I have finally got up the courage to kitbash a DMIR SD-M in my spare time. I have many questions, but first off, what tools am I going to need? I believe my starting point will be a Proto 2000 SD-9. Does Cannon and Co make the correct cab does anyone know offhand? I will leave my first post at these questions,but will further them as the project goes on. Max
Probably the best starting point for the cab would be an Atlas SD24 low-nose. Not sure how DMIR did the nose, straight or tapered. For a tapered one like a factory EMD job, the Atlas SD24 low nose would probably be the way to go. If the nose is straight, get out the razor saw and cut it down, just like 1:1 scale.
Most of the Cannon parts are for 35 line and later.
It was straight. I think I will just cut the nose in the middle, then make the top section the hood, such as was the case of the DMIR #316. Luckily I work with two SD-M’s so measurement will be easily had.
http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=79198&nseq=11 Going with the #301. Sorry Chrome wont let me hyperlink.
Making the link clickable
Bump.
Coborn,
You’re going to have your hands full starting with a Proto SD-9.
The DM&IR 301 appears to have started life as a late model SD-9 and has the “Geep” style taller battery boxes which makes the Cab sit higher above the long hood as well as two 48" fans over the radiator instead of the Proto’s 4 36" fans.
Mark Gosdin
The sill from an atlas SD24 has the taller battery box doors like the late model SD9s. You might have to fill in the holes for the raditator fans and drill new holes for the 48" fans. A plano fan hatch for a GP38 might be close.
The atlas SD26 cab would be a better fit since it has the split windshield. Various companies have made window inserts that make the single-piece windshield a split windshield but it seems none are in production.
Well I can always switch to a different number.
Back in the late-'70s - early-'80s when RMC ran their series on the Paducah Geeps the author told how he flat-topped the nose of his Geep to get the required profile. Unfortunately my copies of those issues are not readily available at this time but I seem to remember that he first cut the top from the short hood, then cut a piece from the remainder of the short hood to flesh out the required height and then spliced the top back onto the bottom giving a new flat topped low nosed short hood. He had a drawing showing his specs for these cuts.
Were I to set my N-Scale Seaboard and Western Virginia Railway in the 1980s I would have need of some chopped nose SD9s. Although this scenario is becoming increasingly unlikely as more modern diesels–ES44s from Fox Valley Models; SD70Aces from Kato–become available I might just sell these SD9s–I have a number of the Atlas units of 20 years ago–off to a (freellanced) shortline and I have kept these RMC articles in mind as a guide for the necessary surgery.
Lotsa luck on your surgery!