For steam engines…is there a dog out there that I need to watch out for?
I also know that some of the more expensive engines should be quiet and a work horse…but is there a brand out there under $100 that is considered pretty good? I am looking for both DC and DCC units.
In the $100 or less price range, shop carefully and look at either Bachmann Spectrum or IHC. Both have a large selection of good steam engines, with Bachmann edging out IHC in both detail and running abilities.
I would stay clear of IHC. I’ve got a 2-8-0 that runs OK & pulls fair, but I’ve also got a 4-8-2 Mountain that will not stay on the track or pull the hat off yer head. One the other hand I’ve got a BLI Mountain that will pull around 40 cars. Of course it ti sound equipped and about $300 worth. In the long run I would rather have a loco that I can run than one that takes up space at my roundhouse. Tweet.
Mike, I have three of the IHC Mountain steam engines and I think they are great. I haven’t had any issues with either of them. I have installed decoders in two of them and the job was easy. I also have engines by BLI and true they are better but the price is much higher also. I hope this helps, JM.
Thanks for that info. In order to clarify…My 6 year old son has a small ‘L’ shaped layout in his room (i.e both legs are 42" x 72"). I am also building an 8’ x 14’ ‘G’ shaped layout in the garage. They are both HO scale. His is DC and the larger one will be DCC.
He has a c. 1970’s Tyco 0-6-0 steam that runs great but can only pull 6 or so cars. Nothing like his Bachmann F9 that can pull 14 or so. I’m looking for a couple more steam engines for him that will let him pull more cars…but not break the bank in doing so.
Santa got him a Bachmann 0-6-0 for Christmas and he let me trial run it on the track while my son was out of the house one day…but it was loud and could barely get around the track with no cars on it. I was thinking a 2-8-0, 2-8-2 or 4-8-2 would pull better?
I am also checking out steam possibilities for him for the day we get the DCC layout done, which will be sometime in the Spring.
I figured $100 or less for his DC system now, but a little more for the DCC units later on.
As long as you stay with the Spectrum line, Bachmann is the way to go. Trainworld offers several models of DCC equipped locos under $100 and DC versions of the same for about $20 less. If you want to spend a little more, you can get a sound equipped BLI Hudson from them for $130. You won’t find a better bargain than that.
The number of drivers does not necessarily correlate directly with pulling power. Motor, gear train and weight have a lot more bearing. I have a pair of ICH premier Hudsons (6 drivers) that pull very well and an IHC premier mountain (very similar in their version) with 8 drivers that pulls slightly less weight on grade and exactly the same on the level.
A BLI Hudson easily should pull 50% more then either of these. Of course you would reserve that engine for your own layout.
All in all I like the IHC steamers even thought the detailing is pretty generic. They run reliably and well. You can sometimes buy a pair for $150 (DC only) so the price is decent too.
There are a couple different versions of the Tyco 0-6-0, which one do you have, the one with or without a separate tender? Metal or plastic boiler? With the figures above, I have to ask, how steep are your grades on this layout? Especially after the statement about the Bachmann loco not being able to pull anything. Also, how sharp are your curves? This will be a determining factor on choosing a longer wheelbase steam loco. With sharp curves, an eight drivered loco will be a real problem just staying on the track.
To your original question, the Tyco locomotives are now sold under the name “Mantua Classics” now owned by Model Power. They are slowly releasing them and they advertise that the price is lower than under the original Mantua name. If you’re a tinkerer, you may want to look into the Tyco locomotives on Ebay.
For a younger child to handle they are ideal as they don’t have a lot of fine detail that can break off. They are not the greatest pullers in the world but more than up to the task that you have in mind.
I think that for an initial foray into steam that a youngster will use, an IHC locomotive is a reasonable choice. They are fairly consistent in terms of reliability, pull quite well for their sophisitication and cost, easily decodered if that becomes a desired end-state, and can be easily replaced if it gets knocked about too much.
For the same amount, though, trainworld.com offers Bachmann Spectrum (their top line) Consolidation 2-8-0’s for little more than a song.
Separate tender. My dad got it for me when I was about 8 or 10. Around '72 - '74. My son’s layout is all Life-Like Power Loc with 18" & 22" radius curves. I use the 22" curves right out of the tangent (kinda like an easement). It’s all on level grade…no rise.
The Bachmann 0-6-0 also has a separate tender but it’s tender doesn’t have a coupler on it that attaches to the engine…just a plastic ‘peg’ that fits under the engine. Don’t know if that helps narrow it down. I got it on e-bay and it looks like it has no running time or if it does, very little.
I just bought two of the Spectrum 4-8-2 Heavy Mountains for $77.50 each – they’re $200 list, many places sell for $160 to $170. I dunno how they do it, but I’m not complaining!
That Tyco 0-6-0 only pulling 6 or so cars on a level track sounds pretty low, like you have some roll resistance problems with the cars or possibly the loco’s tender. I’m not familiar with the current Bachmann 0-6-0 as far as pulling power, but if it’s the same vintage as the Tyco, they weren’t great pullers. The main difference you describe above in the tender configuration is a difference in electrical pickup, the Tyco used the tender for one rail and the loco for the other rail. The drawbar (coupling between the loco and tender) is an insulator material. The Tyco is definately “old tech” but a good, reliable engine that’s easy to maintain. They do need cleaning, especially the pickup wheels, more than the later models.
As far as the radius, I’d stay with the shorter wheelbase locos on the 18 inch curves. An eight drivered steam loco will probably go around the curves, but you’ll definately need to keep the speed down and it will find the smallest flaws in the trackwork, especially on the curves.
The only Rivarossi equipment I’m familiar with are the ones of about the same vintage as your Tyco.
G’day, Y’all, Out of curiosity, are the cars the old 0-6-0 is having a tough time with those that came with the engine? My 1963 era Mantua 0-6-0 pulled pretty well last time I ran it years ago. My Mantua General 4-4-0, however, could barely pull its own shadow when riding on the old, metal trucks. Three passenger cars of the 1860 period and a 28-foot boxcar were about all it was good for. But when I hooked a bunch of newer cars with axles and trucks made from slippery engineering plastics, it walked off with (as I recall) all 14 I owned with hornhook couplers. Wow! What a difference technology makes!
[#ditto] A friend of mine used some of the smaller units. When I was operating his layout I would seek them out for my trains. They were great. These were 2-6-0 and 2-6-2 types.
I can also [#ditto] those who recommended the Bachmann Spectrums. I have several 2-8-0s that have been great. I know people with the 2-10-0 and 4-6-0 that seem to be similar.
This sounds like a job for one of those reamer tools and some powdered graphite lubricant. It will make those old cars roll much more like the newer ones you mentioned.
The cars my son runs are all old cars from the 70’s except for 5 Life Like cars he got with a new set in September. All are not the greatest. They’re all 40 footers and have plastic trucks and wheel sets.
It could also be that the engine needs a good cleaning/lube. I put it in the box when I was 10 and didn’t take it back out until this year…so it’s been in storage for 30+ years. Of course…it might help to find out how and where to clean… I’m thinking of getting that engine maintenance book that MR has put out.
I have an old Mantua 0-4-0 that has the insulated drawbar and connected tender…but the drawbar is damaged and makes my tender run at an angle. Once it takes a curve it starts to derail. Anyone know where I can get a new drawbar?
The reason I ask about the Rivarossi is that I have a chance to get a Rivarossi 2-8-4 Berkshire for $60. I was wondering if it was worth it.
If the drawbar is just bent or twisted, believe it or not, you may be able to straighten it. Heat up an iron (the clothes type) to the cotton setting. Wrap a damp paper towel around it and set it on a firm surface. Press the iron down on it in such a way that the iron forces it straight, hold for a second or two, then remove it. Carefully unwrap the drawbar and set it down to cool and dry.