I’ve built structure kits so far without adding window material but am getting ready to try add lighting so will first add material to each structure. I plan to use clear acetate sheet that I obtained rather than the variety of materials supplied with the kits. I tried the Testors Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker on one and made a bit of a mess of that by moving the material too much so cement shows near the edges of the openings. So, what glue is recommended, assuming I do a better job of placing and minimizing smearing. Is CA better as it might be stickier and faster drying? I’ve heard of canopy cement but don’t know if that’s what the Testors is.
I use clear styrene plastic to glaze my windows. The clear plastic boxes the Entenmann’s Danish pastry comes oin works well. I glue it in place with ordinary styrene welder cement, the clear watery stuff that comes in little bottles with a brush in the cap. Just touch the brush to the edge of the styrene and capillary action sucks it right underneath, but keeps it underneath and off the “show” part of the glazing.
Canopy Cement and equivalents have become sort of a standard for cementing (gluing) thin plastic window glazing materials (I mean stuff like clear acetate and styrene - not sure if it works long-term with microscope slide glass or plexiglass).
It doesn’t “attack” (fog) or etch the glazing like CA or regular styrene cement can and dries really clear - OK, if you look really close you can see any that seeped out, so be need when adding the canopy cement.
I use it whenever I can for securing plastic glazing.
I agree with Chutton01 G-S HYPO Cement, (canopy cement) can’t beat it, not a CA. I glue clear acetate plastic winshields in my 1/87 Alloy-forms white metal casting and many Pewter casting truck models and now use it for window apps…Good for jewelry,beading,watch crystals optics,industrial applications. Comes in a 9ml tube with a hypo needle applicator on the end.
I also use Canopy Cement. It dries clear. When there’s a bit of residue around the edges, I use the tip of a toothpick to remove it after it sets up. It will stay soft enough for that for a few hours, at least.
I don’t know, I’ve just used the Testors plastic cement, the kind that comes in a tube and apply it carefully around the inside of the opening with a tooth pick. Works for me! For glazing, I just use the Evergren clear acetate. Seems like one package, which contains two sheets, has provided me a lifetime supply of the stuff
I am, however intrigued by that canopy cement, sounds good for many applications in addition to attaching window glazing. Where can you get that glue?
Pretty much anywhere selling hobby supplies. You were already given a link to one brand in Frank’s post above, this amazon link is to the brand that I use.
I use a toothpick or small brush to apply it, then apply the glazing with tweezers or a little vacuum pick-up - something like this (when I can find mine - it’s missing once again, dangit!
That’s exactly what that Testor’s stuff is – canopy glue. The dispenser nozzole works pretty good, but be sure to recap so that the glue in the tip doesn’t clog it by drying. It’s what I usually use, although the Hypo stuff is good, as well as other stuff like Pacer Formula 560. I run a bead along the edges most of the time, but with smaller pieces a dot at each corner works.
If you’re at this point, you should also be considering “shine through” light control, depending on what the structure is made off. Not too much an issue other than cracks with wood, but plastics often need help. Sometimes I paint the interior flat black, but that’s easier before things are built. Sometimes I use black construction paper. I find that the black paper, with cutouts for windows, can be glued with canopy glue and work well.
Evergreen’s clear sheets are styrene. Acetate may appear to be the same when new, but it yellows over time and is not, in my opinion, a good choice.
I use lacquer thinner to attach the material to styrene structures. Most plastic kits come with cast styrene window material, and it’s clear enough for most situations, even if you add interior lighting. For those kits with windows as separate parts, it’s easiest to paint the windows while still on the sprue, as you can cut masking tape into thin strips and mask the gluing surfaces of the frames:
It’s also much easier to affix the “glass” in place before installing the windows in the structure. If you wish to substitute thin styrene sheet, such as is offered by Evergreen, do so before installing the windows. Press the “glass” against the window casting, and touch a brush with a moderate amount of solvent-type cement to the edges while maintaining pressure for a few seconds - this assures a strong bond without oozing.
For non-styrene structures (wood, plaster, resin, etc.) I prefer contact cement - you apply it to both parts where it’s needed, and don’t bring the two together until the cement has dried sufficiently. While careful placement is necessary when installing the glass, the bond is permanent and there’s no oozing.
Although canopy glue or clear parts cement does dry clear, I have found that any that bleeds onto the visible portions of the clear glazing leaves visible points of distortion on the otherwise flat glazing material. So looking for an alternative method, I discovered that Woodland Scenics Accent Glue is great for installing clear glazing. I apply this glue sparingly to the back side of the window frames and let it dry. I then position the glazing material over the window frame and carefully press it into place. Since the Accent Glue is already dry, it cannot ooze out onto the visible portions of the glazing material. If for some reason I incorrectly position the glazing material, I simply peel up the glazing material, clean off any Accent Glue that sticks to the glazing, then try again. Long term, I’ve never had any glazing fall off using this glue.
You might be a bit different, but you are in good company. I’ve been viewing a lot of model vehicle builders’ channels in my quest for better painting and finishing techniques (guys like Chris Chapmann and Doctor Cranky - hey, if EyeGore the dog is the Doctor’s lab-RAT-ory assistant, home come don’t we ever see him airbrushing…), and they both use Mod-Podge for various tasks including cementing in windows. Toothpicks and small brushes/microbrushes are the applicators of choice.
I use clear plastic document covers and Testors or other liquid cement. I have buildings and cabooses that are more than 20 years old and never had a problem with the windows coming loose. I have also cut most of the bristles from the applicator so only a drop or two is applied when gluing parts together. Hold the window in position, pushing in the center and the glue only wicks to where you want the glue to go.
Yes, Wayne, I stand corrected; probably says that it is styrene on the package. I guess I’ve been using the “acetate” word as kind of a household name.
On another note, I very much enjoy your posts and your photos almost every time you post. Great work!
I do like the canopy cement, but if all you have nearby is a Michaels or Moore, as stated before Mod-Podge is also a worthy alternative. Always be flexible.
The vaccuum pick-up tool is indeed useful - IF you have a relatively straight shot at the location. It does have good suction so parts won’t drop off annoyingly, but it doesn’t have a right angle bend for use in, say, adding windows to a Jordan HO scale city bus (then you use tweezers, or cobble something together with post-it-notes and microbrushes).
And since I don’t really have a tool box for hobby tools (as opposed to a toolbox for DIY Home Repair, which I do have), well sadly it’s not in the toolbox…
