So I have this great plan here (http://s222.photobucket.com/albums/dd264/Guilford_Guy/Model%20Stuff/?action=view¤t=NH4x8.gif&newest=1) and I’m wondering just how I should go about transferring the plan onto my foamboard so I can start laying some roadbed. Any tips help, thanks!
Are you using sectional track? If so, lay the track down then out line it with pen. If using flex, use push pens and or spikes to hold donw the track, some tape would help. You can all so make paper tin plates also.
Cuda Ken
Well what I meant by that was drawing the track centerline out on the foam and getting everything to fit so I can glue the roadbed down. Like, for the curves and stuff, and how to draw the turnouts in, ect.
Same answer, find the center between the lines you traced. That how I did mine.
Cuda Ken
CS -
That’s pretty much it (guess Mopar guys think alike). Even with sectional track, I’d pin it down with track nails, even do a test run with your train(s) and when you’re happy with it, trace the outlines of the track. You can find the center-line if you like, but the double outline is usually enough to get the roadbed down.
Running the trains, besides being, well - fun, may give you an idea of things to change or modify.
Archer
I went to Kinko’s and printed off my plan 1:1 scale with the centerline. Then I transfered the plan to my benchwork with a tracing tool I borrowed from a kit we got for carving pumpkins.
Check out my blog post on it:
http://bswrr.blogspot.com/2010/01/transfering-trackplan-and-laying.html
Thanks
Chris
I plan on building a ho scale layout with a mountain.The mountain will have a tunnel running through it. My problem is that the track running through the tunnel is 18’’ atlas sectional track and im not sure if I should build the layout using foam sheets or paper wads and plaster cloth. If I use foam how do I make sure that my widest turning car will not hit the side of the tunnel.Any help or information would be very usefull.
My previous layout, I actually printed it out full size, and taped all those piece of paper together and laid it over the nemchwork. Then I used a pounce wheel to trace the centerline, removed the now swiss-cheesed paper, and used a Sharpie marker to trace along the lines of little holes in the foam.
It was a HUGE waste of time and paper.
This time, I printed out the track plan at about 1/3 size and keep it handy for reference (easier to transfer measurements with a ruler from a piece of paper with a known scale). I located turnouts first, and then used a long straightedge (It’s 8’ long, breaks down into 2 sections - I think it’s something for drywall actually, but it’s a nice long straight aluminum edge, perfect for marking long straight lines and as a cutting guide to cut foam sheets lengthwise) to draw the lines connecting them. Using the mearurements from the sheets I marked the centerlines of each yard track. For connecting curves I used my curve templates from Ribbonrail or, inthe case of a long 90 degree curve, I too a piece of wood and drilled a hole to fit over the stud on my camera tripod and measured the radius and drilled a hole large enough to fit a Sharpie in. SOunds complicated but it took me longer to type this than make it. Since I had already located the turnouts, I had a start and end point so I just moved the tripod around until the centerline matched at both the beginning and end of th curve, then drew in the line and laid the cork to match.
My main use of the drawn and printed plan is simply a sanity check - so I don’t run a track too close to the edge, or extend a straight section so far that a curve to connect the next part would be below my minimum. The fact that I marked of the boundaries of my space accurately when drawing the plan means everything definitely WILL fit, as long as I locate everythign close to where the drawing says. I’ve found that absolute precsion just isn’t req
Trev3,
Welcome to the forums. A foam mountain or one from other materials need not be totally full. If you are using foam, first, lay your track, then cut one layer of foam to fit along the curve in your track. Then run, pull or push your long cars or large engines through to make sure they will not hit the sides. I should only do this if you have need for close tolerances inside your mountain, like close to the backdrop or some such. If at all possible leave a way to access your track inside the tunnel, trains will find a way to go off the track if you have a place you cannot reach.
Access can be done with a piece that will lift off or an access hole not far from the track under a rather hollow mountain. Foam can be glued so that the inside is hollow. Paper can be removed from under the hardshell once it has hardened. So any method will work. My suggestion is if you plan to plant trees on the mountain, use foam. If it is a distant hill with only tree tops showing, use your preference.
Good luck,
I am with Cowman Trey on the mountain being hollow. I used foam.
All I had to do was install the portals (used latex) and ran the trains around to make sure they did not hit anything.
I like foam, very easy (but messy) to cut and paint. There some good how to videos on U Tube. If you do use foam, find a damaged section at Home Depot, they will mark it down up to 75% off if you ask.
Cuda Ken