranded #20 AWG for the feeder.
this is a 100% DCC operation.
I went to wirring for DCC and the diagram was fine BUT nothing on HOW to solder to it.
First, I apologize for responding with no offer of help (I don’t know the answer), but I just wanted to say…“You have a #6 double-slip switch!!!” Lucky, lucky!! [:D]
Perhaps scrape the coating below it, whatever it is, and solder to what you bare?
Got a bunch of DCC friendly from a closing Hobby Shop. Got a 3 way, #8 slip, #6 slip plus the #6 double crossover. Now all I have to do is figure out the FROGS.
THere is nothing to scrape to that I can see. I am CHICKEN about trashing a $50.00 turnout that you can no longer get. I need 3 more but from where? EBAY?
I have one that is one TRUE SCALE roadbed in BRASS and hand laid BUT code 100. and built in about 1956.[:D]
George,
This is a little tricky but anyone can do it with some care and patience. You have to cut out the tie material directly under the frog. You can then get enough area to solder a feeder to the frog. We are talking just enough tie material to get to the bottom of the frog. I have done this on my Walthers turnouts and all of my other ones as well. Solder quickly and it might help to practice on an older switch or scrap rail first. Another option is to solder a feeder wire to the frog from the edge of it on the visible side like a rail feeder. Also helpful here might be acid flux. Using acid flux helps the solder to flow and stick quickly before you melt stuff. Since you are doing this operation before you install the switch, it is easy to clean the flux off in the sink (rinse the switch) when you are done soldering. Don’t use the acid flux for any other electrical work and always rinse it off…Tin the wire first and use a smaller soldering iron for this operation. Good luck…
George, you may not have read a number of posts dealing with turnouts recently, including one where Mouse wondered about some of their inherent problems. I mentioned to him the site below (proudly Canuck), and I urge you to take a serious and long look at what this fellow has to share…and sell. When you get an hour to yourself, watch the on-line 75 min video on making handlaid turnouts. He also offers jigs for double-slips.
I think you may be intrigued.
Selector, looks good, looked at it when Chip was having his fun. Problem is to old to take that much time to build things and to many to do. Thank you for the input.
Do NOT use acid flux EVER with wiring.
Good luck soldering to the Atlas Code 83 frogs, whatever that material is, it does NOT take solder. I even tried tapping it and using a brass screw, but it also breaks easily!
–Randy
Randy, there was an epoxy out years ago for wiring that allowed you to epoxy wire to metal and havd a connection. Do you remember it? I thought Radio Shack but no.
I am looking at soldering on the top side of the track on the outside of the frog then painting.
DOES NOT WORK:
Soldering to the Guard Rail.
Works is to Solder to the “V” in the frog on Walthers, Have not tried it on the Fancy ones yet. I am using (I THINK) #28 awg solid (it is from some Cat 5e I have) Using the Solid green for frogs.
Yes? No? Maybe?
Been reading too may of Tony the K’s columns? [:D] Green for frog wires, 'cause, well, frogs are green. Long as you pick a standard and stick with it… I was looking at one of the Walthers COde 83 turnouts I picked up as a sample, I think you’re on to something with where to solder the wire. Now I just need to see if I can do it without melting anything.
–Randy
I tinned then used a 20/40 station set on 40 and just touched the area. I did use flux.
That radio shack .015 dia solder is the key I think.
With 600 ft of cat 5e kicking around I have PLENTY of frog food!!! LOL