Is there a glue that can be used on the plastics the model trains ar made of. That actually work. I have used a number of them from CA to Tenerzx 7a with no sucess.
If you’re glueing styrene to styrene, Tenax is really good… but you have to ensure that the parts are clean (ie no release agent or paint on parts where the joint will be).
for anything else to styrene, a CA type glue would probably be the best.
what is it that you’re trying to glue together? if we know that, we can point you to the “best” glue for the application.
Depending on the type of plastic, there are several good ‘liquid’ glues:
- Tenex-7R - Very powerful, great for gluing styrene parts on edge.
- Micro-Mark ‘Same Stuff’ - appears to be the same as Tenex-7R
- Testors Liquid - Not as powerful, but takes longer to set-up and is good for gluing large plastic structures(Walthers Cornerstone).
- MEK - Works great - The fumes are not good for you!
All of the above work by ‘melting/welding’ the plastic. I would not use the ‘tube’ type plastic cement(stringy mess). The ‘super glue’ stuff(CA) does not do a good job as it really has no ‘shear strength’ and does not ‘weld’ the plastic parts together.
Jim
The “Same Stuff” is actually the same as Ambroid’s ProWeld (currently not available), but is similar to Tenax, fast acting and will work with many different plastics.
It is best to have the surfaces to be glued already mated (touching), then brush on the glue on the backside of the joint, (the cement will be drawn into the joint by capilary action), then press and hold the parts together for about 15-30 seconds, let dry for at least 30 minutes, allow overnite to fully harden. Liquid plastic cements don’t work well if if you apply the cement first and then bring the pieces together (unless you’re really quick) as the cement will evaporate quickly. As you’re new to using these cements, I would recommend using Testors Liquid Plastic Cement to start as it evaporates a bit slower giving you a little more time to make the joint. Plastic cements are solvents and disolve the surfaces of the plastic to make a “weld” joint. As already mentioned, scrape away any paint on the surfaces to be joined.
For dissimilar materials, CAs and epoxy are two good glues. If you need time adjust the pieces into position, I would recommend 5-minute epoxy.
Isn’t MEK simply the main ingredient in Tenax7R? MEK being Methyl Ethyl Keytone?
I would think any of the glues marketed for using with plastic kits, particularly styrene, would have a certain amount of MEK (methyl-ethyl ketone). Some would have more than others for more durable bonds by melting and fusing more of the styrene mass at the ‘weld’. I like the Loktite gel CA in the small grey and blue squeeze bottle. I have used Ambroid, even Gorilla Glue. My last resort go-to for tough jobs where strength is required is two-part epoxies. Not necessarily for styrene kits, but when you need to bond metal mounting pins or brass eyelets in drilled holes, for example where the material with the hole is a glass/ceramic product. If you score styrene well and place a rod of thin blocking into the corner where two walls are meant to meet, epoxy is very strong, and coupled with the rod block, will add immensely to the toughness of the finished model.
Crandell
I have several Bachmann Thomas seres engines. I have been trying to glue broken parts back on. With no luck for holding. I hav eused the Tenax with no sucess. Also, I havew build large scale radio control aircraft for years so I ahve used several different brands of CA’s. The CAs will work as long as you do nogthing but let the part sit and do not move it at all. Though I have not tried expoies , I have use expoies on plastic parts in the aircraft and have found that they really do not stick very well to plastic.
All of the replies have been very informative. I might try the MEK (straight) and see what happens. And there just might not be a answer. One would thiink that the manufactures would either market a glue for their products or at least recommend one, but I guess that would not help them sell replacements or new engines.
Well I would not say I am new to using these cements. I have built a many plasitc models for dispaly at the local hobby shop,building Radio control aircraft for over 20 years. I even worked part time at the local hobby shop in time past selling plastic models and model trains. Though I have gotten out of the plastic models for a while. I continued with the R/C aircraft.
I will have to admitted I have not had any good luck with gluing the parts back on th emodel trains. The middle grand son loves the Thomas trains but at 4 he is a litle tough on them.
I was told the “not made any longer” story by the local hobby shop. But I believe that you can find it if you look. The Walthers on-line catalog says that it is “in transit”: http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/130-110
And when I put Pro-Weld in Google, I came up with a several places that claim to have it in stock.
The glues/cements we have mentioned are the proper ones for styrene models. The one exception are engineering plastics like Delrin and Celcon, these require a special CA, one brand is Cypox, it is specially formulated for these types of plastics and of course not cheap.
In any case, if you’re trying to glue a small part back on that broke off, you still may not have any luck because there is too little surface to make a solid permanent bond. Glue alone may not do it. You may have to re-inforce the joint with a pin. You’ll need a tiny drill bit (#76), a pinvise and some .015" brass wire. Drill a hole into the broken end and a corresponding hole in the loco, dip a pin in a drop of CA and insert it in the hole in the part, put a small drop of CA on the end of the protruding pin and stick it in the hole in the loco. With the re-inforcing pin the part should stay put.
Train models are more delicate than RC cars and can’t take heavy abuse. Maybe Brio trains would be more age appropriate? (no insult intended).
No the main ingredient is methylene chloride. It is a distant relative of chloroform.
Joe
There is a big sticker on my bottle do I couldn’t see the ingredients. When I used to work in Environmental consulting in Rochester NY, I recall Kodak used Methylene Chloride as their film solvent. I also did soil vapor surveys with a gas chromatograph and had to mix up my own field standards and one of them was a chlorinated suite that included Mehylene Chloride, as well as Dichloroethene, Trichloroethene, and Tetrachrloroethene (Perc). Vinyl Chloride was so volatile it was hard to accurately detect.
Is it just me, or has anyone else felt like the liquid cements are a little thicker than they used to be. I have sworn by the Testor’s liquid cement (the ex-Pactra, in the bottle) for years, but lately I am having a hard time getting it to spread by capillary action. I find I have to hold the joint apart slightly to get the cement to wick in. Same thing with the Plastruct cements. I wonder if they had to change their formula to satisfy some new regulation. Guess I’ll have to start using Tenax-7.
One other thing. Don’t turn up your nose to the old Testor’s in the tube. I rarely use it, but there are times when working on a big project, I have to apply the cement before assembly, and require an open time of up to a minute. Sure it can make a mess if you’re not careful, but if you need it to grab and hold fast, or fill gaps, there’s nothing better.
Don
When all else fails use Walthers Goo…
Unless Testor’s changed its formula since I last bought its cement, it is a xylene based cement.
Whichever adhesive you end up using, make sure the surfaces are clean, dry, and paint-free. You can also rough them up with a hobby knife, sanding stick, drill bit, rotary tool, etc. to enable the glues to “grip” better.
A glue I’m using, that has no noxious fumes. (Smells like Orange/citrus) and is claimed to be non-toxic is:
“Safe Weld” Plastic Welder by Ambroid. It may be a bit slower to cure and hold under finger pressure but it’s passed the durability test with (literally flying) colors! (Model Power water tank kit, glued and thrown to the floor several times. Of course there’s absolutely no delicate detail on this kit, but you get the idea…
I can glue on the kitchen table with my wife present.
I had no luck with Tenax either. Recently a group member told me to keep it cold in the fridge. Slows down it’s almost instantaneous evaporation and be sure the joints are tight. I’ll give it a try again some day.
A glue I’m using, that has no noxious fumes. (Smells like Orange/citrus) and is claimed to be non-toxic is:
“Safe Weld” Plastic Welder by Ambroid. It may be a bit slower to cure and hold under finger pressure but it’s passed the durability test with (literally flying) colors! (Model Power water tank kit, glued and thrown to the floor several times. Of course there’s absolutely no delicate detail on this kit, but you get the idea…
I can glue on the kitchen table with my wife present.
I saw Sinbad glue exhibited at a local trainshow and was impressed. I’ve been using it for most things lately. It can repair things like broken plastic handrails with good strength. I’ve even repaired broken catches on Walthers passenger car rooves. It seems to work on just about any surface. Expensive tho.
Hal