god i that it when this happens

pulled out my proto 2000 2-8-8-2 , i love this loco , no its not a big boy or challanger when it comes to glamor but i bought it new in 1999 i think but it would run , with dirty wheels & has great low speed capabilities ,& over all my best running loco. but i digress anyways i hadnt run it in about 2 years ,i pull it out & plugged the loco & tender together & put it on the track ,with a big smile [:D]… …

NOTHING …[:(] I made sure it was securely plugged in i hate those plugs by the way couldnt they come up with a better more rugged way … so i cleaned the wheels & put it back on , nothing , just to be sure i threw on my MTH SD70ace &that came run on & moved while the proto just sat there [U] UGGH

Well, at least it did not go to the end of the line and fall on the floor.

I’m sure you will fix it!

ROAR

Is the decoder a QSI? Try a double press of F6. I may be in a coma.

Otherwise, try a reset.

Crandell

its DCC READY i havent put a decoder in it yet , so its dc issue :frowning:

Loose wire. Easy to fix.

ROAR

Maybe easy to fix, but maybe not that easy to find. First, remove the shell from the mechanism and tender, and look for a loose wire.

If there is a DCC plug, check if that is loose

If you do not see a loose wire, get out your multimeter and set to continuity. Check each current path between the wheels and the motor. When you find one with no continuity, check the parts of that path - like is there continuity between the wheel and the where the wire to the motor begins (the most likely problem area). Then continue checking the path to the motor.

Also, check that there is continuity through the motor.

Check that plug again! If you put just the tender on the track does the reverse light come on in reverse? Look very carefully at the plug. Look for bent or pushed in pins or even a DCC dummy plug that came loose.

Pete

Eh… LION was repairing some dead flat screen monitors. Those things (the older ones) are lit with florescent lamps, and the ballast is built in to the circuit boards. The LION was told that you could break those things open find the damaged capacitors (the ones that have swollen tops) and replace them with like kind. LION did that and two of them worked and are in use at my desk right now, the third one was as dead as a door nail, and the fourth one would light up but was a horrible red color. Those two I passed on to our maintenance department. The dead one came right back to me, apparently I had forgotten to reconnect the AC when I closed it up again.

Wires are hard to find, and even LIONS loose track of what they are doing.

BTW: If you are in the market for flat screen monitors, get the newer LED type, they have no ballast in them, are lighter and very much slimmer. And the prices are coming down.

Now back to your regularly scheduled locomotive.

ROAR

I think I know the feeling.

I have been working on putting lights into a Mack C transport truck cab, and I mean all the lights, and with working signal lights to boot. There are 13 separate points of light including the roof top clearance lights, head lights, tail lights and signal lights. There are 16 wires coming out of the bottom of the cab plus five fibre optic lines.

I tested all the lights before putting the body back on the frame and everything worked fine. Getting the body back on required a bit more force than I wanted to use. Turns out I shouldn’t have forced things because I broke one of the headlight wires right at the LED. Of course, I had CA’d the thing together, and the errant LED was buried in epoxy.

So far I have managed to pry the body off to get to the broken wire, and I have dug out the bad LED. This will be the fourth time I have replaced that particular LED thanks to my own stupidity and clumsiness. (forgot the resistor twice when testing the LED - duh, got it glued in crooked once).

At least I know what the problem is whereas Thomas81Z doesn’t yet. My problem is ME![D)][(-D]

Dave