Glass for Number Boards

Alright, I’m gonna take my first steps towards building my first locomotive (F2A numbered 700 for my railroad, California and Pacific).I’m getting the big things out of the way first (handrails, the shell, fans, and the horn), and I already ran into a problem. Seeing as I’m a really freak for lighting, I want to make the number boards light up. But, there’s no aftermarket glass (that I’ve found, at least), so any advice on fabricating it?

EDIT: Seeing the rarity of the chicken wire grille, I’m most likely to make a F7. Come to think of it, that might work better than a F2, because I’m also planning on slapping together some SP F7’s (possiby some SF Warbonnets), too. I will make number 700, but maybe at a later time (maybe when that grille is easier to get).

Hi, Clipper and…

[#welcome]

This Highliners part contains glazing for EMD F3 and F7 numberboards.

https://www.walthers.com/quot-glass-quot-for-a-b-units

Highliner parts are available on a sporadic basis at best. Ebay may be your best option.

Granted, not a very economical option. You could certainly file and sand your own clear styrene to fit. Like you, I also enjoy seeing lighted number boards.

Microscale offers number board decals:

http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MD&Product_Code=87-205&Product_Count=&Category_Code=

What is the manufacturer of the locomotive you are using as the basis for your model?

Hope that helps,

Ed

Any clear Plastic or Styrene will work. Stay away from Acrylic, it cracks and chips easily.

Mel

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

Bakersfield, California

I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

Go figure, they are there. I never noticed the number board glass there. Thanks! Now I gotta watch Ebay and other sites like a hawk.

Hey Clipper:

You might try these guys too. You didn’t specify which shell you are using but LaserKit has quite a selection. Their stuff fits incredibly well. Often no glue is required, but you have to get the right match.

http://www.laserkit.com/laserkit.htm

Dave

I have never tried this for a “number board” that is lit but I have used it for a replacement Athearn GP38 number board as well as an RDC window and I might give the lit number board a go!

  1. Hollow out carefully the plastic in the numberboards on the loco shell by drilling and cleaning up.

  2. Cover the openings with masking tape on the outside and ensure they are tight

  3. From the inside, pour in some clear drying PVA glue and allow to dry perhaps one at a time to keep the glue level.

  4. Remove the masking tape and the lens cover should be clear.

5 I make my own number boards but in this case I would use printer compatible overhead transparency material and print the numbers as you want them. Cut them out and a tiny amount of PVA should be enough to hold them.

My two cents worth

Cheers from Australia

Trevor

Trevor:

My brain is slow today. What is PVA glue? Does it go by any other names?

Thanks

Dave

PVA glue is very similar to good old Elmers glue, save for one important fact.

Pit never yellows or discolors, so it dries clear, and stays clear.

HobbyLobby, etc… should have it, and most brands are labeled as PVA Glue.

[(EDIT) At least in the states…]

Thanks Ricky.

Is it similar to Canopy Glue?

Dave

Hello Dave

I used the term PVA glue as the brand names are very likely to be different between Australia, Canada and the US. Selleys Aquadhere is the most popular brand here. I would think you could go into a craft shop and ask for craft glue. It is usually white and dries clear but woodworking variants can be a yellow colour

Canopy glue AFAIK is a glue for avoiding smears etc on model airplane canopies although I have never had cause to seek it out.

Cheers from Australia

Trevor

Thanks Trevor.

Dave