John,
That ‘Sheetrock’ powdered stuff you got at Lowes - Does it dry ‘rock hard’ or is it softer and sandable like Scuptamold?
Jim
It’s sandable but it is nothing like Sculptamold. There is no texture to it. It has an advantage (for us) over sheetrock compound (though it’s used for the same purpose) in that it doesn’t easily crack.
This was built with wire screen, newspaper and durabond. It took a hammer to remove it when I had to dismantle the layout.
Mailman–or anyone–how would Structo-lite work as a base coat over screenwire or other forms? You recommended it as a finish coat over plaster–how about using it as the first coat? Thanks, Jim here.
Jim,
It works extremely well.
I have used it over screen, cardboard strips, foam, plain wood, etc. No problems at all. After all it is designed to go on wall lath in a house. 'can’t be too shoddy.
Also forget the plaster. Use it instead of plaster.
Karl
Jim, as Karl, said it works great. Pretty much over anything.
Also, by a “finish coat over plaster”, I didn’t phrase that very well. I use plaster soaked paper towels over cardboard strips for my scenery, and I apply the structo-lite over the plaster soaked paper towels (after they’ve dried).
However, once I’m out of my remaining plaster, I’m just going to soak the paper towels in the structo-lite instead.
I don’t see myself going back to plaster or Sculptamold 
Hi Mailman56701: I use plaster cloth over a cardboard strip grid, but plaster cloth is a little pricey. An alternative I’ve seen, but haven’t tried, is plain brown paper, (bags,etc) with a coating of white glue. After dry, it would provide a “hard shell” on which Structolite could be applied. The only drawback I can see, is that it may not be absorbant enough for the Structolite to set. If I used this method, I think I would just hot glue the paper to the cardboard strips, then apply Structolite. This might be a little less messy than soaking the paper towels. Then you could use a “fatter” (thicker) mix with more control. Just my opinion.
Good idea. I think you’re probably correct in that the bags wouldn’t be absorbant enough, but glueing them directly to the cardboard should work I would think.
I used to use plaster cloth that I got at Michael’s, but got tired of always going there, plus the expense, and have been using plain 'ole 1/2 sheet paper towels since, which work fine.
I use some foam too, but not much; I don’t like all the elbow grease (cutting, rasping, etc.) required for the simplest of terrain forms, that cardboard strips, etc. do on their own.
Grampys, what did you do to get those rocks on your mountains? Did you carve the hardened structolite?
and what do you mean by plaster wrap?
Hi Deadhead Greg: I used Woodland Scenics rubber rock molds and hydrocal lite. You fill the molds with hydrocal and when dry peel the molds off. Then you have a very detailed rock casting. WS has a variety of molds, from large to small. And different types and patterns of rock. I apply a big gob of Structolite-Sculptomold mix to the cardboard covered with plaster cloth. Plaster cloth is a mesh cloth with, I believe plaster of paris imbedded in it. It’s the same material doctors use to make casts for broken bones. Hobby plaster cloth is available at hobby shops, ACMoore, Michael’s, Scenic Express, Walthers, etc. It comes in a roll, and you cut it into about 6" pieces. Then you dip it in water for a few seconds, and apply over your scenery base. Over lap the pieces and allow to dry. When, dry you have a relatively hard shell. It’s absorbant, there fore a good base for Structolite. You can also use Structolite to make rocks. I just apply big gobs of Structolite to my base, overlapping them and allow to dry. You can also work Structolite, while it’s still wet with a small artists trowel, (that’s what I use). I just work it horizontilly till I get the look I want. You can still work it after it starts to set up, but you’re more limited in what you can do. Here’s a few pics of in process scenery.
I can’t answer your question about the powdered stuff, but I find your comment about the Sculptimold being softer and sand able kind of odd. I’ve heard others make that same comment too.
I’ve found it to be rock hard and VERY difficult to sand compared to plaster, hydrocal or that Durams putty stuff.
Thank you!!! This is the kind of stuff I wish I could see more. Its very encouraging to see what you were able to create using the cardboard strip/plaster cloth method. How did you attach your rock castings, though?
Hi Deadhead Greg: Thanks for your interest. I use the Structolite-Sculptomold mixture just like you would use mortar to attach bricks. This stuff is so sticky. I spray the backs of the rock castings with “wet” water, then “butter” (apply a thin coating) of the mixture to the backs of the castings , and then apply the whole thing to the mixture that was applied to the base coat. Push the casting into the mix and rotate it back and forth a little. I try to make it appear that the rock casting is about half buried in the “ground”. Some of the mix will ooze out around the casting. You can remove it or just blend it into the surrounding terrain. That’s what I do. You can use the same method to have your castings overlap, which I also do. It took me 3 tries before I got the hang of what looked right. In 1 spot I’ve got 2 tries buried before I got what I thought looked natural to me. Oh, I use a fairly stiff artists brush to blend the mix around the castings. You have some time after the mix starts to set up. If it’s a little too stiff to work, just dip your brush in some water to blend around the castings. Then I wet the castings with a rubbing alcohol, India ink mix. Either spray or use a brush to apply ink wash. Then I apply my basic earth color, but I rewet with ink wash before it dries. You’ll have to experiment to get the color you’re after. You will know it when you see it. After you get the color you like, the final step is to dry brush the casting with white or gray to highlight the castings. Good luck!
Sculptamold is lighter, softer, and easier to use than the various plasters or sheet rock products IMO. Plus it has the advantage that if you want to change your scenery, just spray it with wet water, let set for ten minutes, and remove it with a putty knife. No hammer needed – no dust to put up with. Cellu-Clay is great, too, but it takes longer to dry.
Clay-Crete is about the same as Sculptimold too.(made by the same company)
Grampys, do you wait until the Structolite base has dried, or do you place the castings while the base is still wet?
Hi Deadhead Greg: You could probably do either, but I prefer to place the castings while the base is wet.