Genesis SD70's arrived

I think Athearn hit it out of the park with this one. Tsunami2 Decoder equipped model is so much better at low speed motor control than earlier Genesis models.

The detail is pretty fine. The model is so large it really has presence on the layout.

I bought this one:

https://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATHG75802

and a companion with the CP red scheme and gold beaver emblem. I saw one of the Tuscan and grey versions passing through my downtown last summer and that was enough to prompt me to put my order in. I’m glad I did.

Superb model.

Agreed, the technology in ATH Genesis 2 engines has far advanced, I was somewhat hesitant at first compared to Genesis 1 and recent engines produced from Scale Trains, Intermountain, & Rapido with ESU or TCS installed Decorders. That said I have 2 BNSF 25th Aniversary Heritage Edition ES44AC’s on pre-order together with 4 ATH GEN 2 diesels, an SD60 & SD59 in UP ‘Flag’ Livery, and an unpainted ATH SW1500 & CSX MP15DC switcher. Luckly after many years i can finally afford to purchase HO engines of my choice to run on my layout, of which i am in the middle of planning a major expansion, and its good to have so many quality built engines and rolling stock to choose from these days. Your CP SD70 in Grey & Maroon with looks great, and with GEN 2 installed it must run like a Rolex, nice choice. Bayway Terminal NJ

Nice to hear that its a satisfying purchase.

If you want to slow down an Athearn T2 equipped loco, adjust BEMF feedback by setting CV215 lower than its default setting. I set it all the way down to value of 65, but its easy to set at any level for personal taste. It makes for a crawling pace at slow speed settings. Then work on CV5 and CV6 if you want to speed up the loco’s mid speed and top speed back up to normal looking. I set CV3 and CV4 momentum CVs to 100 and 70 respectively.

That’s my simple motor control adjustment right out of the box.

And I set the dopey fake track joint noise to 0, via CV153.

And if you want flashing ditchlights when the horn blows…may not be prototypical for your roadname, but still fun…set CVs 53 and 55 to value of 201; and CVs 54 and 56 to 233. 53 and 55 is for the front ditchlights, and 54 /56 for the rears, if so equipped. It works for most Athearn T2 locos that are not also equipped with a flashing beacon.

Not my era, not my style of locomotive, but they looked so good in the promo I had to buy a couple. Very, very impressed with how much improvement Athearn has made to their Genesis lineup.

These heavy models run exceptionally well, very good low speed performance and pull like billy oh. Sometimes model locomotives are just so good you want to have one just to have one. Like Rapido’s Royal Hudson just for example.

So true and so bad…[:)] I also like the ground light and lightened number board on G2

I got mine! I love it. It’s too new for the era I model (early 1970’s) but I don’t care. It’s gorgeous.

When modeling an older era you could put that shiny new beast on display in a park just like we display old steamers.

Here is the newest beast on the NYCT!

Today I fit Kadee #148 to these. It looks like Athearn fit EZ Mate II. The coupler swing is just a tiny bit less with the stock couplers.

Each of these will pull 30-35 cars on the level around 24" radius curves. One 180 degree curve is actually 22" radius.

Good test!

We had placed locomotive #2 mid train (around 65 cars, I counted but don’t remember now) but it turned out it wasn’t quite mid load. An involuntary uncoupling event split the train at the mid train locomotive. The lead locomotive kept going while the mid train stalled spinning its wheels. Counted the cars. Moved the mid train locomotive back to actual mid train, each was then loaded with an equal number of cars.

This illustrated for me the advantage of mid train rather than double heading even for model trains. Placing the second locomotive close to the actual middle of the train improved the running of the whole train. You can see the effect on the front coupler of the mid train locomotive when it’s in just the right spot. If the speeds are slightly different put the slower locomotive mid train.

I put Kadee long center shank couplers on these. We have some curves less than 24" and the long shank compensate for the very long wheelbase these locomotives have.