OK, it is time to put a Tsunami in my Genesis Challenger. Which wires in the harness go to the motor, engine pickups, and lights? Does anyone know where I can find this information? Thanks guys.
I’m ready to upgrade my Challanger too - I would appreciate a “how to primer” …you know as in “Tsunami Installation for Dummies”
OK, if I have done this correctly, install instructions will appear below.
These are the steps I followed to install a Soundtraxx Tsunami Heavy Steam decoder in my Atheran Genesis Challenger. If this is your first install, be alert and up for it.
I use a Radio Shack 15 watt pencil point soldering iron….highly recommended for fine work. Cost about $8-10. Well worth the time and effort to get one. A larger iron may cause you lots of trouble.
Components:
Miniatronics 3 mm dia Yeloglo white LED w 470 Ohm resistor (12-310-05)
Oval speakers with enclosures ( I used 2 edgeport speakers until I can replace them with oval speakers) Tony’s Trains make an enclosure for the oval speaker and sells the speakers
Tsunami Heavy Steam decoder
Heat shrink tubing
Unplug the engine from the tender. Remove the coal load by gently prying up at the back corners of the load. This will reveal two Phillips head screws. Remove the screws.
Gently pry up and remove the rear water hatch to reveal another screw. Remove the screw.
Flip the tender over and remove the coupler and two small Phillips head screws which hold the rear of the tender in place. Gently pry out the rear piece. Turn the tender right- side up.
The tender shell is now loose and can be gently slid backward and up. The front wall of the tender remains in place.
Cut the six MRC decoder wires about ¼ inch from the board. Do not cut the red and black MRC wires from the tender wheel pickups.
Remove the two screws which hold the MRC board to the frame. The MRC sound board can now be removed and sold on e-bay or better yet, crushed and sent back to Atheran.
Remove the two Phillips head screws which hold the small black weight in place & remove weight.
Match up the wires according to the following table.
MRC Tsunami
Blue Gray
Wow! I am really impressed that you took so much time and effort to respond in such a thorough and detailed manner. I really appreciate it! Although there are many steps involved, it looks like thanks to your excellant instructions that the process should be relatively straight forward. Thanks again - I’ll let you know how it goes.
Mike
I’m preparing to do this exact same operation. So I will follow these directions and try to get some pictures of each step.
In addition I am going to try to get a speaker or two up in the engine where the sound SHOULD be coming from.
Pharmd98233,
That was a very detailed and helpful reply. I plan to replace the decoder in my Challengers one day and I’m keeping your instructions in a Word file to refer to when the time comes, thank you.
I have a question - You suggest using a Radio Shack soldering iron. Do you think a resistance soldering unit would work as well?
Jcopilot
[#ditto]WHAT HE SAID! MANY THANKS!![tup][tup][tup]
JCOPILOT,
It sounds like a good approach, but since I have no experience with resistance soldering, I can’t provide any guidance. I mentioned the Radio Shack soldering iron because of the small wattage and widespread availability.
Anyway, I am sure you will be pleased to get rid of that MRC decoder! It just does not belong in such a fine running locomotive as the Genesis Challenger.
Fair enough, Pharmd98233. Thanks for the quick reply.
Jcopilot
New title and bump
Good luck in getting the Tsunami DCC drive to work correctly with the Genesis Challenger or Big Boy. I gave up and replaced the DCC drive portion with a Zimo. It makes the Athearn run on a par with the Trix or PCM Big Boy.
The problem with the Zimo drive is when you get the Back EMF up to the amount to allow the chuffs to be correct, the engine gets jerky at slow speeds. I called Soundtraxx several times and they called me back trying to help, but no fix was ever discovered to fix this problem.
The Zimo will fit into the Genesis engine shell and the motor wires are disconnected form the Soundtrax.
Your instructions are good for the installation as I have done some of these.
Cheers
Not a good idea. Resistance soldering uses large currents flowing through the work, and electronic devices really don’t like things like that.
Good soldering irons for electronic work isolate the tip from the AC power, so there is no voltage present at the tip. The best ones are labelled “ESD Safe”, since they won’t damage static sensitive components.
[#ditto] That’s like installing delicate electronics with a mini arc welder. NOT a good idea.