Don’t want to hijack the current sound supression discussion, but I’ll include sound transmission in these questions. Sounds like interesting stuff, a bit pricey, but available at my local sign shop in 4’x8’ sheets makes the price a little more reasonable.
Has anyone used this for a layout base?
If so, comments on sound amplification/supression and how thick did you use?
What else have you used the various thicknesses for?
Snow falling and blowing, good day to think model railroad. Snowblower out of service, back up method a bit overwhelmed by the depth. If the wind stops, I’ll have to go see what I can do.
I used it over thin plywood gridwork for our display layout. It is expensive, but I chose it because it’s lightweight, doesn’t flex like other materials and is very stable. I think I used 1/2" thick. I wasn’t worried about noise suppression, so I can’t address that question.
By the way, does your sign shop carry the natural tan variety? I think that may be slightly less than white.
I have another question about Gator board or other foam core boards. Can they be painted with interior latex paint without warping? I have been considering its use as a view block.
Roger, I have read and been told by users, many times, that Gator Board will handle all the scenicking water/glue mixes you poor on them. The outside panel coatings are very moisture resistant (plastic?).
I know guys in our club who use it for structures and paint it with no warpage. Ther ARE a couple of tricks for cutting it with a hobby knife, etc. Though. It’s very easy to angle the blade and not get a square cut, but it can also be cut on a table or band saw.
Tri-dee Artist Supply in old town Mt. Vernon has some small panels to look at. Larger sheets generally have to be ordered. I think their largest was something like 16"X24"…
To the OP, I don’t think Gator Board would be effective for much sound deadening. The outside panels/surfaces are quite “hard/reflective” surfaces acoustically compared with bare pink or blue foam.
The manufacturer describes it as a wood-fiber veneer. I don’t think it’s totally moisture resiststant but it doesn’t seem to be affected by most water based glues and paint. I’ve found it to be sort of like tempered Masonite. It might not hold up if you soak it under water for a while, but I’ve never had a reason to do that. I have found, though, that most white and yellow wood glues adhere well to it, so it must be somewhat porous.
You can get a different version that is faced with polystyrene, but they call that Gatorplast. And I don’t think that is what you would want to use for building a layout.
I use it first as a base for many of my models, this base is fully decorated at the bench and after inserted in the scenery of the layout; it’s rigidity for his weight is great.
Later I use it as a base for some of my riverbed and glued the pieces togheter whith an hot glue gun.
I have also use it as couple inside my mountain skeleton, covered it whith som carboard lattice and finaly covered whith red rosin paper; an hardshell which is extremely quickly produced whithout dust and wheight nothing.
Modeling in N scale I am in the way to build a small module for a toy fair expo in october and use it as a roadbed covered whith cork; again the pieces are glue togheter whith a hot glue gun.
If You need to make an access ist’s an excellent lightweight base.
You can also use it for modeling building as a wall base or to make streets; the surface could be scribed slightly.
This product support paints easily and one of the best don’t produce dust when cutting it. You can also drill it easily.
If you try it, You will be never disappointed.
Great well know modeler Howard Zane use it extensively on his great layout.