Can it be done reliably? I need to attach a terminal strip to the underside of my benchwork. The problem is that if I nail or screw it in, the other side of the nail/screw will jut out on the top. Railroads generally don’t have giant nails or screws sticking out of the ground. [;)]
(Note: I can’t attach the strip to the legs of the benchwork, because there are none. My benchwork is a large plywood boxframe that rests atop a drafting table.)
Attach a smaller piece of wood under your benchwork, say a 1" x 3", with Liquid Nails or even carpenters glue, that way you can screw the terminal strip to the 1 x 3 without the screws poking thru the benchwork.
if you place some sort of material on the wood then you should be ok. I have found that adding a dab of acrylic paint or something to the wood prevents the wood from just sucking in the glue like a sponge. Then just superglue the acrylic part of the wood to the plastic…works great with cardboard, might work with wood…test it first though to make sure you get desired effect and that it can hold. I have done this on very small things in the past and dont know how well it would hold up with larger items.
Could you somebody to tell me wich solvents, gluing as commercial liquid cements.
For example metyl ethyl cetone is one but has high risk to carcinogenus properties,
What product is the same to use in plastic parts, but obviously much more less dangerous?
I hope your answer soon. Thanks
Liquidcross, you may want to attach the terminal strip to a verticle surface of your benchwork, it will be easier to work on. They do make short screws, and its nice if you ever want to move or reuse the terminal strip. All of the ones on my layout have been used many times. I still have most of the old screws and the wires!![:D]
Superglue WILL NOT WORK on wood. Wood’s too pourous, and even if you seal the surface, you’ll end up with a VERY brittle glue bond. In fact, I’d suggest NOT glueing a barrier strip to anything, since it’s prone to banging, jerking, tugging, etc., all of which will eventually pop the strip off the wood.
Your best bet is still to use screws. If they protrude through the wood on the other side, just take a Dremel heavy-duty cutoff wheel and cut them flush with the wood surface. Either that, or paint them up as baby pine trees!
I wish you had of told me this years ago, I use thick (or Gel) CA for attaching plastics to wood all the time.
I have been an avid woodworking enthusiast for more than 40 years and frequently use CA for plastic-to-wood bonding since CA came on the market. I use Epoxy for metal-to-wood bonding and yellow wood glue for wood-to-wood.
I stand behind my privious post – “Epoxy or CA either one will work.” [:D]