Many years ago a friend in the hobby used a compound…a semi liquid or a gel of sorts in a plastic type of syringe. The stuff was used as a glass filler for small windows, headlight lenses, number boards, etc. It was applied from the inside edges of an opening and worked inward till the opening was filled. It would cure to a clear solid. I remember he used this stuff extensively to create clear backing for number boards and portholes in his extensive fleet of F units
Is anyone familiar with this material? What is it and is it still available?
Could be canopy glue. In addition to securing clear plastic without hazing, it can also form small windows as you describe. Testor’s and others make it.
At one time I used something made by Testor’s that was a cement and window maker. It would be applied just as you described. However after ten or fifteen years the ‘glass’ has become yellowed and breaks at the slightest touch.
I do appreciate the leads. I heard of canopy cement but didn’t know anything about it. Krystal Klear…it just hadn’t occurred to me. Anyway. When I go to Carson City tomorrow I’ll definitely be making a side trip to the hobby shop. I intend on trying both and see which works better.
Just my two cents worth but I have tried Krystal Klear and I am not quite sold on the results. The windows I did with it did not come out with flat glass. The surface tension of the gel causes it to be thicker around the outside edges and thinner in the center, resulting in a glass that is slightly concave. I used it on a control tower with a detailed interior and the distortion caused by the concave surface effectively obscured the inside details.
If you want really good looking glass, use the real thing. Ngineering sells .005" thick plate glass in small sheets That gives you a truly flat surface with the reflections that make it look real (it is real!). The stuff is fairly easy to work with but I recommend buying a diamond scriber to cut the glass. It will take some practise to do locomotive windshields.
Canopy Cement will also not give you a “flat glass” look. However, that can be used to your advantage. I have a number of buildings with large, multi-pane windows. When I glaze these with Canopy Cement, I get a very clear window that transmits light from the inside of the structure, but doesn’t let you see into the building. This is perfect for structures close to the front of the layout that you want to light, but don’t want to bother with interior details.
I’ve used the Testors “Window Maker” and cement on rolling stock such as cabooses and some small building windows. As mentioned, it does set thinnner in the center, but I’ve been satisfied with the results for the applications I’ve used it for. It was mentioned also about being very brittle after years, well, mine are brittle right away, so don’t handle it a lot. Whatever you use, do any weathering and dull-coating first, otherwise you’ll have dull-coated windows… don’t ask how I know[:-^]!
Seems to me that all these products are basically the same…Gloss medium. You can buy it at craft shops under the name of “MOD PODGE” Be sure to get the gloss. The matt is the same as what you use to glue down ballast. It does dry thinner in the center, but i add a tiny bit to the center after the 1st coat dries. It is not perfect, but it saves a lot of work when doing small vehicle windows. jerry