Hllo,
Has anyone tried to do this? Put a Proto 2000 F unit chassis under a Genesis or highliner body?
I do know that Genesis will fit on Stewart Chassis but I can’t find any info about the Proto 2000 chassis.
Thanks
SB
Hllo,
Has anyone tried to do this? Put a Proto 2000 F unit chassis under a Genesis or highliner body?
I do know that Genesis will fit on Stewart Chassis but I can’t find any info about the Proto 2000 chassis.
Thanks
SB
Probabally, I dont see why not
I think there are 3 different mounting systems that Athearn has used to mount the Highliner body to their Genesis chasis. I believe the first version is the one that would be the closest and easiest to fit. It uses the port hole window glassing to hold it in place. I think the 2nd version is a variation of that and was changed because sound was incorporated into the Genesis F-body line.
The 3rd version uses two screws in the back to hold it on and I am not quite sure on the front how it is attached. The chasis may protruded into the shell on the front to hold it in place. Kid of like a lip.
The first version is waht I am looking at mounting on to a sound P2K. It does share the same mounting system of the Stewart/Bowser F.
Thanks
SB
The Highliners were originally designed to be flexible and fit on many different drive units. I would think it should be fairly easy to do the fit you talk about.
Awesome thanks fo rthe reply’s guys.
SB
In addition,
Other than ‘coupler pocket’ binding you could also put in short pieces of angle or square stock to ‘beech’ the shell on to the chassis, to provide a nice landing to avoid nose-to-rear, & front-to-back tipping of the body shell. The best way to do that is a flat table with the chassis sitting, & double stick tape on the attachment points ‘loaded’ with the plastic stops, then put glue (like Testors black hypo tubebox cement) drops in the adjoining locations, & try very hard to fit the shell over the pre-taped spuds. A trick is to flange the spuds with wax paper shards & make two coupler fake box wedges with popcickle stix & square up the body while wet. (the effort is to get a square mounting ‘landing zone’ for the body shell). If you push it slowly you will not overdrive the beeching pads, if you do you can shim them. Just watch your chassis draft to enable shell removal for future maint. Once you have your beeching pads in place, you can decide if you eant to affix wioth rubber cement, screws, or whatever. it leaves it up to you. This has worked for me, & it does not change the look or finish of the model. Hope that may inspire an idea or two, good luck.