I am finally getting started on my first layout, which I have set in the late 1800s (or the golden era).
This layout is going to run two lines, one being a passenger train while the other will be logging/mining.
I’m finding it somewhat difficult to find engines in n-scale that properly represent this era.
I feel like many of the engines I’m seeing online for sale lack true representation of how dirty and gritty this era was. I understand I could go on to repaint an engine or two, but again this is going to be my first layout so I don’t want to be in over my head either.
The Bachman n-gauge 4-4-0 Pennsylvania (shown here http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/bac/bac11752.htm) is pretty cool, though I’d really like an array of engines to choose from, especially considering I’d like two different engines on my layout.
If anyone could help suggest some great locomotives from the golden age, that’d be great.
Unfortunately,N scale steamers choice is pretty dim,though slowly improving.New models do show up occasionally but get “sold out” in no time,thanks to the “limited run” policies manufacturers seem to enjoy.Athearn did offer a few 2-6-0’s and 2-8-0’s a while ago but I believe these are most if not all “sold out”.You could check Athearn’s website,if you’re lucky there might be a few left.
Your other solution is Ebay as older models do show up occasionally,mostly Minitrix and Arnold made.They’re good runners usually but certainly not DCC ready.Bachmann is another option,but they could be either pretty good or very bad…try before you buy.
The Atlas 2-6-0 is a good runner, after a little tinkering.
Model Power makes a 4-4-0, but I’ve heard it’s got pick-up issues (a problem with all 4-4-0s out there).
Bachmann’s 2-8-0 is a great runner, but you have to decide if it fits your layout.
And Bmann’s 4-6-0 looks & runs fine out of the box: swap the huge tender for a Bmann USRA short tender & stick in a better decoder (I did DZ125) and the slow speed creep is even better.
Wouldn’t be too hard to take a new Athearn 2-6-0 SP and strip and repaint the tender and cab.
I’m sorry to tell you this, but even in HO scale, considered the “most popular” scale, there is slim pickin’s for late 1800’s train equipment, especially locos.
Hunt and poske and check often is about all I can tell you.
You may have to resort to taking what you can find and buying several to re-paint or change #s on to complete a fleet.
THere are 4-4-0s and 4-6-0s from bachmann available here:
I’ll be sure to keep an eye out for different locomotives, and also if anyone can recommend a great reviewer’s site to see overall reviews of model trains that’d be awesome!
There’s so many to pick from, and with my experience level being so low I don’t know what to stay away from.
And BTW, I did come across this webpage which has amazing structures from the proper period, for anyone else who is interested. You can bet you’ll see some of these on my layout soon enough.
You’ve gotten a lot of information on what is available and where you might find it.
As to your desire for a weathered locomotive, most come looking new, like the real ones did. There are several weathering methods, powders and washes, which I understand are fairly easy. If you have a couple of old, inexpensive or other pieces you don’t care to much about, use them to pratice your weathering techiniques.
Although I also model the “golden era” - 1900 in my case - I have to disagree with “true representation of how dirty and gritty this era was”. From studying photos of the era, I have to conclude just the opposite. In very few other eras was there a like effort to keep the dirt and grittiness of life at bay. Perhaps the perception of dirt and grit in that era comes from today’s use of black-and-white photography to portray dirt and grit.
But study the photos, especially away from the main focus of the photo where one would expect to see things cleaned up, and see how neat, orderly, and clean things were kept. Labor was cheap, and lots of it was used to maintain an image of cleanliness and order. In an era where photographic advertising was very expensive, reputation based on appearances carried a lot more weight. Later eras’ junkyard appearance with parts and pieces strewn about, and overgrowth of vegetation was simply not acceptable for a profit-making, respectable concern.
Railroads were a very capital- and labor-intensive industry. Over 10% of the nation’s population worked for or in direct support of the railroads in 1900. Stock holders, investors, passengers, and shippers all needed to be impressed by appearances and operations. So passenger cars and locomotives were washed regularly, and were re-varnished every 2 years or so to maintain the paint. Locomotives and cabooses were normally assigned to the same crews for months to years on end. Helpers (wipers) were assigned to a crew at the terminals but often did not ride the train. They did take care of the e
Its do believe its Athearn that has a 2-6-0 advertised as ‘old style’… I have seen the Atlas 4-4-0 sitting next to a Model Power 2-6-0 in a display, wow what a difference in size. After finding the dinky little plastic transfer shaft on my B-mann 4-4-0 it ran nicely. Im sure whence properly broken in it will be a good little engine. Also as mentioned B-mann’s new 10 wheeler. I’m ot much of a team guy but this bugger has got my eye. Also maybe a little too knew, but Model Power makes a crisp looking 4-6-2 and 2-8-2, along with aforementioned 2-6-0, and 4-8-4. Have seen all in person and almost bought a CB&Q version on latter, but was confused and spent my 100 dollars on a different scale. Finally, one thing in life I regret.
A non-DCC loco is NOT a “piece of junk”, it just is run by a different controller…namely DC current controlling the track blocks it is running on. Each block is wired to control the track and thusly the loco/s running on it.
With DCC you can have fewer wiring blocks, simpler wiring and can control the individual locomotives rather than the current to the track to control the locomotive.
Sound is optional…I don’t “do” sound as they sound to “tinny” to me…especially the smaller scales. Some will swear by sound, but others are like me and don’t care for it. I also don’t feel it “worth the extra money”, as I would turn it off periodically-if i ever ran it anyway.
I have DCC because when I got back into the hobby some years ago I read about it and decided on the simple wiring and controlling the loco, not the track was my way to go. I have a very small layout {3.5 feet x 5.1 feet with 2 interconnected ovals, a 4 spur yard and a 2 spur engine facility}. I can control up to 3 locos going in any direction, speed or lights with essentially just 2 wires connected to the whole layout. I did add a couple of “feeder wires” to insure signal continuity as that is how DCC works…sending a computerized signal to a decoder in the loco you want to control. I have no