I am deep into construction of a few modules and am using blue styrofoam for the tops.
I did some reading of the books and magazines and research on this forum for types of adhesive. The results turned up everything but superglue. I am about to glue the roadbed and track but have been uneasy about what to use so I conducted an experiment.
I used some of the Woodland Scenics Foam Glue to attach to the tables. Don’t waste your money on this. Clearly a marketing gimmic relabeling a thick Elmers all purpose white glue. I also used some Elmers wood glue, both interior and exterior. Oh, and a bottle of Loctite Power lock (?) glue.
To glue the track and roadbed to the foam, I tried Liquid Nails for Projects, Elmers Interior Wood Glue, Elmers Exterior Wood Glue, and regular old Elmers all-purpose white glue (you know, the stuff you used to eat in school when you were a kid).
I used a putty knife to spread a thin layer of each onto a scrap of foam then laid on the cork roadbed, another layer of glue, then laid on the track. In each case, the layer was thin enough that no adhesive came up through the ties.
A week later here’s what I found:
Liquid Nails did not attack the foam, not even the high solvent syrup that forms at the tip of the tube between uses. It was excellent to work with because it is very tacky which meant little time involved once the track was layed. I was able to lift it with some effort, and once a corner was up, it did not pass the twist test. One other note is that it does dry opaque leaving a brown film on the surface. I was partial to this over a white film that would be left by white adhesive caulk, and since all I could find was silicone based adhesive caulk on this particular trip to the gittin place. I rate it a B.
Elmers Interior and Exterior Glue both worked fine but the exterior required some weight to hold down the track until the glue had set. The interior did not but it could have been
I like the liquid nails (foam compatable) for larg blocks and to any thing that will be permanant( in my case the foam board to the lader frame) . It dryes slow when thick. The white glue is good for the road beds and scienery. the good thing with white glue is that on non porous surfaces it will “let go” with a little prying. as I am just starting and making mistakes this a plus for me. However it grips well enough to hold bed and other modling in place. Sure would not use it if any force were appliyed.
I use Elmer’s yellow glue to glue my foam to the wood benchwork. Probably use that to glue any permanent scenery blocks as well. For my roadbed and track I use cheap latex caulk.
I am now using LiquidNails for attaching the foam to the bench work only, I did use it for roadbed and track untill I had to relocate a piece of track[B)][xx(][V][banghead],
Now I’m using something called “tacky glue” I picked it up at a craft store, I’m not sure
but I think it is just extra thick white glue.
I’m using pine lumber benchwork, pink 2-inch foam, WS foam roadbed, flextrack and Liquid Nails for Projects. Same adhesive for everything, and so far I’m happy. It holds when I leave it there, and doesn’t complain too much when I make a mistake and have to rip it up and start over. Don’t minimize the importance of this. Ever make a mistake?
Yeah, there are products that will last until the final ride of the 4 Horsemen, but I like this particular combinanation of tenacity and forgiveness.
I use Liquid Nails in the blue & gold tube, says it it their best Multi-Purpose, and it has Foam listed as uses. I just finished gluing down 2" foam to my 4x8 tables, works like a champ.
I use silicone caulk for foam to foam and foam to wood bonds, and latex caulk to add track. I too have tried every adhesive I can find for foam bonding, and 100% silicone is by far the best.
Here’s a question/comment. In another forum,a brownish latex paint was used to coat the foam as a base for ground cover. When do you do this and what do you cover(foam roadbed too)? Adhesion properties will be different I suspect. Just about to start the track laying process on 2" foam.
ok, i should ask this cause i have already went off down the road with my layout in progress, but what is the purpose of gluing the foam to the bench? i didnt do this to mine cause i felt if i messed up the foam i could take off what i want and go get another 4x8 sheet and start over.
Yes, i am using the cheap 2 inch white stuff for my first project just as a training aide to start out but, the question why, is there a rason that mybe before i get to far i should glue mine down?
thanks
Chris
Liquid nails to attach the foam to the plywood (if used). The Liquid nails needs to be spread somewhat, if you just apply it out of the caulking gun and lay your foam down, sometimes it will dry bubbled and your foam doesn’t sit even and flush. DAP adhesive caulk for the roadbed to foam. Still, I don’t care what anyone says, if you have to remove track to correct a problem it’s a pain in the [censored] [:D]
I recently glued my blue foam board to a plywood table by using 3M’s Super 77 spray adhesive. This product works real well. Note, I applied the spray adhesive over the entire board surface and let it set up for few seconds and then laid the foam directly on the board. I put some weights on it and let it dry for 24 hours. This product can be found in most places where photo supplies are sold and/or art supplies are sold. I have not yet tried using this on laying track or cork board yet. When spraying you should make sure you have good ventilation. When I sprayed I also wore a nose and mounth mask. Hope this helps.
I use wood glue for foam to foam. For track I now use plain old white caulk to put the track down. It is cheap, simple and set time is great especially when putting in flex on those curves. Put a small bead down a couple of feet at a time and then spread very thin with a putty knife.
