Seeing the post on double heading steam reminded me that I want to add working couplers to the front of my IHC steam locos. I have a 2-6-0 that I will start with, as I have two of them. Have some 2-8-0’s and 2-8-2’s also. (Think there is another one or two, do them later.) I have seen a club layout with a couple of these, so I know it can be done, not sure what is the best approach.
I would prefer to use Kaydee #5’s or #148"s. If a scale size coupler would work better and will couple with cars equipped with the above, I’d give it a try and live with the slightly different size for the ability to couple on both ends.
Any directions on what to remove and the best way to remove it would be greatly appreciated. Also, anything special you did when replacing the coupler. What has worked for you.
With a relatively small shelf layout, all of my locomotives need operable front couplers to perform switching tasks, or even to pull the train in “out and back” service without a turntable on both ends.
I have not found one “answer” to this problem, as the amount of space that you have to work varies with each locomotive. One route that has worked a couple times for me is to use a Kadee #4, cutting off the part of the drawbar that would normally house the centering spring. You will find that this is a very tough material, and filing for smoothness can take awhile. One doesn’t want any edges or burrs on the back portion of the shank, however. I then drill a hole vertically through the drawbar or shank and corresponding holes in the coupler pocket. Durable wire (usually not brass) is then inserted through these holes once things get lined up. A dab of grimey black paint hides that “centering pin”. The resultant coupler does not have a centering spring, so I may have to line up the coupler on occasion, but it does swivel left to right to allow for motion around curves.
I did my 2-6-0 it is teadious, very small files and a lot of patience. Here is the link to the 2-6-0. Be carefull with the steps I broke one off on the couch while I was filling. Didn’t even know it till the wife came up to me and said “I found this on the couch do you know what it is?” Oh yeah.
I don’t recall the exact procedure, but remove whatever is there now, and enlarge the opening in the pilot, if necessary, using needle files. Assemble a Kadee #5 in its coupler box, trim off the two projecting “ears” and slide it into place. I secured mine with a screw, so mark the appropriate spot, remove the coupler assembly and drill and tap as required, then re-install the coupler.
I put front couplers on my IHC mogul. The big problem is the coupler pocket in the IHC pilot isn’t big enough to pass the ring shank of a #5 Kadee. I enlarged to coupler pocket with the trusty Dremel. Several tricks to keep in mind. Locomotive couplers want to be electrically insulated from the loco chassis to prevent short circuits when double heading. This can be achieved by securing the coupler box with an insulating nylon screw, or by use of the Kadee 30 series couplers which are made of an insulating plastic. The black nylon screw head is nearly invisible on the pilot deck.
Get some Kadee #4 couplers and the matching boxes. The #4 has a very narrow shank that ought to go thru to pilot with a lot less filing or Dremel work. Also, check out the Kadee that comes in a tiny rounded coupler box with a hair spring. The rounded box is smaller than the regular #5 box and hence may be easier to fit it inside the locomotive.
Very nicely-done upgrades to that loco, Wolfgang. [tup]
I also recognised Bernhard’s wooden B&O boxcar as soon as I saw it. His work just gets better and better and I really enjoy following his “build” threads.
