Is gluing the track onto the plywood an okay alternative to nailing it in? Because I don’t want to have to go to all the trouble of nailing again for my new section. Are there any other good alternatives?
sure you can glue it down, a lot of people do that. In fact, that’s what I’m doing.
I would glue down roadbed such as cork or Woodland Scenics TrackBed first. It will help reduce the noise level of the trains and will run smoother than on bare plywood. Any type of glue will work. I am using plain white glue to do this.
soumodeler
The Southern Serves the South!
Instead of using “glue”, try using latex caulk. It acts as a sound deadener, and while it’s grip is just fine to hold down track, it isn’t nearly as strong as regular adhesives. “glue” tends to REALLY hold down track, making it virtually impossible to take it up without destroying it. Latex caulk (no silicone content, any brand/color will do, the cheaper the better!) will allow the track to come right up with a little bit of prying with a spatula.
And remember to NOT glue down your switches!
I glue cork roadbed to the plywood with plain white glue, using small nails driven part-way in to hold the cork in place until the glue dries (about 20-30 minutes). I glue the track to the cord roadbed using LocTite Power Grab construction adhesive (using a caulk gun). This stuff is pretty tacky right out of the tube, so temporary nails are rarely needed while it dries. However, it does not reach full strength for about 15 minutes, so you have plenty of time to adjust the track. If you need to make a change later, gently pry up the track with a putty knife. I’ve heard of people using PL200, PL300 etc. (similar to Liquid Nails), but I don’t know how tacky that stuff is or how long you have to work with it before it sets.
And, as orsonroy said, I do not glue down my turnouts. I still nail them.
I like Aleene’s Tacky Glue for the job, but it does take 24 hours to set up. It stays resiliant and is water soluble. I get it in the Crafts section at Wal-mart.
I used a few small gobs of PL300 cuz that’s what I had in quantity for gluing my styrospan extruded foam down. It took a while to dry in my dampish basement, but was fairly hard when done. I didn’t want the track completely glued in case I needed to make modifications to the lines; hence the very few gobs, and not spead out with a spatula as advisd in the how-to’s.
Im using woodland scenics foam, and I know that I shouldnt glue down my switches, how do I tack them down ? I cant put track nails through the foam right? I was thinking maybe putting latex on a few ties just to keep it down.
maybe you guys have some soloutions
Thanks
Jeremy
There are many ways to lay track. I glue cork roadbed down on plywood using white or yellow glue. I use push pins to hold it in place while the glue dries. Then I smooth it with a surform (not sure I spelled that right) tool - the one that’s a small plane. Then I lay the flextrack soldering most joints. I fasten it down using track nails - I predrill a slightly undersized hole through the tie, the roadbed, and into the plywood; then I use a nailset and hobby hammer to gently tap it into place. Some of my track has been in place for 10 years using this method and I have had no problem with it.
Enjoy
Paul
A little caulk on the first few ties won’t hurt a switch Jeremy, but I’ve found that except on really long switches (I’m using Peco mediums and longs, which are about #6 and #8) I don’t need any adhesive to hold them in place, so long as my benchwork is level. Besides, once you ballast, they’ll be glued down well enough.
thanks for the tip ray
Jeremy