as I expand my HO layout I am about ready to go with DCC. I want to run at least 2 trains for now and maybe a couple later in the future. I am running about 120 foot of track with 2 reverse loops. and a staging yard. I would like to have sound in the locos. My question is what is a good starting system, that is not to expensive?
There are a lot of good one’s out there. You can’t go wrong with a Digitrax Zepher. I got mine for $150 and I have run 5 trains on my 4 x 8. It is infinately expandable as you grow. But there are a lot out there in this range.
I would be looking at either the Digitrax Zepher or the NCE Power Cab. Both are good starter sets and are reasonable in price. Both are expandable if you see an need to go larger in the future.
Bill
I have been using a Digitrax Zephyr for a few years now on my 8x12 with a 2x16 foot extension added. Its worked great for me.
Mike some of the best starter sets have been mentioned above. Zephyr and Power Cab.
If you want to have 2 operators running 2 trains out of the box you will have to add a little to the basic setup. You can easily add a throttle to either system for $60 odd bucks. The Zephyr will let you use up to 2 of your existing DC throttles to run 2 more trains as well.
One of the key differences between the systems is the basic design. The Zephyr is a vey well designed console type throttle that would be in one location rather like a traditional MRC like power pack. The NCE PowerCab is a throttle in your hand, so it allows you to follow the train within the reach of the coiled cable. The extra throttle added to either would be a hand held.
You will also need some reverse modules for the 2 reverse loops. I would look at the Tonys Power Shield reverse unit for this.
If you want to look at a side by side comparison www.litchfieldstation.com has a"compare sets" button on the main page. Look at the under 5 amp models.
I doubt you will be dissapointed with either system.
I went with Digitrax because that is what people around here all have. There is a learning curve with problems not covered in the books and it is nice to have people to talk to. I concluded that all the systems work, so people with the same equipment was the deciding factor.
I have since added radio and wish I had started there. After 50 years of DC I could not imagine how nice a truly untethered throttle would be. For me, IR did not work dependibly
I ended up with the super chief so I could read CVs (a good choice for me) and a 400 R throttle which will be my favorite. It runs two trains with one opperator quite nicely and three if you are up to a challenge.
Thanks for the input…Withe the DCC systems you mentioned, is this a complete set or I need to but any seperate parts? I like the sound of the Digitrax simply I have a lot of you mention them in your threads.
I was iffy too, but wound up going with a Zephyr as well after running on the Superchief installed my my local club. The club requires each member to purchase their own controller; I figured since I already had a handheld controller I’d get a small system at home so they’d work together, and since I’d programmed the locos I use both at the club and at home with that same controller, why not? Anyway, the Zephyr works great, is priced right, and like other folks here said is very exapandable. Can’t go wrong.
Mike,
Both systems will work well for you. I went with the NCE Power Cab because the layout of the buttons on the throttle was more intuitive to me. Here’s a write up I did after receiving my Power Cab a few months ago:
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=59491
Mike, after you’ve done all you research, the best thing to do (if you can) is to actually try both of them out - either at your LHS or a train club. Nothing can replace personal hands-on experience in making an important decision. And in deciding on a DCC system, this is just as true.
Hope that’s a help…
Tom
Mike as I mentioned above you will need some extra bits to accomplish what you described as your needs.
The Zephyr is a complete system out of the box, and as such does not need anything added.
However, you mentioned reverse sections. You will need reverse modules for these.
You mentioned 2 trains at once. You might want a second throttle for that. This can plug right into the Zephyr, or you can buy a UP5 socked plate and a loconet cable to have the second throttle plug in somewhere else.
All of these bits are options and not needed to run the Zephyr.
Mike,
You can also check out my Forum Clinic thread on picking the best DCC system …
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?page=1&TOPIC_ID=49375
I take a look at several considerations when purchasing a new system. One of the most important, I think, is how user friendly the system is. Rather than just give an opinion, I take a typical command – making a loco consist, and go through how it’s done on each system, so you can decide for yourself.
I am finally getting out of my armchair and constructing a layout. I bought a MRC Prodigy Express system, but then read DCC Projects and Applications from Kalbach. I liked the idea of “programming” my locomotives using my PC using the DecoderPro software described in the book. As you might expect, no MRC system seems to work with this. Do any of you use this system? How hard is it to install and figure out and what DCC systems works best for it and is easy for a novice like me. Thanks.
A. Baker
I use mrc and i too was lookin for a PC interface for it, someone asked mrc on this forum before if they plan on coming out with one and they said no, you qould think since they use a LAN cable they might have something tat connects with computer. The prodigy express is rather easy to setup and program using either the Program track or mainline. and has many features and is also expandable
Oh yeah, the Express is easy, but as I hope to expand my layout as my skills increase, I wanted an easy way to add new locomotives. I’m looking an NCE Power Cab system which will interface with the DecoderPro and is pretty reasonable. Just wondering how much trouble the interface is. Thanks!
Don’t forget wireless - once you’ve gone wireless you don’t ever want to go back…
… thanks for the first hit Joe, I’m hooked now.
As long as my EasyDCC CS2 works, I’ll have wireless and a T2000 by the end of the summer.
After a long hiatus (birth of my twins - two years ago, moving homes and continuing real world career commitments), I am looking at getting back into model railroading. I am currently building a simple 4x8 HO layout based on the MRR HO Railroad from Set to Scenery layout book. I currently have the inner track and yards constructed … but using a basic DC and numerous block setup. I would like to look at converting to DCC … but truthfully I don’t know where to start for wiring details.
For now, when constructing the outer loop I want to set it up for DCC and then convert the inner loop to DCC. My three locomotives are very old … including probably my original CN F7? from my first Lionel set over 32-years ago. My most recent loco is EMD? from the standard Walther’s Train in Box Set I purchased back in 2002.
Questions:
Can someone direct me to details on basic DCC layout and wiring?
Can I run my old DC locos on the DCC track?
Any other thoughts or comments?
I really look forward to getting back into the roll of things.
Regards,
David
Lionel? Are you sure you are not in O scale? If that is the case, you might want to consider looking at the “Toy Train” forums.
David B
Well he did say HO.
There are multiple times when Lionel made HO - the 32 years ago version I don’t recall who made those. The Walthers 2002 era loco might not be difficult to convert to DCC.
Some DCC systems will allow you to run a DC loco, however it can be rather noisy and if you leave the DC loco sitting there you are risking burning up the motor, so it’s not really recommended for more than short tests (others will disagree, of course).
If the track plan involves two loops that conenct to each other - I would say DO NOT wire one as DC and the other as DCC. One mistake with the turnout settings and you can damage a lot of stuff by bridging the gap between the DC and DCC. If you want to run both, wire in a DPDT switch so that flipping the toggle one way powers the ENTIRE layout with DC, and flipping it the other way runs it on DCC. That way, no way to mess anything up.
Lastly, if you plan to get back in the hobby and stay, consider something somewhat better than the most basic starter sets. Both the NCE PowerCab and Digitrax Zephyr are ‘starter’ systems that can grow to anything you can imagine (hanger-size layout, anyone?) down the line, without throwing out the original pieces.
–Randy
Thanks Randy and David for the quick responses.
Yes the Lionel is HO scale … I dug it out downstairs this morning it says “Lionel Fundimensions” on the bottom … and was my first locomotive … probably around circa 1978/1979 or so. Still works although the headlight is long ago burnt out.
Thanks for reminder about having a DC and DCC layout … I have been reading up here and elsewhere on this issue. Based on my current status of my layout being completely disassembled after my house move … discarding the old DC block system and going straight to DCC for the whole layout is probably the best solution. I’m not sure if I want to keep the two yards I have has separate “power districts” or just have one power connection. On a simple 4x8 loop(s) (planned inner and outer loop) do I need more than one power connection for DCC? I do plan to have two crossovers made up of Altas remote switches, are there DCC issues with these turnouts (short circuits), I have read up on issues with turnouts but I am clear if these are applicable to me.
With regards to DCC systems, both NCE and Digitrax look good … I’m leaning towards Digitrax as they seem to have a good amount of addons/expansion opportunities and my LHS carries this product. The manuals for Digitrax Zephyr also seem clear and simple to quickly get started.
With regards to maybe converting my locomotives to DCC … I probably only convert the latest one as I mentioned I got with the Walther Trainline Power Pro Set back in 2004 or so. It is a GP9M.
Thanks again for the quick responses.
David