I am starting am HO scale layout I havent touched a train in 19 years. I am 33 and my son is 7 months old and I am looking forward to sharing this hobby with him( but for right now its for dad dont tell the wife) I am planning on going DCC I must admit I am a little overwhelmed but I am much more excited to try it. Benchwork will not be a problem I build furniture for a living but a seem to be having issues with trying to layout what I want to do. Mental block or maybe just not sure where to start in laying out my track plan. Any suggestions tips would be greatly appreciated. I am antsy to start but dont want to rush it till I get some ideas form those that have been doing this. Thanks
Hi Clutch,
I’m a liitle further along but not much. I also haven’t touch a train in many, many years, and am looking forward to playing with our grandsons (curently 2 and almost 4).
I’m been doing some research for a couple of months as we’ve gotten the area in the basement ready for me. I’ve checked out a lot of sights that Google pulls up and looked through a lot of layouts. I also bought a couple of the Atlas books with layouts. I’m now using the software from the Atlas website (RTS) to modify one of their layouts for what I really want to do. I’m behind my original plan, but hope to be laying track in a couple of weeks. Good luck with coming up with something. Drop me a note if I can help.
Grand Dad Bill
Grand Dad Bill
have you decided what operating system you are going to use? Also what kind of benchwork did you di i am thinking L-girder
Hi, Clutch. Welcome aboard!
L girder benchwork has the advantage of extreme flexibility in shaping the layout (odd-angle tablework, curvaceous edges,) and the disadvantage of greater depth (which can be an advantage when dropping the scenery below track level.) I personally use 16-gauge steel studs (C girders?) because wood tends to take on strange shapes in the high-heat, zero humidity conditions in my garage.
One good source of inspiration (actually several parallel sources) would be the various books authored by John Armstrong. Most books contain track plans. His explain why - and how to settle on a realistic plan that fits your own list of “givens and druthers,” whether it’s a published plan, a published plan with some “custom” touches or a completely original plan driven by a prototype scene or a desired style of operation.
You will discover that there are a lot of folks here who will be happy to help you in any way they can. Read all the threads, even those which don’t seem to apply to your needs here-and-now. Don’t hesitate to ask questions or dip your oar into a discussion.
Above all, have fun.
Chuck
Layouts are usually a compromise between what you want in one versus the time/space/finance variable, with space generally being the biggest limiter. Think about what you want, then see what you can realistically can apply in your available space. As mentioned before, this is where the John Armstron layout planning books really shine.
Boy I know where you guys are coming from and you are better off than me. I am closer to Richard Petty than Bob Villa. My wood working skills blows and really have no real tools. Rebulid a engine, cut a car in half and welid it back up, body work and paint it, thats is me.
I have many problems that will make this a long project.
I work 70 Hours a week.
Have a big but badly bulit board child like board. Started out as a HO slot car track. Board is U shaped that is 19 X 4 in the center and 8 X 4 and 13 X 4 on the ends.
Don’t want to shut down the board for a redue. All I think about is getting home and hauling some freight. I do have room for more board and doing some plaining for a new 6 X 7 section and should be able to fit another 5 X 18.
I want a rural setting, with hills and water and a few bulidings. Will all so need a good sizes yard as well. Not knowing how to do what I wanted, I just bought stuff. In only 4 months I went from nothing two 30 engines and around freight cars 85, 9 passanger cars and 12 cabooses.
I Know what I want, just not sure how to get there.
Cuda Ken
Want
What I have.[:(]
cudaken,
So I see you’re a fan of K-10 Trains! Great little layout, eh? LOL
Stop by and talk with Ken if he isn’t too busy running the shop. Take some of your pictures along with you to show him. If any other modelers are there, talk with them, too.
From looking at your pictures, I’d say there isn’t anything wrong with your trackplan, it’s just your layout is flat! Trains moving at the same time can be seen from anywhere on the layout. A little bit of elevation and scenery would help make the layout more interesting to run.
You seem to have plenty of space available to you (lucky guy!). Before you start adding more flat sections, you may want to consider what you want the scenery to be like when you are done. The K-10 layout doesn’t really have much in the way of elevation changes, so that proves that you don’t have to have big mountains and deep valleys to make an interesting layout. You just need something more than flat grass to run your trains through.
Hope this helps.
Maybe I’ll run into you at K-10’s sometime.
Darrell, quiet…for now
Kalmbach Publishing (the MR people that bring us this forum) has a book about building benchwork which may be of help to you. If you’ve been out of the hobby for a while, you may have missed the new popularity of 2-inch insulation foam sheets as a replacement for the old plywood base. That’s what I ended up using. I built a simple box frame on casters, because I didn’t have the luxury of being able to attach my layout to the wall:
The layout measures 5x12 feet. The outer frame is 1x4 pine, and the interior rafters are 1x3. The rafters are set even with the bottom of the 1x4’s, so there is a 1-inch recess that the foam sheets go into, giving me some edge protection:
The pictures don’t show it very well, but I’m actually using a modified cookie-cutter approach. The base level rests on the rafters, but that’s where the subway trains run. The main level is elevated 3 inches higher, supported by “trestles” made of 1x2 lumber.
My guess is your less intimidated by the framework than you are the design of the track plan. I applaude you that you know that planning is crutial. In addition to the book, Track Planning for Realistic Operation by John Armstrong, check out Mid-Sized and Manageable Track Plans by Iain Rice. In the beginning, he talks about building your layout in relation to time and money you have availible.
Now is the time you need to do a little soul searching–before you buy anything. Look at pictures of layout and find what era and location you want to model–then choose a roadname that fits. Do a little research and see what industries that railroad would service at that time and place. Once you do that, you’ll know what to buy to fit your vision. Once you have a vision, then you are ready to start a plan.
A good place to start is to look at pictures of layouts. A site with thousands of pictures of layouts is http://www.RailImages.com.
People here will help with the plan once you have an idea of what you want to build.
Meanwhile… back at the original post…[8D]…
You really think that she might not be/get just a tad suspicious???
Some hope![:o)]
You need to be aware that there is at least a seven year gap between your son now and your son with DCC. If you have good locos etc with DCC small, sticky, fingers and puke do not make for good parent - child bonding. Somewhere to get away to to leave the world behind do though. It is also a good relationship preserver unless you start having more relationship with the trains than the lady.
7 months old you want Thomas the Tank engine blankets and soft toys. Another 18 months or so you want wooden block trains then Thomas a year or so beyond that… be subtle… sneak his future life-long interest up on him. Good days trackside are also like going fishing… but better.
You could use some of that wood block track to help you plan (not as daft as it seems)… better still…why not make him his wood block trains?
The keys to planning are:-
Look at lots of pics
Look at more pics
(That’s of the real thing not models).
(Definitely not models if you don’t want Mum to get
What you might try is one of my methods. On my website I explain [with lots of pictures] how to plan a layout so you can use it and not waste a lot of money [hopefully].
Anyhow, give it a try.
Addy is in my sig.
I hope it helps [:)]
cudaken…
I’m jealous! Two moves in less than two years (have I mentioned that before[:o)]) and I’m looking at piles of cardboard boxes and the train shed is still flat packed.
Okay… you want to run trains. No problem.
You ALSO want something better…
Why not use the module system to use some of that space to build top-quality elements to a future layout in some of that nice big space you have (I’m definitely jealous[alien]).
Why not take time and work out a track plan (at work if you have time)… work out several trackplans… keep toying with ideas until you feel you have something that is worth working on. Check that this will fit/be practical. Then start at one end and start building your modules. you don’t have to stick with modular rules you are just using the principle. There is a big advantage … the thing will grow but can be stored easily until you are ready to push out the old and bring in the new.
There’s loads of variations on this but just sort out whatever suites you.
have fun [:P]
Darrell, good chances you and I have meet at K-10. Every Wednesday between 2:00 PM and 4:00 PM I am there. I am the Big guy 6’4" X 6’4" that dress like a slob. 5 Days a week I wear a suite, when I am off, I am off. Would not mind, maybe we could hook up. I live with in a mile of K-10 in Maryville.
Ken from K-10 has helped me a lot. But I hate to imposse on him with his illness. But with his odd hours and mine as well, I can only get there one day a week. I am off Tuesdays and Wendesdays.
I would love to be there on a Thursday to run my stuff. Quade headed Proto 2000 E-6 A & B’s all powered and see what it could pull on a good track. I think is record is 146 cars with 5 Broadways, the moutain is what stopped the train.
Hope to hook up with you.
Dave, my so called lay out is a module system, each section can be pulled a part in a few minutes. Or can be lifted out of the board.
Yes, I want higher sections, one section running 6" above a nother section. Main thing that haas me worried is the grade. I have been told by a friend that I should not go over 2.5 grade. If I have done the math right 6" raise need’s 232 inches that is 19.3 feet up one side and another 19.3 feet down?
Is 2.5 grade the max I should run?
Sorry I sort of Hi Jacked this posting. In a few days I will have the Armstrong book and will do some reading.
Thanks Guys.
Few more PIC of a great Lay Out
Ok I have a question or a gripe. How many of you are purest? I thought this was a hobby? Any way enough negativity I need some opinions on track what kind should I use? also does anyone know where I can find paper templates of HO scale track sections? Does someone have a program they would be willing to share or a website where I could print them off? By the way thanks to everyone that responded to first post I really appreciate your help and input[:D]
Personally, I use layout software. This one, XtraCAD, is free and very powerful. Once designed, you can print a 1:1 drawing of your layout.
Another thing you can do is photocopy turnouts and other pieces of track and use them to layout your track. I prefer the software, because you can 1) save your work and 2) post track plans here for comments.
I still say your first step should be getting a strong vision of what you want to build, Without it, your layout will never live up to your expectations.
Atlas also has a free track planning software.
http://www.atlasrr.com/
Click on RTS download to get it. Like any track plan software it takes a small amount of time to learn to use it.
I use Code 100 Atlas track on my layout with some Model Power flex track I got on sale from Hobby Lobby (50% off). I try to use flex track where ever possible but I do have some sectional track. I have not tried Peco turnouts but people on this forum seem to like them.
what is the best dcc system
Clutch - most of us are not purists, although there are a few. The most common opinion is “it’s your layout, so have fun with it.” I’m probably more detail-oriented than I was a year and a half ago when I started all this, and my standards have certainly gotten higher. But, that’s because I’m really inspired by the work I see here and in the pages of Model Railroader and other train hobby magazines. Also, I’m happy to report that my own skill level has really improved with practice, and the hints I’ve picked up on the forums have been invaluable. A year ago, I would never have thought I could build the partially-finished layout and scenery that I have now. On the other hand, a year ago I thought I would be almost done by Christmas. Bah, humbug to that one. Christmas, 2008 maybe. By the way, one thing I’ve learned is patience.
Fire1228 - There is no “best” DCC system, just as there is no “best” locomotive. They are all very good products. The real question is, “What is the right DCC system for me?” Do a search on DCC Systems (use Advanced Search at the top) because there was another thread that addressed this question running on General Discussions just a few days ago.
Clutch73 I use ‘survayor’ it is a part of a tain sim called ‘Trainz’ from www.auran.com
I found it fun, extremely easy, and well, just plain fun.
Even the demo works for this.
And as far as being a purest hmmm. You know what? Since I began laying my own ties and track etc I never have derailments from track. Stupidity yes, bad track no LOL.
When I used flex track etc it was not like that.
Anyhow, that’s why I hand lay my track.
Also when i started in this in the 60’s there was not much out there so I learned to do some scratchbuilding. I am glad I learned it now.
[:)]
Cudaken 2.5% = 2.5 in 100 = 1 in 40 That’s not too bad but it is steep. To rise 6" you will need to multiply 6x40 =240 divide that by 12 and you get b20’
2% id better 2 in 100 = 1 in 50. To rise 6" x 6x50 = 300… dovode that by 12 and you get 25’.
Don’t forget a curved grade is effectively steeper… the sharper the curve the more the increas in steepness.
Glad you are module based. It’s a good way to go…\It’s just up to you to decide when you want to go for the detailed stuff.
Unsubtle hint… the sooner you go the soonern you will start learning the skills and getting the satisfaction.
have a nice day [:P]