I am modeling in HO and threre is one place at the end of a reverse loop that has quite a big gap between the insulated rails (Approx. 1/8’') I have never had any trouble with it except that is rough & noisy. Is threr anything I can put in the gap that would help? I was wondering about something like JB Weld and then filing it down smoothe. Thanks. Mike
Styrene
You might also consider inserting a small piece of styrene and filing it to be smooth with the tracks. Good luck.
Paul
As dekruif said “Styrene”.
CUT off a piece the size of the gap.
CEMENT it in place. Let DRY. (Epoxy or CA)
TRIM the piece with an Exacto knife to match the inner (and outer) rail profile.
The wheel will have smooth transition over the gap.
Connecting a wire electrically will insure both rails have power. If over time the rail expands, it’ll deform the styrene. Re-trim.
since this at the end of a reversing loop, I will need it to be insulated. As far as styrene, what type of glue should be used, will super glue work?? By the way I got a 4 oz. bottle of Elmers white glue at WM today for a whole 20 cents each, I got 12 bottles. Mike
Yep, super glue. White glue (Elmer’s) won’t stick to the rail well, and takes much longer to dry.
Have used epoxy with good results. Will take a couple of applications to completely fill the gaps. The joints look invisible, but then again I have lousy eyesight.
If it’s not giving you trouble, why mess with it? The prototype makes all kinda noise.
I take another approach to this problem…
Cut out a section of the track (up to 12") and insert new track. Cut to fit, so there is no gap upon re-installation. Use flex track obviously, and remove two ties on both adjoining ends (live ends) and insert rail joiners on the section of track remaining after cut, and slide them back on the rail to allow the new piece of track to drop in. Then, insert the new section into the insulated end, then slide the rail joiners from the remaining track onto the new section. I have made numerous gap corrections on the club layout using this method.
I always glue plastic [styrene] to the end of rails that I need ‘gapped’ and I use crazy glue. In about 20 years I have never seen a failure of the joint.
Well not counting when the ceiling fell on one layout LOL.
Epoxy should work as long as it doesn’t contain metal filings. (Some of the commercial grades do). Test a small patch of dry JB Weld with an ohmmeter.
The problem with expoy is that it doesn’t allow for much if any expansion or contraction of the rails (subbase). Styrene is a more flexible. If your track is on a curve the curve will simply change radius if the ballast is glued with matt meduim so you don’t need to worry about expansion anyway. This is the same principle as highway bridges without expansion joints being intentionally bowed upward a tiny bit. The math is cool if you’re into that sort of thing.
For those who would like to know “JB Weld does not conduct electricity” I tested it this morning and it seems to work OK. Thanks for all the advice. Mike
