Hey all happy tuesday,
What should i use to glue my track down to foam road bed???
Thanks alex
The cheapest latex caulk you can find. Smear it lightly on the roadbed, and press the track down onto it. Use track pins or weights (magazines, tin cans?) to keep it in place. Let it dry for about 12-34 hours, before using the track. If you decide, later, that the track isn’t where it should be, you will probably be able to get it back off the roadbed with a little shim and some prying, although it would be far easier directly on MDF spline roadbed, and probably easier on cork.
I use yellow wood glue. It has served me very well and is easy to pull up.
Good old plain white Elmers always works for me. And easy to pull up too.
I used yellow wood glue to glue down the roadbed to the plywood it was wicked hard to get up! Maybe its diffrent stuff? Tim
I don’t like gluing track at all. I’m a poor planner andI like to be able to change my mind . At least till the ballast goes on ,then its glued.[:)]
I use adhesive caulk spread very thin with a putty knife. Plain cheap latex caulk works OK too but holds less well. (This might be a good thing [:)]).
Be sure to use clear or translucent. I accidently used a tube of white and panicked for a while after it dried. Of course the ballast covered most of it and paint / groundcover the rest. The problem is most of us ballast last and that white sure shows up in the interim.
Karl
What kind of roadbed, cork ? I use Woodland Scenics trackbed foam. Works great. I use Tightbond yellow glue.
may be totally wrong but i used a low temp glue gun. worked well for me. been down for 5 yrs. dried pretty quick though. sort of hard to remove to. dave
As of last Friday night our club has changed its standards from track will be “glued down with an adhesive like matte medium that doesn’t turn brittle with age” to "glued down with matte medium. Someone used the latex caulk method for our new set of double crossovers. No problem that was within standards - until we want to just lift a small part of it (just under the points) for a repair. The ballast was soaked in water and sucked away with a wet-dry vac. The adjacent turnout that was put down with matte medium had a putty knife run under it cleaning and freeing the parts in need of repair. When the putty knife was put under the turnout that was put down with caulk it turned into a mucky mess. The caulk would not scrape out from under the ties. Then even when we thought it was all clean it wouldn’t lay down flat again - meaning there was still more caulk under it that we couldn’t see. We ended up picking out the caulk one tiny piece at a time with tweezers. It took almost 4 hours to do what was a 20 minute job with the other matte medium turnout. So the moral of the story is if using caulk plan on taking out whole sections of track if a repair has to be made. We will not be using it again.